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Just confirming what I was reading on the other thread about a 'factory foglight install' using factory components and wiring the hot to the relay in the fuse box in the engine compartment. Since it was the first sunny, cool day here in the NE, it was a perfect time to update the panel to include the fog lights. Actually installing the lights wasn't quite as easy as it seems... took lots of wrangling before they snapped in place! Followed the directions for the wire hookup in the fuse panel, flipped the panel back over and carefully set it back on the sockets. It felt like everything bedded right, but when I turned the key, no love at the starter. I had power seemingly everywhere else (except headlights, which I'm guessing are in the same circuit as the starter). So.. take it all apart again and try to re-bed the boards? Where is the circuit for the starter on this (2010 LS) - I want to make sure I pay particular attention to that area.
If this was 1970 they might be on the same circuit. The starter is wired directly to the battery. The starter solenoid is wired to the starter relay the other side of the relay gets a signal from the BCM.
If this was 1970 they might be on the same circuit. The starter is wired directly to the battery. The starter solenoid is wired to the starter relay the other side of the relay gets a signal from the BCM.
I am suspecting you messed with the wrong relay.
Anything is possible; I marked the relay according to the "chart" on the top (underneath) of the fuse panel. When time allows tomorrow and daylight I'll double check. Gotta take it apart again anyway...
I'll call this an 80% win. Got the car started after pulling apart the fuse center several times. The final time was when I absolutely did not want to do what I did, but it was the only way to ensure the connector blocks were seating on the relay/fuse panel, and that was to release them all from the base and manually seat each one. That worked as each wire block will seat flush with the relay panel underneath when they are bedded properly. So.. car starts, I didn't seem to lose anything (except a small screwdriver I was using to release those plastic clips... it'll fall out somewhere, I'm sure) but the fogs don't work. But I'm not panicking.. the relay only had one wire going to it (and the second that I put on), and I'm thinking there needs to be a third (and maybe 4th) for trigger wires. I don't think I want to pull apart that panel again, so I'm probably going to just run a power line to a switch on the dash (if I can find one that will fit in the factory spot that's already drilled ��). Before I do that I'll talk to my mechanic who has more electrical knowledge than me... might be something as simple as a programming sequence for the BCM.
I posted some diagrams that seem to have entered the ozone layer.
start relay is 34 fog relay is 54 The yellow wire goes to the BCM (could go to switch with some additional wiring to be legal i.e. no hi beams)
I thought you said earlier that the harnesses existed on both ends? If so, you should not need to do anything in the fuse box. Did you just confuse me?
Thanks for that Don. No, the only "harness" I had was the switch harness in the dash. The under hood fuse block/panel had/has the relay and fuse, but there is no other harness out to the lights. I installed OE lights and ran the power and ground wires up to the fuse block, grounding the line to the frame point (actually, one of the studs next to the "jump start" stud), and the power line to the underside of the relay. But, I'm guessing on the relay where that wire should actually be. As I mentioned, it only had one wire - a black wire - to that particular section (where the relay plugs). So I guessed off that other thread where the poster showed which stud the power needed to be drawn from. But his was an '06/07 - my relay and fuse are in a different place than were his was shown. The relay shouldn't change, but you never know. I did not see a yellow wire anywhere near the fog relay, so I'm going to assume that wire is the power from the BCM and switch.
The posts are marked 86,85,30,87 on the fuse box and/or the relay. Those are standard relay numbers.
If you wanted to avoid paying for programming it would be fairly easy to make the high beams turn the fogs off. I think one of the threads on the subject illustrates.
10-13-2018, 05:37 PM
