working on it

Just tried out my Innova 3100i(w/ABS). It shows Po107 as "pending, current, and permanent", and the Co561-71 as "system disabled information stored invalid data". Previously, starting 5-6-15, I received the Po107 code via Torque Pro, and tried to erase it, but had no ability to see or erase the ABS code, at that time. Then, I continued driving it until my inspection date was passed by. After I retired and finally started feeling better, I am about to try again to isolate/fix/clear codes, so I can resume driving the Panel. previous reportage: https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/prob...roblems-57612/ I finally put in a new battery, and am ready to start again. Last fall, while still driving it (put 15k miles on it after codes appeared, with no driveability issues), I had checked top to bottom for loose wires, fuses, etc. and found none. I bought this scan-tool specifically to read and clear the ABS code, if possible. I also have a new MAP sensor on hand, to use if the Po107 won't clear. I also can backprobe the sensor wires to check voltages to/from the sensor. Should I go ahead with this plan? Worst case: codes do not clear. I absolutely do not trust the dealership(s) that have previously worked on it, or on my wife's Cobalt, as I feel that the problems started there. I can take my time to replace part after part if need be, or just sell it as-is; I no longer need a daily driver.

Oldblue

Try the MAP sensor first. Here is a link to causes and solutions

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0107

The other code, check for loose or damaged wiring and or bearing hubs

donbrew

If your vehicle needs an emissions test you don't want to clear codes 4 weeks of daily driving before the test. Otherwise no harm. If the P0107 is cased by a bad sensor the code will clear itself after a few cold starts, 50 at most, probably immediately.

Oldblues link explains how to use your scan tool to figure it out.

Reading and repairing the ABS codes is a better idea that reading and clearing them.

working on it

That's what I was hesitating about, how many steps it will take to get the HHR on the road again. And, I wanted to see if there was actually an ABS/Traction Control element gone bad (the Co561-71 doesn't specify) ...not sure if the clearing of just one code (I was going to try to clear the ABS code only, to see if a new one appears) is possible, or if they will both be cleared by my scan-tool (both codes appeared at the same instant on 5-6-15). From my reading on the ABS/Traction Control problem, I think the Po107 could have triggered it, so the Map sensor fix should allow both to clear. If so, then I will possibly have to spend up to 50 driveway drive cycles -100 feet long- forward and back, before taking it for inspection?? If not, then maybe another code will appear to pinpoint the base problem. After all, it has not been driven except in the driveway since the inspection expired on 12-1-15. As you see, I've waited 10+ months...I can wait a little longer, I guess. below is a snip of my scan-tool manual (it looks as if separate code deletion is possible)

working on it

Ok. I didn't clear the codes. I sent the Innova people a question about whether I could erase the ABS code separately, but haven't received a reply. I decided to go ahead and replace the MAP sensor (second try, different p/n), and started it up. The ABS/Traction Control and brake light went off!!! but, the engine warning light was still on. I did ten more start-ups, and the engine light went off!!! However, the change oil light appeared, so I did the oil reset (4 accelerator pumps), and it was gone (I knew it was due when I parked it). I attached my 3100i scan-tool, refreshed it, and the Po107 showed as "history", as did the Co561-71. Also, the emission test pass-pending-fail feature (green,yellow,red lights), changed from red to yellow. Now, I need to find out if the "history" codes can be removed or why it doesn't show green. I'll have to retrieve my OBD2 dongle, so I can use Torque Pro to double-check my true code status.

donbrew

History means history. It will eventually go away.

I am not surprised that the new MAP sensor fixed the c0561-71; they mean the ABS/TC has been disabled, not that there is a fault, it gets disabled when the car is not running "right".

In order to get the emissions testing all of the readiness tests must complete, the last one is the EVAP system, which takes about 15 stone cold to operating temp cycles. Many of the tests will not run if there is a P0107 fault pending, thus they were red, now yellow; now you have to wait for the EVAp to run then all will be green.

working on it

Just ran Torque Pro...instantly displays the Po107 code (without taking time to run tests), meaning the "history" code overrides the normal procedure. However, on the torque scan, it shows the intake manifold pressure changing as I press the gas...it's obviously reading the MAP sensor in real-time. I guess the HHR is OK now. So you think the inspection station will not mistake the stored code(s) for current or pending, or (a)should I clear them, or (b)should I go to the stealership for my inspection? reread your post: so you say I'll have to start it up and run it to operating temperature 15 more times to clear? No problem.

donbrew

When I say "running test" I mean the OBDII computer runs diagnostic test. Not you code reader. Your code reader only reads what the On Board Diagnostic computer has found, it does no testing.

A historical code is there for the experienced technician, it means nothing to you, it just means that it happened and now it has been recorded. "Current" and "pending" codes are the ones that mean anything. Most historical codes will clear after 50 starts with no re occurrence.

The inspection station computer knows what it is looking at. As long as the readiness monitors are green you are OK.

Do not clear codes unless you want to start the cycle again. The various tests run at different times, the last is the EVAP; it takes about 15 cold start cycles after the others have cleared. It also requires an 8 hour rest after cooling down.

You are guilty of over thinking and misunderstanding. That's one of the reasons Zone and Advanced can't clear the codes in Cal. A little bit of knowledge can be dangerous.

working on it

Overthinking??...I've been overthinking this for 17 months, and fearing the worst, I hesitated to start working on it again. I changed the MAP sensor August of '15, to no avail. I assumed it was good (must've been faulty...who knew?). Finally tried again today, with new p/n, and it worked. I painstakingly checked fuses and wiring off-and-on for months, but my bad back stopped me from doing much else for a year. Then the battery went bad; snakebit?? So, finally, I followed your (donbrew) and Oldblue's advice, and it seems I needed that. I'll follow the self-clearing code procedure, as I slowly repair the rear brakes and change the oil before having it inspected. Plenty of time. Thank you both.

working on it

I was wrong; I can't wait anymore. My driveway "drive cycles" are not working. My Innova 3100i scan-tool still has the IM monitor (emission status) showing not-ready. Torque Pro shows 3 testing cycle items still incomplete, after 15 cold start to shut-down cycles in my driveway. I can't duplicate the GM OBD2 Driving Cycle unless I drive it on the road. I sent this to the TXDMV: How do I drive my car (2009 Chevy HHR) with expired inspection and registration? It's 11 months overdue. I need to drive it to get it ready to pass inspection and get a new sticker! My inspection/registration was due on 12/1/2015. I had OBD2 codes, needed brake and tire repairs, and had no time to fix it. I parked it on 11/30/2015. I retired a month later, and not needing the HHR as adaily driver/commuter car anymore, I put it on a back-burner, as I addressed health and retirement issues first. I finally fixed it up, with the core problems gone (no dash lights or current codes), but cannot legally drive it the 50-100 miles (or 15-20 drive cycles) it needs to be driven (minimum) to pass inspection. Is there any way to get temporary registraion for this long-overdue testing/registration? It needs to follow a road-driven procedure to to prepare to pass inspection:

General Motors Driving Cycle

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:

1.Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
2.Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
3.Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
4.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
5.Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
6.Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
7.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
8.Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears. ****As you see, I can't do this in my driveway; I have to do it on the road. Please help! I knew I should've either fixed it or sold it in December, but I just put it off and forgot about it 'til too late. I screwed myself, didn't I? I hope the state has some temporary permit or something to allow me to resolve this.