So, I have searched the threads and I cannot for the life of me find out the issue. It's a noise. Yes I've searched the sticky on noises but I cant seem to find anything.
So, I have a noise that is kind of a thunking- knock noise coming from (it sounds like) the front drives side area(wheel, suspension, steering). It started only happening when hitting the brakes to slow down regularly. It was repetitive from the moment hitting the brakes until full stop. It doesn't do it any other times. Not hitting bumps, acceleration, none of them. But now, I can hear it going nearly all the time anytime above 15mph. If sounds like the tire is about to wobble off the car, but it doesn't rattle the whole car. I can feel it in the brake pedal and a little on the floorboards.
I jacked it up, took grabbed the drives tire at 3&9, and wiggled it. Looking at the drives tire face on, when I pulled at 3, nothing. When I pushed at 3, it would pop once. And it was visible looking at the tire as it would "pop" with the sound. I've looked at the bushings and ball joint, I can't see any walking on any. I can't find the source at all. This is our only vehicle right now and I don't feel safe driving it not knowing what's the issue.
If my issue is in the forum somewhere and I just didn't find it, I apologize in advance and appreciate being pointed in the right direction. Thank you
D Miller
Proud 09 HHR owner

 

Welcome to the site, seems like a loose bearing hub. I recommend you replace them in pairs, and torque them to spec. When you remove the brake calipers ensure the slide pins are cleaned and properly lubricated.

 

to the forums!

Don't mean to be obvious, but how about loose lug nuts. 100 lbs./ft.

 

Car in park, try rolling the front tires by hand. If the tire rolls but the body does not move you have bad LCAs.

 

This good thing about this vid is he says to set the emergency brake. That necessary step often gets omitted from the instructions.

The bad is, 1st he says bad lca's, then he says bad bushings without specifying which ones. He should just say bad control arm rear bushings.

 

I had a 'clunk' that i finally reproduced by opening the drivers door and moving it up and down sitting at the curb with engine off. It was sway bar bushing bolt was a bit loose. Tightened it down a 1/2 turn and it went away, then came back after a week or so. Ended up using locktite on the threads to keep it in place. on my Land Rover, the caliper bracket bolt disappeared and the caliper would thump against the inside of the rim. replaced bolt, even over tightened it and lost it again.. Locktite to the rescue and it has been fine for 4 years. Never did find the bolt that fell out....never seen it happen before or since.

 

So, I need to disclose a bit of information to maybe figure this out. I've done the following to the car:
- 5 years ago, I replaced drivers wheel hub and both rear shocks.
My ex and I separated, left the car with her for about a year before getting it back (got custody of our twins, only had a bike). The car was in ruins. Could not drive it for feeling like wheels were going to fall off. I looked underneath and found the bolt for the big rubber bushing on drives LCA was almost falling off completely.
- Replaced LCA including lower ball joint, outer tie rod ends, sway bar links and brake pads for both sides and the passengers wheel hub.
- Replaced starter (it was drawing power when ignition was engaged but wasn't spinning starter)
All of that was about 1˝ years ago. Since then I've had the Brake, check engine, tcm, airbag lights on instrument panel. Only codes I've gotten were for camshaft sensor and thermostat. I changed one of the camshaft sensors, still have code(still need to replace the other).
When the shaking started it would only happen when decelerating from highway speeds and accompanied with that knocking/rattling sound at that time. I pulled the drivers wheel off and found one of the slider pins on the caliper was seized. So I replaced the caliper bracket and slider pins and it seemed to straighten up for about a week.
Then the shaking came back, with the knocking/rattling happening intermittently while driving, though more often when driving turned slightly to the right. I've pulled both front wheels and checked everything, only thing I find is that popping sound when I wiggle the drivers wheel left/right. I did put my torque wrench on the big rubber bushing bolt of LCA and got about ˝ a turn. No use.
Now, it's pulling very hard to the right. So much so that if you even think about letting tension off the steering wheel when going down the road, it will put you in the ditch before you even know what's going on.
I thank everyone who has so far answered and those who may still and I apologize for the long posts. But I need to get this taken care of. Like I mentioned, I'm a single dad of twin girls and this is my only vehicle. I can't afford another vehicle right now, really can't even afford this repair but I can't work without it and the problems just snowball from that point. So hopefully we can figure this out. I guess it could still be a bad hub but I don't know. I loved this car when my ex and I first bought it used. Ever since I got it back from her though, it's been an ever increasing headache. I want my old HHR back! Thanks again

 

Clues about the LCA’s bushing bolts , the torque is 74 ft lbs and then 180 degrees tighter, your explanation indicates the LCA’s are shot, they should be replaced in pairs , but you state you replaced only the drivers side.
hubs should also be changed in pairs the pulling to the right could be the main problem and the passenger side lca the cause

 

5 years is long enough to wear out again.

 

I changed the drives hub alone, when I changed the other hub I also changed the LCA with ball joints, outer tie rod ends and sway bar end links for both sides, about 1˝ years ago