HELP my 2006 HHR electronics are on the blink
HELP my 2006 HHR electronics are on the blink
My 2006 HHR has always had a battery issue--I thought. When I got the new battery I was told I had to drive it a bit a day to not have it die out. THEN, despite that it died out. Next guy said it didn't need a new battery or charge--just a fuse. Three days later, it's deader than a doornail and in the garage. Do you think it needs to be rewired? If so, how much do you think that costs? I live in Las Vegas, and I hope someone knows a great HHR specialist other than the Chevy dealership, but if I must take it to them, so be it.
Will be having it towed to the Chevy dealership or wherever may be suggested by someone here.
Thanks a bunch
Will be having it towed to the Chevy dealership or wherever may be suggested by someone here.
Thanks a bunch
Thanks. Gonna take it to the Chevy Dealership in Vegas for the fix. Hopefully, I won't have to take a second out on the house. They see me coming from a mile away sometimes. Have a good one!!
I’m thinking the under hood fuse box needs to be tightened up and the ground wires cleaned and tightened.
many aftermarket items like phone charger or Garmin navigation devices left plugged into the power ports?
many aftermarket items like phone charger or Garmin navigation devices left plugged into the power ports?
In Vegas you have such a shop.
Since it sounds like "some guy walking down the street" has been doing the diagnosing, I would look at the alternator. Maybe LED lights stuck on. Maybe a door sensor stuck.
It is true that the battery will run down if not used for a time.
What fuse? I can't think of one that might do this.
Is the CheckEngineLight on?
If this started out of the blue, what happened just before?
It is true that the battery will run down if not used for a time.
What fuse? I can't think of one that might do this.
Is the CheckEngineLight on?
If this started out of the blue, what happened just before?
There are 4 or 5 reasons for a battery to repeatedly go dead.
1. Bad battery
2. Bad alternator
3. Bad connections/cables between alternator and battery
4. Parasitic drain
5. Abuse(it wouldn't start, I cranked it 100 times)
Seems like #5 can be ruled out?
#1-#3 get a free battery load test and a free charging system test at the auto parts store. Check connections. Check battery terminal clamps(they have been known to crack). The cable between the alternator and the starter has what appears to be a fusible link, remove 1 end of the cable and test for continuity.
#4 remove the negative battery terminal from the post. With an ammeter that can measure in milliamps, test between terminal clamp and post, recording the result. Remove a fuse, test again. Record the result and reinsert the fuse. Repeat with every fuse. In this way you can find which fuse(s) are in the circuit(s) that has the parasitic drain.
1. Bad battery
2. Bad alternator
3. Bad connections/cables between alternator and battery
4. Parasitic drain
5. Abuse(it wouldn't start, I cranked it 100 times)
Seems like #5 can be ruled out?
#1-#3 get a free battery load test and a free charging system test at the auto parts store. Check connections. Check battery terminal clamps(they have been known to crack). The cable between the alternator and the starter has what appears to be a fusible link, remove 1 end of the cable and test for continuity.
#4 remove the negative battery terminal from the post. With an ammeter that can measure in milliamps, test between terminal clamp and post, recording the result. Remove a fuse, test again. Record the result and reinsert the fuse. Repeat with every fuse. In this way you can find which fuse(s) are in the circuit(s) that has the parasitic drain.
Been in business 20 years
https://paulsautoservicelv.com/home/
And this shop
https://www.docautorepairs.com/
Note they are electrical automotive specialists
https://paulsautoservicelv.com/home/
And this shop
https://www.docautorepairs.com/
Note they are electrical automotive specialists


