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Help with ecm/o2 wiring

Old Jun 29, 2022 | 02:36 PM
  #1  
NightmareHHR's Avatar
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From: VT
Help with ecm/o2 wiring

Good afternoon everyone! I'm currently in CEL hell! I'm getting a B1S2 heater resistance code on my 2011 with a 2.2. And want to know if anyone has a wiring diagram for the engine controls. I have already replaced the sensor and checked the wires for anything obvious to no avail. This car loves to illuminate the damn CEL and this is the latest issue.
Some back-story: After a bunch of other issues(car was a repo... so...) I had gotten rear o2 codes and found the flex pipe was cracked. I replaced the complete pipe/converter assembly, including both o2 sensors. Then after a few drive cycles the resistance code came up. Figuring it was an ebay quality part issue I ordered another one just to have the same issue. So at this point I want to do some real troubleshooting without the added expense of wiring diagrams on a pay site.
Thanks for any help everyone!!!
Old Jun 29, 2022 | 02:54 PM
  #2  
RJ_RS_SS_350's Avatar
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What codes are you getting?
Old Jun 29, 2022 | 03:36 PM
  #3  
NightmareHHR's Avatar
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From: VT
Originally Posted by RJ_RS_SS_350
What codes are you getting?
p0054
Old Jun 29, 2022 | 04:13 PM
  #4  
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From: Fredericksburg,VA
Did you check the fuse? The one marked "EXH" #33 underhood.
Does the #2 O2 sensor wiring have a splice in it?
What brand is it? If it is Bosch replace it with NGK/NTK..

The wiring is simple, the heater goes to the fuser and the other wires go to the ECM. Doesn't have an actual ground it is "control low".
The code is set when the low control is not within specs.
Low control for the heater is the gry/wht wire, the pink/blk wire goes to the fuse.
If the wires got spliced in it is possible that the person thought the gry/wht wire and the tan/wht wire both go to ground or got them backwards.
The P0054 test runs once every drive cycle after the engine has been off for 10 hours and there are no other codes.
Old Jun 29, 2022 | 04:21 PM
  #5  
NightmareHHR's Avatar
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From: VT
Thanks Donbrew for the reply. I checked all the fuses, or at least thought I did. I was under the impression that the fuse also supplied the evap as well. But again its just from reading here.... anyways.. I will recheck that exact fuse. There are no splices anywhere on the harness. It hasn't had any type of damage either(melted to exh or chaffed). It is an off brand sensor, which was my initial suspicion and why I replaced with another one... well... not gonna admit stupidity. Lol. I'll check the fuse as stated and reply back. Thanks again.
Old Jun 29, 2022 | 04:28 PM
  #6  
donbrew's Avatar
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Right, the fuse is a long shot. More Likely no name sensor.
Old Jun 29, 2022 | 07:37 PM
  #7  
Oldblue's Avatar
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Agreed most likely cheap inoperative O2 sensor

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0054
Old Jun 29, 2022 | 09:52 PM
  #8  
greg8453's Avatar
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From: Davison MI
Do you have a weigh to measure current. A current clamp around the harness at the sensor will show if it's pulling enough to make the PCM happy. Your eBay parts may not be up to snuff. I'd try an OEM.
Old Jun 30, 2022 | 12:55 AM
  #9  
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What codes did you have before you replaced the flex pipe? Any chance you still have the old sensors?
Old Jun 30, 2022 | 04:06 PM
  #10  
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From: VT
Thanks everyone for the responses... sorry for delay on my end. I'm a postal carrier so time to myself is at a premium still. I did recheck fuse 33 (with a dvom) and all is well. So I'm right back to thinking this is a cheap part issue.
my original codes were P0136 and then the the lovely P0420. But once I determined the flex pipe had a crack (it eventually had gotten much louder on acceleration) I figured that was the issue. So I purchased a comple flex pipe and the sensor kit on ebay(2 different sellers). The sensors were very inexpensive (cheap) but I figured what the hell, its not our daily so should be fine. Lesson learned.
NGK sensor is ordered I'll post back once its installed.

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