Key FOB Issue
Are we looking for parts to throw at the car?
Why not just find out what is broken then fix it?
I didn't mean a broken RCDLR, I meant a programing problem.
The fobs work something like garage door openers, a rolling code that changes everytime it is used. There are something like 10,000 different codes. If 1 fob sits in the house and the other is used there is a chance that they may get out of sync with the car.
However, the lock motors could be a problem, the lock rods could be binding/broken, the wiring to the doors could be bad, the fuses could be bad, the BCM could be a problem.
Does the remote start work, does the panic button work, do you hear any clicking at any of the doors, does the hatch unlock.
Why not just find out what is broken then fix it?
I didn't mean a broken RCDLR, I meant a programing problem.
The fobs work something like garage door openers, a rolling code that changes everytime it is used. There are something like 10,000 different codes. If 1 fob sits in the house and the other is used there is a chance that they may get out of sync with the car.
However, the lock motors could be a problem, the lock rods could be binding/broken, the wiring to the doors could be bad, the fuses could be bad, the BCM could be a problem.
Does the remote start work, does the panic button work, do you hear any clicking at any of the doors, does the hatch unlock.
Both FOBs worked intermittently late 2013 (even the one with very little use). All funcntons were spotty. Even after replacing batteries in both the results were the same. All contacts for buttons / battery clips were in tact. Car battery died over that winter and wasn't discovered until spring 2014. Car battery was only 21 months old. Replaced free by Advanced Auto Parts warranty. Think the ignition switch / shiffter problem helped drain the battery. Wouldn't even register any sign of charge life at the store.
Completely dead batteries tend to kill the RCDLR programing. Needs GM Tech2 re flash.
Sorry, the solution is to take it to a GM shop and tell them exactly the problem, you will have to pay for it so don't get all up in faces. It is not their fault, the computer forgot it's firmware because the power was removed for an extended period of time.
Expect blank looks. I had somewhat the same problem with my 2008 that had a TSB for my problem.
Often replacing the batteries in the fobs is what breaks the solder joints. You MUST push the battery out with NO upward force.
BTW, most Advance/Zone/Pep have a fob tester on the sales counter. Just walk up and press a button, free. The batteries are only good for a few years, even without use.
Sorry, the solution is to take it to a GM shop and tell them exactly the problem, you will have to pay for it so don't get all up in faces. It is not their fault, the computer forgot it's firmware because the power was removed for an extended period of time.
Expect blank looks. I had somewhat the same problem with my 2008 that had a TSB for my problem.
Often replacing the batteries in the fobs is what breaks the solder joints. You MUST push the battery out with NO upward force.
BTW, most Advance/Zone/Pep have a fob tester on the sales counter. Just walk up and press a button, free. The batteries are only good for a few years, even without use.
Hello all and greetings from Kentucky
I've got a 2007 HHR, 5 sp manual transmission, no remote start, but a lot of bells and whistles. Bought used from the dealer, (one owner who was tired of shifting). I love love my "little grape". I drive it everyday to work, town, wherever. Can actually get an entire set of car seats in it and still get 30 mpg.
But man, this sounds so familiar. One of the fobs always worked better than the other. Then, both quit working altogether. New batteries...nothing...programmed again...nothing. So, bought the receiver to replace it but the original one is NOT TO BE FOUND. Everything we can find directs us to the top area of the doorpost between side doors on passenger side....nope, not there. We've looked in the roof around the sunroof switch area....nope, not there. We've looked in the rear side near the fuel spout...nope, no there. Has anybody had any luck in finding this little bugger?

Help me Obiwan
But man, this sounds so familiar. One of the fobs always worked better than the other. Then, both quit working altogether. New batteries...nothing...programmed again...nothing. So, bought the receiver to replace it but the original one is NOT TO BE FOUND. Everything we can find directs us to the top area of the doorpost between side doors on passenger side....nope, not there. We've looked in the roof around the sunroof switch area....nope, not there. We've looked in the rear side near the fuel spout...nope, no there. Has anybody had any luck in finding this little bugger?


Help me Obiwan
I have no idea where the receiver might be, but....... Be aware that the fobs have an issue we have often seen other than the broken battery old-down problem on the motherboard - the carbon contacts on thekey pad do wear out and a replacement case complete with a new key pad are available at various auto parts stores.
The typical symptoms in that case are having to press harder and harder on the keypad. Sometimes cleaning the contacts on the internal board as well as the carbon contacts on the pad with alcohol will get it working again. But the pads do wear out, just like an old tv remote.
The typical symptoms in that case are having to press harder and harder on the keypad. Sometimes cleaning the contacts on the internal board as well as the carbon contacts on the pad with alcohol will get it working again. But the pads do wear out, just like an old tv remote.
It is not your problem, but to answer the question : the RCDLR lives under the bump in the headliner next to the mirror.
I bet that you have remote start and don't known it. Try the Search box for most answers.
I bet that you have remote start and don't known it. Try the Search box for most answers.


