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Programming replacement key fobs

Old Jan 22, 2010 | 12:13 PM
  #1  
HHRuss's Avatar
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Programming replacement key fobs

First post, long time lurker.

We have a nice 07 LT, nicely loaded, great deal.

Like it so much I bought my daughter a used (rental) LT, also a sweet deal. It shipped here with just one key, no remotes.

The dealer just sent me two new remotes. They are straight from parts, still in the baggies.

There has got to be some arcane way to 'sync' these to the car. I am guessing you put in a key, do 15 weird things to make the car recognize their is a new remote, capture the code and store it.

Searched here, but couldn't find anything.

Anybody know how to do this??
Old Jan 22, 2010 | 12:21 PM
  #2  
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Must be done by a shop/locksmith with the correct scanner or a dealership.
Old Jan 22, 2010 | 02:07 PM
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See this post for complete key and FOB info:

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...88&postcount=5

In your case pay particular attention to the last paragraph.

AND ask the dealer to erase all previous FOBs from memory.
Old Jan 22, 2010 | 02:13 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by Sno White
AND ask the dealer to erase all previous FOBs from memory.
That's automatic when a new FOB is programmed. That's why you must take all FOBs with you to the dealer if you are having a problem with one.
Old Jan 22, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ChevyMgr
That's automatic when a new FOB is programmed. That's why you must take all FOBs with you to the dealer if you are having a problem with one.
Sorry to question, but are you sure? My paper copy of the FSM, Volume 1 on page 6-76 mentions two programming commands:

"Invalidate All Fobs - This program will erase all key fobs from memory and then begin programming"

and

"Next Available Slot - This program will add fobs being programmed to the first open slot available in the module"

This last command seems to imply that you can add FOBs without deleting the previously programmed FOBs. However, I have no experience with the Tech II or programming, just what I have read and my interpretation.
Old Jan 22, 2010 | 03:40 PM
  #6  
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You can use the next slot. But a lot of times when a customer comes in there may be 2-3 programmed into the memory already. Not knowing where they are or who has them most dealers are usually going to invalidate all.

If a customer has a coplaint of the FOBs not working and we have to replace the RCDLR you have to add both remotes back into the memory, so it's best to have both remotes at the time of repair. There is also an option on the scan tool to copy and past the TPMS information that works about 50% of the time.

I always tell people that call in and state that 1 remote is not working, that if they press both the lock and unlock on the fob that is not working at the same time, it may resync itself. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.
Old Jan 22, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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Great, just what I thought.

Learned something new too - the attempt to "rescue" the FOB programming by pushing both the Lock and Unlock buttons. This procedure seems to be part of the “official” programming using the Tech II as well.
Old Jan 22, 2010 | 06:52 PM
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However..., The vehicle was a "rental". so check to see if the car was shipped with RKE, many rentals were not. so then you must get the local dealer to program the RCLDR to work with the fob at all, and then a second step to get the TPMS to work. That all took me 5 trips to the dealer.
Old Jan 25, 2010 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by donbrew
However..., The vehicle was a "rental". so check to see if the car was shipped with RKE, many rentals were not. so then you must get the local dealer to program the RCLDR to work with the fob at all, and then a second step to get the TPMS to work. That all took me 5 trips to the dealer.
How can you tell if you have the remote start on the vehicle?
Old Jan 25, 2010 | 01:24 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by agrandad
How can you tell if you have the remote start on the vehicle?
Look for option code AP3 on the label in the lower glove box.

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