Keyless entry quit working?
 

I recently ran down the battery on my SS when I left it parked for over a week with the radar detector on. When I trickle-charged the battery back up it started fine a few hours later, but now neither of the keyfobs function. :roll: What would cause this? Do I need to reprogram them or something? I never had this happen on any GM I owned before...:red: I did several searches on this subject, but am not coming up with anything.

Is the check engine light on?

No. Everything else works fine that I can tell. No dash indicator lights lit up... I used it all weekend and it is fine, but using the key in the door sucks!

OK, is found this post by C2Vette and I think this is the issue. If I have to pay the dealer to reprogram my BCM I am going to be POd! :mad:This should definitely not happen from just charging your battery.

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...ghlight=keyfob

The reason I think this is it when I read it, is that I no loger have the TPMS light illuminated and I should right now with my winter tires on there. I forgot about that till I read his post. Will call dealer in the a.m. I guess.

The RKE's (both) have to be re-programmed using a Tech 2 plugged into the ALDL (assembly line data link connector) under the steering column. A dealer should not charge for this. It will take 2 minutes.

Another dash indicator that will not light-up is the "security" light. It is set with the RKE.

Talked to my local dealer today and he said it could be done for a min. charge of $49.95! :eek: When I asked him how long it would take he said about 20 minutes. :mad: Think I'll try the dealer I bought it from despite they are a 40 minute drive away...

Nothing is free unless you do it yourself, have a friend who can do it, work in a dealership or shop that has a Tech II or you are under warranty. Dealerships are businesses and equipment costs money.

Yes, I can understand that. Everyone needs billable hours to stay in business...

I am more upset that I have to do this at all... In IMO this should never happen from just running your battery down and charging it back up again. So am I understanding this right that the battery is in the back and that is the only way it can be jump started or recharged without causing this to happen? :roll: Why do they even have that positive terminal with the red plastic cover under the hood then? It just seems like an obvious charging connection in my opinion...

It would be nice to know exactly GM's position on re-programming RKE's. Here in Oshawa a dealer will do it, no charge. One of the service advisors or a parts employee takes a Tech 2 out to the vehicle in the yard and after a couple of beeps it's job done in all of 2 minutes. Not a good dealer who will not do that. Have both RKE's with you. Back when we were using OBD 1 systems the owner could perform this function by grounding out the appropriate terminal on the ALDL per written instructions in the owner's handbook but now with OBD2 it requires a hand held Tech 2. You can disconnect the battery without loosing key codes but to be safe don't connect an AC charger to the vehicles electrical system. Remove the battery to charge. Prior to removing the battery you could hook-up a host 12 volt battery to the remote terminals in the engine compartment or plug-in a memory code holder (9 volt battery) to a cigarette lighter or accessory plug. Read the instructions that come with the code holder. Did you activate the remote at any time when the charger was on charge? Nothing is simple anymore.....When removing or installing the battery do not let the ground strap toggle when making the connection. Make one quick direct connect to the battery post/terminal.

check your remote battery mine did the same thing but my remote battery mount came out.

I asked a local dealer here in Oshawa their position on not charging for re-programing a vehicles RKE's when necessary. He said it's our way of saying thanks for driving GM.

2 minutes to do the actually reprogramming maybe

Don't forget the,
20 minutes of the car sitting in the parking lot,
10 minutes getting it into the bay,
15 minutes the mechanic dude staring at the ceiling before realizing that he actually has work to do,
13 minutes to get the tools "Where the hell is that damn machine",
2 minutes to reprogram,
25 minutes of bagging the car on the road 'to make sure the fix worked', O.o
10 minutes to get the keys back to the service guy because they somehow misplaced the keys and couldn't find them right away,
1 minutes for them to call your name over the PA and you to drive off the lot :)

Agreed, my dealer did not charge me anything even though it took quite a while to figure it out (my vehicle would not initially accept a re-program for some reason).

It could take a couple of minutes to configure a Tech 2 to the specific vehicle. There are a couple of companies making them but I am familiar with the Expertec out of Rochester New York. It is part of an information system and is quite user friendly displaying diagnostic data in words rather than codes and you are not having to go back and forth to a reference chart for the next step in the process of whatever you are doing.

Carl,

See:https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...7&postcount=55

AND for a more complete discussion see:
https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/problems-service-repairs-42/no-pwer-steering-after-dead-battery-jump-25519/
The title of the above thread does not sound like it would address your concern, but does.

I still haven't hear if you loose battery power completely again if this "reprogram" has to be performed again or not.

I would be willing to bet you would... :roll:

Well, I finally got tired enough of opeing up my door with the key that I broke down and paid the $50 to get this reprogramming procedure done... I tried talking with my original dealer on this and it sounded like they would cover it, but of course once I drove all the way over there it was a different story. :( Lesson learned there too. I won't be going back there ever again...

I've seen the RKE's sometimes fail to function if the battery has been dis-connected on Corvettes that have been stored for a few months. I've also seen them fail even if the battery hasn't been dis-connected. It is best once a month to use them. I have the battery out of my 09 LS but with a host battery hooked up front in parallel to the remote terminals. I removed it to repair the broken battery vent tube (as received) and remove the broken piece in the battery. The parasitic drain when sitting is about 1/10th of a volt per month.

I got my answer on this today as I went out to get something out of the SS and noticed the interior lights didn't come on... Dead battery again after sitting just 2 weeks in storage! :( I wasn't going to hook the charger up to the connections under the hood this time as I was suspecting that that was potentially what caused the FOBs to lose there poprogramming link.

I popped the back hatch from the inside (PIA of course, but thanks to the posts on this site took only about 5 minutes) :bow: Hooked up the charger to the + battery terminal and ground strap right there and let her trickle charge for 1 hr. One turn of the key and she fired right up and the key FOBs work! :thumb:

I still can't believe that just 2 weeks of inoperation are enough to kill a battery though. I have to either charge it intermittantly or make a habit of going out and starting it every week I guess... :roll:

still can't believe that just 2 weeks of inoperation are enough to kill a battery though. I have to either charge it intermittantly or make a habit of going out and starting it every week I guess

The only thing running should be the wake-up module checking sensors every few minutes and the radio memory. I checked my 09 LS in storage and the battery parasitic drain is still 1/10 of a volt every 4 weeks. Also checked for a voltage drop between the battery positive terminal in the rear and the remote positive terminal under hood. There was zero drop, the voltage was the same front and back inspite of the longer positive cable. The negative connection recommended at the left front shock tower stud also checks out for negative continuity but the size of the connection at that stud is not all that good. There are many other possible negative connections if you look around the engine and the chassis across the front radiator support panel. One other thing that could increase drain is if you set your security with the RKE. My security is off. Either lock your doors with the manual lock or the key or leave un-locked if you can.

Dead battery.Keyless entry quit working, but TPMS working.If replace the module RCLDR GM25974373 and reprogram key fobs, then does all the work?