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Lower Control Arms-rear bush chassis thread- tap length ?
Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
Lower Control Arms-rear bush chassis thread- tap length ?
I'll be pulling the front control arms for overall refurbish soon.
In the event that all goes well, and no horrors ensue, I would like to run a 'tap' through the rear bushing mounting to clear the threads of the 'cage nut' so as to eliminate any problems that -might- exist, and avoid any in the future.
Extra-long M14 x 2.0 HSS taps are affordably available in several length.
Will a 5-1/8" be satisfactory? -or- should the 6-1/4" be bought instead? ( either length is $14+change) There is also an 8" available ($18) but I'd hardly figure THAT would be necessary.
Shortest could be best, but might a lengthier one be used somewhere else on the car?
Genuine GM replacement bolts are treated like gold, and finding any of the originals, or the supersessions is becoming very problematic.
I've had two sessions (so far) of putting the car on stands, and liberally soaking the bolt/cage nut areas with various penetrants.
My brother tells me that the passenger side came apart with no difficulty (80,000 miles ago) , but now -both- sides need careful attention.
While researching bolt specification (length) I'm finding lengths that are all over the map. From 90mm all the way up to 128-130mm.
If I could get threaded & un-threaded, along with overall lengths I might get a suitable replacement @ BelMetric (going to get a raft of other automotive grade hardware from them in the coming week) , but this is one bolt I'm missing OE specifics about. (Shank length is pretty important on this one I'd think)
When I felt around in the pocket where the LCA bolt terminates, I'm feeling a bunch of extra bolt poking out above the cage nut.
Sure wish I could count on the originals coming out and being suitable for re-use, but if I could source some genuine OE GM, or suitable replacement I'd be happier to commence this long-winded round of maintenance/repairs.
I -REALLY- don't want to deal with a nightmare so far as the cage nut breaking free, the driver's side seems like a horrible predicament to have to fix if it does.
That is why I'm not bashful about spending on replacement bolts, and the tap to clear threads if it comes apart without a hitch (??) !
Coffee was awesome, morning chores are done, so I dug out an original OEM bolt
OEM bolt with cage and cage nut The bolt is 5 “ or 13 CM long You can see here the bolt has a self cleaning tip to ease installation. I use anti seize in the shank and the threads
Last edited by Oldblue; Sep 14, 2024 at 11:55 AM.
Reason: Corrected typo error!
If the bolt doesn’t come out good enough for reuse , then the caged nut won’t be any good either.
FYI. I wasn’t suggesting an extra GM bolt. Just something from the local hardware store. Could be a little longer. Just the same threads. You’d just be using it to chase the nut threads to clean them up.
I've seen theses sort of GM bolts come out with usable threads, but the shank, close to the head is pitted and awful.
I've been working on a GMC Canyon, and the bed bolts have the same sort of nightmare.
Four bolts came out, two had the cage nuts break loose and I had to use a 3" cutting disc to get it apart. Suck factor - HIGH- !.
From all the bad times I've read about here concerning these LCA bolts, I'm biting my nails, and setting up for another round of penetrant.(fingers crossed !)
Looking like the 5-1/8" overall long tap -would- do since so much of the bolts threads poke out of the cage nut once it's all installed.
Is there anything about the engineering that would keep the tap from inserting (bushing/LCA removed) to get at the cage nut?
Is there anywhere else (rear axle beam maybe?) where the 6+" tap might be a better option?
Lots of questions, I know, but the alternative is head-scratching - more money's expended, ect. .