Flickering headlights and all Cabin lights during idle
 

My headlights and cabin lights have suddenly started to flicker at idle. I've had both the battery and alternated tested and both came back normal. Not sure what the problem is, any insight?

No other issues such as crank, power, etc.

2006 2.2L

Maybe a loose connection, fusebox halves, or ground.

I'd throw a voltmeter across the power connection on the dash below the heater controls, to monitor the voltage while stationary and mobile.

failing alternator, low idle.

Yes. Alternator is probably on its way out. Mine did the same thing for a year before the alternator revealed itself as the culprit. I was gonna say something but wanted one of the all knowing gurus to confirm my assumption before leading you astray lol. If you replace the alternator give it a Happy New battery to charge too!!

He said the battery and alternator both tested good.

Loose grounds

Maybe I'm just too old, but I can't think of a scenario that the charging system could check out good when the lights are flickering at idle.

The idle is too low for the alternator the provide sufficient juice. That could be that the alternator is not functioning properly at a normal idle or that the idle is lower than it should be, for some reason. There is a tachometer right on the dashboard, it should be steady.

The description that it is always flickering at idle and always clears up a speed means that it is not intermittent.

Here's a video of it

Also it's does not go away with speed I was wrong


Also test receipt photos:

http://i65.tinypic.com/2q0vlfb.jpg

http://i66.tinypic.com/scvwwn.jpg

http://i64.tinypic.com/2582vit.jpg

Battery voltage is low (12.2) - and CCA is low as well. with the voltage dropping below 10V on starting (it actually dropped below 9V according to the graph), I'd replace the battery.

I'm not sure it's the battery directly. Also there is no graphic for the battery ameperage as the only graphic provided is for the starter (cranking). The guy said the amerpage of the battery would be lower since it is an older battery, but I didn't know the battery would have an effect on the lights directly when the car is running, I'd assume it would be the alternator. I'm almost positive the lights don't flicker when the car is turned off and they stay on for just a few minutes before shutting off automatically.


Does that still sound like the battery to you?


Also note the idle vs load amperage 14.86 idle 14.00 load?

As I said your battery voltage, cranking amps, are low, and as it is started, the voltage drops too low. That indicates the battery is on its last legs. Note one of the slips indicates it needs recharging, which can also indicate the battery needs replacement. You may well have two problems. I'd replace the battery and take it.from there.

Recharge the battery as advised, then check the starter again. Could be bad starter, bad battery, bad ground.

Those boxes look good, but are not always correct. Looks like a bad battery by the numbers, but maybe not.

Now that I see the video and the graph for the starter test, and the numbers for the results.
The battery is headed south , dying and not recharging, been there denied that, had to get new battery installed while on vacation, boy was my wife PO'd lost a few hours waiting for the AAA guy!

Out of curiosity, just how old is the battery?

I've had the car for three years and I have not replaced the battery

At best you have a battery at the end of it's warranty at worst you have a 10 year old battery (that was a 6 year battery).

Battery replaced problem still persistent.


Are there instructions on checking grounds prior to buying an alternator?

Old battery was 11/10 sticker date

Hey Steve. Problem with that link. All the pictures are not coming up. May be something to do with the sites recent overhaul.

Yep, that's one of the issues I was talking about here. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/fron...e5/#post817290

I can't tell if it's flickering anymore

right on man - I'm going thru that thread and trying to fix up the links so they show up ok. Takes a bit of time - should be done in a few more mins. :)

update - done. The images should show.

I know I'm old fashion, but years ago that flickering could only be the regulator, which used to be a separate component. Now its integrated into the alternator and consists of diodes, but it still has the same job, controlling the charge rate, based on the battery charge state. If you could find the right mechanic, he/she could try replacing the control diodes, but likely you will not find anyone willing to do anything but swap the entire alternator.

I'm leaning towards the alternator OR grounds. Sometimes a bearing in the alternator can go, and also cause similar symptoms, in addition to the built in regulator.

I'm lucky in that there is an excellent electrical repair shop that has worked miracles on alternators and starters here for me over the years. But when my HHR starter died, it wasn't worthwhile repairing it was in such bad shape.

Based on the video in post #22, I guess the new battery fixed it.

To be exact the BCM is the regulator, That's why us old fogeys get confused measuring the alternator output. The diodes are the same as old timey alternators, they change the AC to DC.

Close enough though, there is no replaceable regulator.

Update: it seems the battery did fix it. At first the problem was still there but I let the car run for awhile and it is problem free. I'll let you all know the updates in the coming days if anything changes.

Thanks for your help.

Also this is the same car that had issues with the BCM, key deprogramming, and blower motor almost exactly one year ago:

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...g-55877/page3/

Yet another INTERMITTENT electrical HHR issue, which *might* go away after replacing battery, alternator, regulator, etc but it WILL come back in time due to BAD RELAYS, in this case the BCM relay (there's only one) may be worn out, try swapping relays around and see if there is an improvement. Relays are not digital, they have moving parts that wear out over time, build up carbon or oxidation on the points and cause intermittent issues that will drive you nuts. $20 will fix it. This is the FIRST thing to check.

that was solved! He put a new battery in. Bad relays are not as frequent as you think. Please stop posting in every thread, one is enough.