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Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
I think it would not only be helpful for myself, but I think for future reference to anyone coming onto the site, we could have a thread like this. Could someone post the list of the complete parts needed for the Front End Rebuild? I've been told by more than one talented mechanic here in this group that it makes more sense to just get a full kit of parts and rebuild both sides while I'm at it. I think that's really the best policy, since I know I'm going to have mine for a very long time, and seems that it wasn't driven with nearly as much care as I do.
Once we can get a complete shopping list type layout, I can blank out this section, so that the list can remain, and it will be very easy to find this for future needs.
I'm sure this will become more and more needed as they're now all getting up there in 10+ years.
Something like this would be really helpful:
1) Individual Part List:
Stabilizer Bar Link - OEM# ___________
Outer Tie Rod End - OEM# ___________
Left Control Arm - OEM#___________
Right Control Arm - OEM# __________
CA Bushing - OEM# ____________
(just as example)....
one last question I have regarding the replacements. I believe there were two people (or more) who recommended the Stamped Aluminum Control Arms over the Stamped Steel. However, when I go to Rock Auto, they show Stamped Aluminum as Standard, and Stamped Steel as Heavy Duty (see pic). Could someone help explain this? Is the Stamped Steel more likely to bend or break or come apart?
I appreciate it!
one last question I have regarding the replacements. I believe there were two people (or more) who recommended the Stamped Aluminum Control Arms over the Stamped Steel. However, when I go to Rock Auto, they show Stamped Aluminum as Standard, and Stamped Steel as Heavy Duty (see pic). Could someone help explain this? Is the Stamped Steel more likely to bend or break or come apart?
I appreciate it!
We call it cast aluminum, not stamped aluminum. Every HHR that I have ever seen has cast aluminum LCA's. I was told that the stamped steel were for cobalts. I replaced the ball joint and rear bushings in my LCA's. This is a tough task. I used a grinder to grind the rivet heads almost comletely off, then drilled a hole in the center so the top caps came off without damaging the aluminum LCA. I used a 3/8" bolt and an arbor press to push the pins through. I started with a 3/4" long 3/8" bolt , when I bottomed out, then I went to a 1" long bolt. Dont start with the longer bolt because there is a risk of it shooting out, ask me how I know. It takes an incredible amount of force to get these pins out. The rear bushing I took a piece of 3" long pipe and turned it down on the lathe to 2.3" diameter. I used this in the arbour press to get the rear bushings out. They are in there really really tight as well.
We recommend RockAuto because they give our members a discount. You may of course shop anywhere and shipping is a definite consideration.
AC Delco , Moog are good
I prefer to rebuild my LCA’s new rear bushings and ball joints from Moog.
if you are talking SS then you must go with GM LCA’s as the ball joints are different size stub and only in their parts .
As a general rule, the Aluminum ones were standard, as stated above.
If there is an impact, the castings will not bend. The stampings will. So, impacts will create more havoc with bearings and such. I have also seen shocks bent in impacts to the wheel area with aluminum arms. Weak links are what they are.
That said, for a simple rebuild, don't downgrade. Go with the aluminum arms
As a general rule, the Aluminum ones were standard, as stated above.
If there is an impact, the castings will not bend. The stampings will. So, impacts will create more havoc with bearings and such. I have also seen shocks bent in impacts to the wheel area with aluminum arms. Weak links are what they are.
That said, for a simple rebuild, don't downgrade. Go with the aluminum arms
Definitely will! I was only confused because Rock Auto has the Stamped Steel listed as the heavy duty and the Aluminum as the standard. That seemed to kind of contradict what I was originally told here, so that’s why i became confused about that. It’s going down on my list that way!
I must have replaxed rear bushings and ball joints on 5 pairs of LCA's, but never replaced the front bushing. Has anyone changed the front bushing, if so how did you remove and replace it?
I want to invest my 5 cents ...
But "Front End Rebuild" is very vague, not specific. Maybe I didn’t translate correctly? As I understand it, you want to repair the front of the car. Therefore, I will simply list what I myself did at different times.
1. Rear silent blocks of the front suspension arms - only change a pair (if you will change the front suspension arms assembly, give preference to aluminum, as the guys advise);
2. Stabilizer bushings and stabilizer links - a weak spot among hippos, change pair and choose the strongest. I use Korean links "CTR CLT-19", this is for Camry, but they are durable like reinforced concrete;
3. Steering ends - cheap, can be changed without waiting for their death, for prevention;
4. Brakes - an eternal headache for the owner of a hippo. Change brake discs and brake pads at the same time. Buy a repair kit for calipers and change it on both sides. Choose repair kits that include steel rails. If you do not have a shortage of money - you can buy new brake calipers, it is more expensive, but you will save a little on the cost of work. At the same time, change the brake hoses - also prophylactically even if they are whole. After replacing the brake parts, change the brake fluid too;
5. If the mileage is more than 100,000 miles - I recommend changing the automatic transmission oil and automatic transmission filter;
6. Radiator - remove it and flush it inside and out, inspect the radiator hoses. If the hoses are damaged or they are simply old or you see signs of coolant leakage, replace the hoses. At the same time, replace the coolant so not to approach twice;
7. While the radiator is removed - inspect the engine, look for smudges of engine oil. If you find - change the appropriate gaskets. Perhaps you will replace both the oil itself and the oil filter. Also not to approach twice;
8. The highlight on the cake is the air filter. Replace him too;
9. Check the rubber boots on the CV joints. They should not have holes. You will find holes - an urgent replacement of rubber boots and plentiful greasing of CV joints. But, I am afraid, if the holes are old - the CV joints are already dead and a replacement will be required.
That’s all I did at different times. You also have all this. You can do it right away - you will spend money, but you will buy peace of mind for a couple of years. You can do as problems arise - also a good strategy.
All parts for replacement I buy at Rockavto. You do not need to know all the numbers. The quality of the parts at Rocavto is very good and the selection is great.
But if you want to know OEM numbers. Go to https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.c...ar-parts.html/
Convenient to use. You see the part in the picture. Below its OEM number and replacement number.
