No air I meant no A/c, just stale air. I jumped the fan and clutch which I figured would cause the AC compressor to circulate the freon.

With AC on, im not getting power to the cooling fan nor the 5v reference on the low pressure sensor when ac is turned on. I only have power on pin 1(low reference).

Cooling fan does come on at 217 though. I am unsure if I have the early model which has the diode I can check attached to it. I look under the connector and dont see anything like it unless it further down the harness.

Diode under in fuse box checked good, it infinate one way and blocked the other. Ive swapped relays and changed the fuses with new from each relay/fuse that corresponds to the HVAC.

Ive been going through my connectors little by little and so far I see no chafing or warn out wires. I am going to be finding the wires that go to ecm to the cooling fan and Preasure switch as they are controlled by the ECM and I have no power to the fan or switch.

Grounds are looking good, tight and clean.

If the compressor was broken, wouldnt the clutch still engage? As I said I click the AC button and nothing happens but lighting up.

When I jumped the fan and compressor, Nothing changed with the cars load which is why I am wondering if the compressor isn't able to supply pressure. I did see a TSB about people reporting a hole in the condenser where the front fascia is.

I have a feeling the problems inside the waterfall where the hvac control is but I need to figure out why the ECM is telling it not to turn on the fan when the AC button is pressed.

 

This is the 21st century, switches are now sensors. If the compressor isn't running there is no need for the fan, jumping the fan is not the same as the BCM comman+ding the fan on

 

Update: Problem is fixed minus the AC blowing cold. Cleaned all grounds under hood and fixed the leak in the flex pipe. I cleared codes, then cycled the car 5 times and all hidden codes were clear and I had function of the fan and AC.

Also I will also note I unhooked all connectors under tbe hood and used a Electric Cleaner as a just to be safe thing and I purchased 22 feet of loom which when it comes in I will be relooming the engine harness and checking everywire.

I have 0/1 gauge I will be redoing every ground on the enginecand transmission and the other grounds on tbe frame I will be using 4 gauge.


I noticed my air is still not cold but thats expected with a leak that I found on the low side Schrader valve. Will be replacing valves tommorow after a vacuum and recharge. Thanks everyone, discovered a few things that HAD to be replaced when hunting down the problem.

I have a unrelated question if you guys dont mind so I dont make another thread, its about my tensioner. I cant find if there is a sideways play tolerence. I am asking because Ive never seen an automatic tensioner NOT move even its a little. The belt that is on is a 5050400 and ive read people having 06s where belt was 405. I checked my manufacture date which said 03/06 so I had a early model which would make sense why some used 405.

I just wanted to know tolerances on tensioner so I could see if I need to warranty it. Its only a few months old.

But thanks for everyones help and input. Going to be a fun couple months making the ol' girl up to par.

 

3/06 would be a late production. Production year starts around Sept. of the previous year.

 

I’ve always replaced the tensioner and serpentine belt as a matched set from AC Delco, check the RockAuto website see if their set matches your belt number, if the belt is to tight then bearings won’t last long.

 

That makes A LOT of sense now.

Other belts had that same number of 400 so atleast the belts right. Why would the belt be to tight then? Tensioner was brand new when belt was replaced.

I took these screen shots of the one I got from Napa to the OE one. Looks similar but seems Napa has a wider and larger pully, thats crazy.

Would you trust the AC Delco Gold brand?

 

Yes, I have that in the BlackSwan with the 405 belt



This kit for my 2.4 2011

 

Appreciate that, going to order it. I was just noticing marks on most components under the engine and I may have a junkyard motor. Is there a location on the motor that shows vin or is there a tell tale sign if I may have a different motor in my car?

 

In the remote chance the paper tag is still on the end of the head with the broadcast numbers on it. Most references claim a partial VIN is stamped near the oil filter housing or the starter flange, on a 2006 the partial number should be 16S then the sequence number of the VIN. A valve on the upper coolant hose housing would indicate from a different model (most HHR comes with a bolt in the hole, or no hole).

Most junkyards leave yellow marker numbers.

 

Which one are you ordering? Your ‘06 should be the 400 version.

There should be a VIN sticker on the timing chain end of the valve cover.