I absolutely HATE stuff like this: which is also why I love DIY solutions.....

Just checked on my battery in the newly acquired 2010 HHR LS. Battery in the car on the dealer lot was dead, they jumped it on the lot for the test drive, then replaced it with a new battery.

They apparently didn't know how to put everything back there back together correctly, so I pulled everything out & was going to re-do it correctly: spare tire, jack, plastic cover, nut, etc... when I decided to check out the battery they put in. I instantly noticed a lot of rust on the negative terminal connected to the battery as well as some green corrosion.


So I looked up a new cable... I was thinking it couldn't possibly be more than $20 or $30 bucks because I just bought a pair of 2/0 AWG 10 FOOT OFC bare battery cables with 5/16" connectors on both ends for my 4000W power inverter for $88 just a few weeks ago, so it can't be that expensive for an 11 inch piece of #2AWG wire right.... original part # 15942254 has been replaced by part # 22786774 which is currently unavailable, but is only $180 after 45% savings... It probably cost GM about $2 to $3 to actually make one.... the only thing special about it is the 90 degree bend on the connectors... It's nothing more than just a 11 inch piece of #2AWG wire with two connectors on it, $18.99 for the 15 inch Duralast equivalent at Autozone.

Instead I just pulled the one out of the LT (top in below image), then I'll see if I can clean up the one currently in the LS (bottom in below image)....


In the event that it does not clean up very well - possible, that's some gnarly rust... I'll just order a #0AWG cable (lower resistance & higher amperage capacity in case I decide to add a serious audio amplifier later on) from Battery Cables USA with an old style cast copper crimp connector, & 1/4" post connector on opposite end, just $21 shipped and that's even after current record breaking prices on copper.... These are professionally made battery cables utilizing hydraulic crimp connectors and water tight heat shrink and high quality SAE J1127 / J378 Approved battery cable made in the USA for both automotive and marine usage.


If you're thinking about the 3rd connector on the wire, it's not actually part of the factory wire, it's just taped in place. Here's the factory cable with it removed:


And here's the 3rd connector ready to be taped back onto a new or refurbished negative cable:


It's a sensor to measure the current running through the negative cable, just like a clamp style multi-meter....

Sadly, the positive terminal is just as bad: Neither bolt shows signs of having been loosened with a wrench, but the battery is definitely a new battery, so the dealer must have twisted off both connectors from the old battery, then hammered them back in place on the new battery.


If there's enough 'extra' wire on the positive side, I can just open up the existing connector from the wires, & crimp on new a connector since I happen to have a 14 ton hydraulic crimper with complete die set that will crimp from 6AWG all the way up to 500MCM which is a 3/4 inch diameter electrical wire!

 

Sometimes the cable itself is corroded inside the sheathing , I think replacing the cable and both ends is a better solution. You’re on the right track.

 

Another reason to properly connect the vent tube. The gasses coming from the battery are corrosive.

 

I found a ground cable on RA for under 20.00 from Standard

 

That is a possibility, the battery they put in did not come with a tube (or they threw it out), and the tube that was on the old battery is cracked for about 2/3 of the length. I don't see any real rust under the battery, though the battery hold down bolt is also heavily rusted.

Thanks Oldblue, RA came up with no results for GM part #'s, so I didn't even go any further.

 

GM has pretty much discontinued all the parts for the HHR

 

My Duracell came with an ell and a plug for the other side because the battery has two vent openings. They were an attached little plastic bag. Sometimes that's missing. Sometimes the techs have no idea what it's for.

A piece of vinyl tubing would probably be fine to replace the stock tube. I got one from a boneyard when I needed it.

 

The vent tube used to be widely available from most battery vendors.. GoOgle shopping says it still is.

 

Mine looks like it's quite specific to the HHR. If that's still available, that's great news!

 

I don't know what could make it specific. It is a tube with a 90 degree plastic fitting. There are more and more cars that need it these days.