After reading some of your earlier threads, it seems that you are the "expert" on electrical problems. At least that's what you said back then. That you were the head tech at some shop that specialized in auto electrical problems.
And ranting "I am losing the car !!!!!!!!!!!!." Really.

Folks. I think we're being trolled in a way.

I'm out on this one.

 

Firemangeorge:

Your right and your wrong:
I have electronic background I was a tech for Saxon Business Products and we did component level repairs in shop. I have a HP scope and a tektronix digital serial analyzer in my shed that I could flash E-proms with.

In 1999 I went to work for a auto repair shop down here with 6 techs and a body shop. They gave me a program called Mitchell on Demand that had 14+ disks of data that was updated every 4-6 months. I found in that program the wiring diagrams were 100% correct. I also found that it had a component locator, a pin locator and I found flow charts that led us to the correct repair 99% of the time.

Yes I could fix this elec problem if I have the diagrams, pin locators, all the resources that I had back in 2000, but I don't anymore and I can't find anyone that seems to have the level of repair knowledge that I need for this. The repair shop and the body shop have not been able to even stop the evap box from plugging up, they have tried six times. I have now lost elec windows, lost elec rear doors, lost the light changing from night to day in the dash, the xm radio is intermittent. and the evap box is plugged again right now. I would say I am losing the car. What do you say, fireman?

 

I’d say you need to inspect ground wires, for corrosion and all connections, for loose pins and corrosion.

Send hellshotrod a PM, he has the parts you need, like that EVAP canister.

We are here to help, Donbrew has Mitchell, ask him to send you schematics of the wiring harness

 

Why not follow up on the rumors and go to an auto parts store, look in the AC section an pick up a can of aerosol AC evaporator cleaner? Many brands available. I would look for the foaming anti-bacterial type.

An enterprising person can see into the pan by removing the cabin air filter that you are probably unaware of. Look in your Owner Manual available via link in my sig.

I don't know what schematics would do for you. Water damage is pretty obvious to the eye. If you are convinced it all derives from the evaporator tray it is pretty much confined to the BCM/inside fuse box.

The windows and doors might be due to leakage at the site. Front windows especially are susceptible to water infiltration via the glass seals.

 

I bet a subscription to Mitchell isn't much.

 

Found it, I have windows again, found a good copy of window wiring. replaced three inches of bad wire. Moving on to next problem.

 

We don't have much down here. I checked with local NAPA and local Advance Auto Parts. They looked at me like I had two heads, they had no idea what I was talking about. Yes I agree, Can you point me to the foaming anti-bacterial type. Can't find anyone down here that has first hand knowledge, some had heard about this stuff, but no one knows about it. Welcome to the Keys.

 

There are many products available for cleaning the HVAC in your car.

 

If your NAPA store has a floor display of freon that is where it would be. The counter guys don't have a clue what is on the floor.

https://www.google.com/search?q=auto...w=1280&bih=951

 

wow! Thanks. Don't think there is a floor display but I will check on it.