Nightmare at Chevy Dealer
07-17-2008, 08:17 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,780
Nightmare at Chevy Dealer
I finally took my baby in to the dealer on Monday morning. (I have been delaying this since May until I got my Jeep running reliable enough to use while the HHR is being repaired).
Boy, am I annoyed! The chief issues were:brakes need cutting again (done at 6k, brought the car in at about 15k to have it done but they said they could not do it in one day because they were too busy and to bring it back). Also on record there as having problems with the battery not starting the car in cold weather. They have checked it several times in the past and said the battery was fine. Last winter, I bought a booster battery and used it 3 times a week minimum. The car will not even crank the starter-it just clicks. Once the car is connected, it starts right up then will restart immediately, indicating that the battery was not drained but a cell is bad preventing the 12 volt output. Finally, I am still having the problem with the T/C light coming on yet codes showing for MAP or MAF sensor (I replaced the MAP at my cost and it did not help), This first began happening after my car was hit directly on the right rear wheel. In the beginning, it would only code after a burnout, but it has gotten worse and now codes while driving normally, or even sitting at a traffic light. Plus, there are a few bumps and rattles I wanted checked.
Here is what they said. Rotors are past 12k and will cost 2 hours labor, or $200 to cut. Nothing wrong with the battery, but I do have an aftermarket stereo that could be draining it. No codes showing for the T.C problem, and they will not test drive it with a burnout to induce the problem code. They will not even look into suspension noises since I altered it by installing the Goldline leveling springs. And they were pissed that they almost fell out when they put the car on the lift.
I have already ordered and received new EBC rotors, and I will buy a new battery myself if I have to, but they HAVE to fix the T/C problem because a new sensor is part of the hub assembly and very expensive. I told them that my auto insurance would cover it as part of the damage from the accident last year, but they have to be willing to check it. And they said there is no way to check it.
I am on my way there now to speak to them and insist on them doing something.
Boy, am I annoyed! The chief issues were:brakes need cutting again (done at 6k, brought the car in at about 15k to have it done but they said they could not do it in one day because they were too busy and to bring it back). Also on record there as having problems with the battery not starting the car in cold weather. They have checked it several times in the past and said the battery was fine. Last winter, I bought a booster battery and used it 3 times a week minimum. The car will not even crank the starter-it just clicks. Once the car is connected, it starts right up then will restart immediately, indicating that the battery was not drained but a cell is bad preventing the 12 volt output. Finally, I am still having the problem with the T/C light coming on yet codes showing for MAP or MAF sensor (I replaced the MAP at my cost and it did not help), This first began happening after my car was hit directly on the right rear wheel. In the beginning, it would only code after a burnout, but it has gotten worse and now codes while driving normally, or even sitting at a traffic light. Plus, there are a few bumps and rattles I wanted checked.
Here is what they said. Rotors are past 12k and will cost 2 hours labor, or $200 to cut. Nothing wrong with the battery, but I do have an aftermarket stereo that could be draining it. No codes showing for the T.C problem, and they will not test drive it with a burnout to induce the problem code. They will not even look into suspension noises since I altered it by installing the Goldline leveling springs. And they were pissed that they almost fell out when they put the car on the lift.
I have already ordered and received new EBC rotors, and I will buy a new battery myself if I have to, but they HAVE to fix the T/C problem because a new sensor is part of the hub assembly and very expensive. I told them that my auto insurance would cover it as part of the damage from the accident last year, but they have to be willing to check it. And they said there is no way to check it.
I am on my way there now to speak to them and insist on them doing something.
07-17-2008, 08:42 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: 07-16-2008
Location: Edmond, OK
Posts: 183
I finally took my baby in to the dealer on Monday morning. (I have been delaying this since May until I got my Jeep running reliable enough to use while the HHR is being repaired).
Boy, am I annoyed! The chief issues were:brakes need cutting again (done at 6k, brought the car in at about 15k to have it done but they said they could not do it in one day because they were too busy and to bring it back). Also on record there as having problems with the battery not starting the car in cold weather. They have checked it several times in the past and said the battery was fine. Last winter, I bought a booster battery and used it 3 times a week minimum. The car will not even crank the starter-it just clicks. Once the car is connected, it starts right up then will restart immediately, indicating that the battery was not drained but a cell is bad preventing the 12 volt output. Finally, I am still having the problem with the T/C light coming on yet codes showing for MAP or MAF sensor (I replaced the MAP at my cost and it did not help), This first began happening after my car was hit directly on the right rear wheel. In the beginning, it would only code after a burnout, but it has gotten worse and now codes while driving normally, or even sitting at a traffic light. Plus, there are a few bumps and rattles I wanted checked.
Here is what they said. Rotors are past 12k and will cost 2 hours labor, or $200 to cut. Nothing wrong with the battery, but I do have an aftermarket stereo that could be draining it. No codes showing for the T.C problem, and they will not test drive it with a burnout to induce the problem code. They will not even look into suspension noises since I altered it by installing the Goldline leveling springs. And they were pissed that they almost fell out when they put the car on the lift.
I have already ordered and received new EBC rotors, and I will buy a new battery myself if I have to, but they HAVE to fix the T/C problem because a new sensor is part of the hub assembly and very expensive. I told them that my auto insurance would cover it as part of the damage from the accident last year, but they have to be willing to check it. And they said there is no way to check it.
I am on my way there now to speak to them and insist on them doing something.
Boy, am I annoyed! The chief issues were:brakes need cutting again (done at 6k, brought the car in at about 15k to have it done but they said they could not do it in one day because they were too busy and to bring it back). Also on record there as having problems with the battery not starting the car in cold weather. They have checked it several times in the past and said the battery was fine. Last winter, I bought a booster battery and used it 3 times a week minimum. The car will not even crank the starter-it just clicks. Once the car is connected, it starts right up then will restart immediately, indicating that the battery was not drained but a cell is bad preventing the 12 volt output. Finally, I am still having the problem with the T/C light coming on yet codes showing for MAP or MAF sensor (I replaced the MAP at my cost and it did not help), This first began happening after my car was hit directly on the right rear wheel. In the beginning, it would only code after a burnout, but it has gotten worse and now codes while driving normally, or even sitting at a traffic light. Plus, there are a few bumps and rattles I wanted checked.
Here is what they said. Rotors are past 12k and will cost 2 hours labor, or $200 to cut. Nothing wrong with the battery, but I do have an aftermarket stereo that could be draining it. No codes showing for the T.C problem, and they will not test drive it with a burnout to induce the problem code. They will not even look into suspension noises since I altered it by installing the Goldline leveling springs. And they were pissed that they almost fell out when they put the car on the lift.
I have already ordered and received new EBC rotors, and I will buy a new battery myself if I have to, but they HAVE to fix the T/C problem because a new sensor is part of the hub assembly and very expensive. I told them that my auto insurance would cover it as part of the damage from the accident last year, but they have to be willing to check it. And they said there is no way to check it.
I am on my way there now to speak to them and insist on them doing something.
Dad Went through a similar issue with his "new to him Tahoe." We had it back at the dealer so many times for just that very thing and they never could tell us what the issue was. They didn't see a bad cell and the battery tested fine. Even took it to a third party and they said the same thing. In the end, I found an interstate store and bought a scratch/dent off of them for about half of what a new one would cost. Tahoe has never failed to start since then.
Dad has MS so it can be a chore to go anywhere, let alone a dealership. have a third party or two test that battery, if it tests good, Chalk it up to the battery being spooky and go grab a new one.
Incidentally, mom's Buick was doing the same thing, only it wouldn't crank at all.
Good luck on the T/C
07-17-2008, 11:19 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-30-2006
Location: Maryland Heights, MO
Posts: 9,149
I had the same issue with my battery. There is a TSB. ChevyMgr posted it.
Document ID# 2028549
2007 Chevrolet HHR
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Battery Draw From The BCM 2 Fuse - keywords BCM2 click crank door drain lock no slow start #PIC4108E - (10/08/2007)
Models: 2005-2008 Chevrolet Cobalt
2006-2008 Chevrolet HHR
2007-2008 Pontiac G5
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIC4108D.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Reports coming into Technical Assistance Center indicate a condition for a battery draw on the above vehicles. The condition is a battery draw that can cause about 100-170 Millie amp draw on the battery. When this condition exists, you may notice that if the BCM 2 fuse in the BCM is pulled, the draw goes away. When looking at the wiring schematics you will NOT see the microprocessor (inside the BCM) that is hooked to this fuse. This Microprocessor is sending small amounts of voltage out on two circuits.
The two circuits are:
The door lock input circuit #682 (White) to the BCM could be pulled low. (DOC# 1692511) For HHR use (DOC# 1771933)
The dome lamp output circuit #149 (D-BU/WHT) to the BCM could be pulled low (DOC# 1583369) For HHR use (DOC # 1771926)
Recommendation/Instructions:
Install the Tech-2/Candi module and look at the door lock switch status in the BCM data section. Status should be reading " Idle". If it reads Unlock or Lock, then check for a possible short to ground in circuit #682 (White) or a possible door lock switch concern. If that checks out OK then remove circuit #149 from the BCM and wait to see if your draw times out in 20 minutes. If it does then check for a STG in circuit #149 (D-BU/WHT).
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
__________________
2007 Chevrolet HHR
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Subject: Battery Draw From The BCM 2 Fuse - keywords BCM2 click crank door drain lock no slow start #PIC4108E - (10/08/2007)
Models: 2005-2008 Chevrolet Cobalt
2006-2008 Chevrolet HHR
2007-2008 Pontiac G5
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIC4108D.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Reports coming into Technical Assistance Center indicate a condition for a battery draw on the above vehicles. The condition is a battery draw that can cause about 100-170 Millie amp draw on the battery. When this condition exists, you may notice that if the BCM 2 fuse in the BCM is pulled, the draw goes away. When looking at the wiring schematics you will NOT see the microprocessor (inside the BCM) that is hooked to this fuse. This Microprocessor is sending small amounts of voltage out on two circuits.
The two circuits are:
The door lock input circuit #682 (White) to the BCM could be pulled low. (DOC# 1692511) For HHR use (DOC# 1771933)
The dome lamp output circuit #149 (D-BU/WHT) to the BCM could be pulled low (DOC# 1583369) For HHR use (DOC # 1771926)
Recommendation/Instructions:
Install the Tech-2/Candi module and look at the door lock switch status in the BCM data section. Status should be reading " Idle". If it reads Unlock or Lock, then check for a possible short to ground in circuit #682 (White) or a possible door lock switch concern. If that checks out OK then remove circuit #149 from the BCM and wait to see if your draw times out in 20 minutes. If it does then check for a STG in circuit #149 (D-BU/WHT).
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
__________________
07-17-2008, 06:09 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: 08-27-2006
Location: Anaheim, CA
Posts: 2,566
I have had 2 batteries already, and only about 12K miles. My dealer doesn't understand it, but they just happily do the replacement and that fixes it. My hubby thinks maybe he is accidentally hitting the aux light up near the mirrors, or something like that.... my audio is stock. We just can't understand it otherwise unless it is that light. My underbody lighting can only be turned on by a switch.
07-17-2008, 06:40 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,780
In my case, the battery is not drained or it would not start right up after the boost.
As for tune, I already thought of that. I took it back to TuneTyme and they removed the tune and restored everything to stock, and the T/C still coded.
As for tune, I already thought of that. I took it back to TuneTyme and they removed the tune and restored everything to stock, and the T/C still coded.
07-18-2008, 12:23 PM
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: 12-18-2005
Location: Middle Village, NY
Posts: 1,780
Thanks, GGDHHR. Many thanks. Armed with that info, I called the service manager and game him the PICc number. When I called this AM, he said they indeed found a battery problem and replaced it.
Regarding the T/C problem, though, the mechanic took the car for a test drive and had the code. Unfortunately, he said it is not due to the wheel sensor, but the CGS intake. A few others here have had similar problems, likely attributed to oil from the air filter clogging the MAF sensor and throwing off the trans signal. I found on HHRBoutique a high flow MAF sensor
http://hhrboutique.com/items/hhr-per...sor-detail.htm
I have to check with TuneTyme to see, but it may be he solution to the problem, while improving the performance as well.
And the new rotors and brake pads (red) arrived today so I have a project to do tomorrow!
Regarding the T/C problem, though, the mechanic took the car for a test drive and had the code. Unfortunately, he said it is not due to the wheel sensor, but the CGS intake. A few others here have had similar problems, likely attributed to oil from the air filter clogging the MAF sensor and throwing off the trans signal. I found on HHRBoutique a high flow MAF sensor
http://hhrboutique.com/items/hhr-per...sor-detail.htm
I have to check with TuneTyme to see, but it may be he solution to the problem, while improving the performance as well.
And the new rotors and brake pads (red) arrived today so I have a project to do tomorrow!
07-18-2008, 12:28 PM
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: 04-30-2006
Location: Maryland Heights, MO
Posts: 9,149
Thanks, GGDHHR. Many thanks. Armed with that info, I called the service manager and game him the PICc number. When I called this AM, he said they indeed found a battery problem and replaced it.
Regarding the T/C problem, though, the mechanic took the car for a test drive and had the code. Unfortunately, he said it is not due to the wheel sensor, but the CGS intake. A few others here have had similar problems, likely attributed to oil from the air filter clogging the MAF sensor and throwing off the trans signal. I found on HHRBoutique a high flow MAF sensor
http://hhrboutique.com/items/hhr-per...sor-detail.htm
I have to check with TuneTyme to see, but it may be he solution to the problem, while improving the performance as well.
And the new rotors and brake pads (red) arrived today so I have a project to do tomorrow!
Regarding the T/C problem, though, the mechanic took the car for a test drive and had the code. Unfortunately, he said it is not due to the wheel sensor, but the CGS intake. A few others here have had similar problems, likely attributed to oil from the air filter clogging the MAF sensor and throwing off the trans signal. I found on HHRBoutique a high flow MAF sensor
http://hhrboutique.com/items/hhr-per...sor-detail.htm
I have to check with TuneTyme to see, but it may be he solution to the problem, while improving the performance as well.
And the new rotors and brake pads (red) arrived today so I have a project to do tomorrow!
I never had a code from my CGS, but my wife did have a T/C code a couple times. It happened this past winter when she spun her tires. Cleared the code, came back twice. Nothing since.
I'm really glad that I switched to the GMPP from the CGS; great looking and better performance.
07-18-2008, 12:45 PM
#10
Platinum Member
Join Date: 05-09-2006
Location: "Upland" Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 6,804
It's really a terrible shame when you have a continual problem, YOU need to provide infomation that the dealer already has, the Service Advisors and Tech's are supposed to read, and they are supposed to reference when a customer/owner has a problem.