How much should I expect to spend on replacing the timing belt? Most of the local shops want me to take the car to the dealership to get it fixed. I'm waiting to hear back from them for an estimate. Everything I'm seeing online says anywhere between 650 and 1000.

 

There is no timing “belt”. It is a double overhead cam engine with an internal timing chain system.

 

So again...how much should I expect to pay for this repair or replacement? Online searches are all over the place...anywhere between 650 to 1040.

 

Repair or replacement of what?

The P0011 PROBABLY is just a malfunctioning or clogged-up valve section of the intake solenoid valve. This is so common and cheap and easy to fix that just replacing it is a very good bet. (If you're hearing rattling from the passenger side of the engine, that's a different story.)

It would be premature to replace the timing chain.

If it was my new-to-me car with unknown maintenance history, here's what I'd do:

1) Put a bottle of Seafoam or the like or a 1/2 quart of ATF in the oil and run it for just a few miles, then change the oil and filter.
2) Change both VVT solenoid valves. Buy AC Delco. Put 'em in yourself. Paying someone could be as little a $200 w/ parts.

Get AC Delco 41-103 plugs in it. Even the old ones in decent shape will be better than anything else. If the coil packs are anything but AC Delco, put the originals back.

Then see if you still get the misfire. It may be the solenoid valve was causing the initial problem.

Clean the throttle body.

(Sorry if anything here is inconsistent with what was previously posted. I didn't feel like going back and re-reading.)

 

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...13-14-a-28779/

 

Here is a link to the youtube short video I put together. The first part is me driving my car into work yesterday morning at minimal speed. The second part is later in the day, sitting at a red light and then accelerating at the end when it turns green. You can hear the noise goes away when i accelerate over 2000 rpms, but the second I put my foot on the brakes, the vibrations come back and then when I come to a complete stop, the rough idling comes into play, and then it starts to stall. I can keep it from stalling by putting the car in neutral and pushing the gas pedal a few times before the next light turns green.

Recent mechanical history:

Replaced MAF and air intake hose over the summer. It is due for an oil change, although the gauge tells me I still have about 20 percent oil life left.
Replaced all four spark plugs and ignition coils on Wednesday of this week because I was originally getting a P0300 code and the spark plugs I had in my car were still under warranty.

 

One more time: ONLY AC/Delco 41-103 any other is trash in these cars.
P0300 is rarely anything to do with any ignition parts. It doe4s not mean whatever the scanner says; it does mean "misfire detected", not random or multiple or anything else. The way misfires are detected is by monitoring the crankshaft speed variation. Something as seemingly unrelated as a bad AC clutch can cause it.

 

I listened to the video. My tablet makes it sound like a diesel. Rather difficult getting realistic sound with mobile device recording, then playback.

Sorry if I missed it; have you already stated the mileage?

Ecotecs do NOT do well with extended oil change intervals, even worse with VVT like yours. My rule is change BEFORE 50% on the DIC.

 

thanks for the feedback. The mileage is roughly 165000

 

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0011

This is the problem, causing the misfiring.

Replace the intake and exhaust VVT solenoids.