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Problems/Service/RepairsIf you have a problem with your HHR, want a tip on repairing or performing a particular service to you HHR here is the place to post!
No word from the shop yesterday afternoon so I went on GM tech Assist and told them the problem and this is what I got back all of which DOES NOT MAKE ANY SENSE TO ME!
26 October 2018 09:36
K. Wiggins
Chevy Mechanic Hello, looking at the diagram theirs no diode in this one. If you cannot find the correct connector you can use an aftermarket metripak connector. The dealer should have these on hand.
They need to check voltage at the relay from the cooling fan fuse and signal to the relay from the ecm that ground it to control the fan. They also need to check continuity from the relay to fan and relay to ecm. I'll post the wiring diagram below. This is not a very complex circuit.
They want you to check the ecm to ensure it’s creating the ground path at the appropriate time to trigger the relay.
Then they want you to ensure there is voltage at the fuse powering the relay and after the relay when the ecm does indeed trigger the relay to output power to the fan.
Lastly, they are suggesting that you do not have the correct fan connector and that the dealer should cut and splice in the new connector to allow for the new fan to hook up properly, assuming it is not now.
To start with whoever that was in Bangla Desh was not looking at the part that says "early models". But, I don't know about your car. Some do some don't.
Secondly he said exactly what I have been saying. What is confusing?
You can get the connector from NAPA or most parts stores. The only pigtail is part of the motor, it plugs directly into the harness. If there is a diode it would be on the harness (I think). The dealer claiming they don't have the connector is crazy.
The shop needs to scan for codes whether the CEL is on or not. A P0480 or P0481 will tell if it is the relay.
This seems to be going circles. Hot wire the fans. Do they work? Test the plug that goes to the fan, Do you have power and ground?
No power or ground to plug. Where does it come from?
Well I am happy to report that I have the car back at home. After three days and two phone calls the shop finally decided the problem was the NEW fan. I told them what I had fixed and replaced with NEW parts and they still called to verify that I had put in a new fan assembly. Well anyway, lesson learned. Check the fan motor for resistance before installing, it will save you time and headaches!
The shop put in another cooling fan ? Number 3 ? If so, I would keep a close eye on the engine temp. I'm not convinced it was 2 defective motors.
You stated earlier that the other 2 motors would work when you applied 12 volts to them. Sounds more like the shop "lucked up" when replacing the motor this last time and managed to get a good wire connection.
Hate to be the cynical guy but that's how I see it.
I had the same issue, drove me nuts - it was the jumper / extender from the engine harness to the fan. Soldered the wires and removed the jumper harness. One of the OEM
wires in the short jumper was bad internally. The issue started at 50k miles.
The fan would sometimes run - sometimes not. The car was ok on the highway - start to overheat around town in stop and go driving.
Last edited by Oldblue; Dec 1, 2018 at 11:58 AM.
Reason: We don’t know exactly where the wire in the harness is manufactured
if you dont want to read the entire post, please jump to 2nd para.
Im not sure this is the same issue, but last week, I noticed my temp climb a little higher than usual (198*-203* is normal for me, been that way since I bought it back in Feb)
during our coolest evening of the year so far being down into the 30-35* range (Florida) I was running with the heat on low, normally all I need, however, when it started getting too warm inside the cabin, I turned the thermostat to around the 1/2 mark. a fwe minutes later is when I noticed the temp running warmer at 207*.
I let it sit a few days, then Monday I drove it during the day (87* out) and it never got hot, just normal operating range for me, so I figured it was most likely a thermostat getting dodgy.
that evening, while driving for work (medical courier) I got stopped in traffic for an accident, 10 minutes later when I checked temp, it was 217.
I had already read this thread so I figured Id try putting AC on (I never use AC) while also turning around and routing around the accident. this immediately dropped my temps back to normal range, like, literally within 2 minutes or less.
I made the rest of my courier route with AC and temps stayed normal (198-203)
tonight, during my run, with temps down around 40* I had the heat on again, but real low. temps stayed fairly good for the first hour, then started climbing, I let it get to 207 before I cranked heat all the way on, all vents open and fan high, and opened the window because it got darn hot, very very quickly ! this dropped my temps down to 203 steady. if it started to climb, Id give it some throttle until I gained about 10mph over what I was traveling, then let it settle back to what I had cruise set. this would drop my temps down to 198 or even less, but it would eventually climb back to 203, and stay there for 25-30 mins, then climb into the 205/207 range, in which I would repeat.
so for 2 hours of my route, that was how I kept my temp in check.
sorry for all that, it was leading up to my conclusion on this issue:
it seems the fan isnt turning on via temp, it does seem to work with AC on though, my guess is my temp sensor is bad, or relay.
not sure if that helps anyone else who might experience this issue. but I hope it helps someone to be able to start a diagnosis.
