Oldblue

I read it was in the ignition wire to the starter solenoid

DrNusbaum

I think this is correct, from the other threads I read in previous years. The fusible link goes between the starter and alternator?

Oldblue

From post #17 in that thread from RJ

I just looked at my '09, there is an orange fusible link attached to the top lug of the starter, that turns to red/black, but it runs over to the generator.

DrNusbaum

Well this ODB2 reader is kind of confusing, it seems to only show number codes for "powertrain" items?
I'm not sure the emissions count as DTC's ?
For the emissions it just has a bunch of green and red icons at the top, so it's showing like O2, MIS, FUE, CAT, CCM, HTR, EVA.
The device manual is pretty sparse.
But I don't think any of those would prevent starting, at least electrically.

When I was troubleshooting previously, I read a couple of the threads trying to figure out the hood ajar switch, and I saw where you had been saying besides the remote start the hood ajar switch could go bad and prevent starting in general and need replacement or bypassing; so I just grounded the purple wire (as described in thread) to see if it made a difference in case that was blocking cranking. It did not, so I took that temp grounding wire off. I currently have the hood switch connector unplugged, but I was going to put it back when I finish. So not an issue anymore.

2 weeks ago: started fine 3 times that day, then I sadly hit a big and unexpected bump on the highway . No obvious trouble at the bump, but about an hour later when I went to start it again to go home, no crank and no clue why (not the usual reasons). As the root of the problem proved to be more esoteric, I've become more convinced that bump knocked something out of place or broke a wire.

No one has messed with the relay/fuse box at all, besides me checking all the relevant fuses and relays since this happened.
And I'm not keen to take it apart tbh.

Yes the 3 main wires to the left of the relay box are solid and have good power.

If that wire was broken, do you have any idea how difficult it would be to fix ?

I have not actually looked at or checked the PN Switch itself. I'm not exactly sure where it is.
However, I do know the PCM is sending the solenoid voltage to the crank relay #34 - would it do that if the PN Switch was broken ?
Or does the PN Switch block the solenoid voltage after the crank relay ?

Do you know if anything could block the solenoid voltage past the relay, or is it a straight shot on the solenoid wire ?

Only tried it in Neutral and Park, back and forth on a few occasions, as advised to see of the PN Switch was flaky, even jiggled it a bit around the Park position like some said. Made no difference.

I will double check these, but like I said when the ignition key is turned, it definitely is sending the solenoid voltage signal to the crank relay #34.

Yeah, that was one of the first things I checked before the tow though.
I don't think the relay is bad because:
A) There are 5 matching relays, and I've swapped them all around multiple times to check, never cranks.
Although I suppose it's not impossible, I doubt more than 2 of them went bad at the same time.
B) I used a wire to jump crank relay #34, socket pin 30 (12v hot) to socket pin 87 (output to solenoid), as commonly recommended troubleshooting. Nothing from starter.

Oh wow, that diagram is perfect, thank you!

According to that, the magenta wire goes directly from crank relay pin 87 to the solenoid S terminal... that's exactly what I needed to know for sure.
And I have already confirmed there is no continuity between crank relay socket pin 87 in the relay box and the other end of that wire where it comes out.
So it seems the wire must indeed either be busted or have lost it's terminal connection somewhere under/inside the relay box.

donbrew

If the car has a fusible link it is the wire between the alterator and the starter. Not all have one. It would affect charging the battery.

donbrew

If there is power going to pin30 and a signal on pin 86 and the solenoid does not click, check for continuity to ground on pin 85.
It is pretty simple after the ECM gets past interlocks. My guess is the bump dislodged the fuse box, saying "it is very tight" is not enough, there are many slots and pins that need to engage it needs to be King Kong tight, especially the bolt near the crank fuse and relay.
So, you swear there is power to 86 when the key is turned, is there power going out 87 at that time? I doubt it. No power would mean the relay is not clicking which means the ground is not connecting.

Any autozone/advance/o'reilly will read the codes for free. your reader is crap.

Oldblue

The impact of the bump could have loosened a ground wire, or the fuse box check the ground at the lug on the transmission down on the right of the oil filter housing

RJ_RS_SS_350

Those sound more like I/M readiness monitors, not codes. When they all go to green, you're ready for emissions testing.

DrNusbaum

Definitely power on 86. Didn't really have the set up to test 87 going out, although maybe I could have managed it.

However the issue was that pin 87 had no continuity to the other end of the wire at the solenoid.
That's basically what I narrowed it down to after you send that wiring diagram, either a broken wire or inside of fuse box.

And you were correct. After I had loosened all the fuse box bolts all the way, I just tightened them back down again.
As soon as I did that, pin 87 had continuity to the end of the solenoid wire.
I put everything back together and the car started right up.


Hah, every time I call and ask they say it's broken.
I bought one that hooks to my laptop, but it won't connect to my car... don't know if it's a pos or there's some other issue.
Easier to just borrow one at this point.

DrNusbaum

SO now my question is...
How stable is this fuse box? Am I at risk of disconnecting any time?
I feel nervous about it now. I mean I guess I know the "solution" but it's kind of messy.

Should I take it apart and put the dielectric grease on all the terminals like that one guy did?
Is there any other prevention? I keep tools in the car, so I guess I'll always be able to re-set or torque the fusebox bolts, if that's really all it takes...

I kind of have the urge to install the pushbutton starter anyway, in case it glitches and I need to go without time to mess around.
Is that insane ??