Reduced Engine Power, now will not run.
Thread Starter
Joined: 02-16-2012
Posts: 5
From: Lakewood, OH
Reduced Engine Power, now will not run.
Hi guys, new member and first problem with our HHR (2007, 107,000 miles).
It caught the "Reduced Engine Power" bug this morning. My wife was able to limp to work about a mile from when the problem happened and parked it. No warning light has come on since during restart attempts.
It will crank and start, but runs very rough for 15-30 seconds and stalls out. Not long enough to get it out of its parking space.
I pulled the battery and it tested OK at Autozone, but low voltage. Had them fully charge it, re-installed it, and same problem. That should eliminate the alternator too. I also pulled the fuel pump relay, which prevented starting so I know that is OK too. Also checked that all fuses were "tight".
My wife did drain the battery twice (add-in seat heater) in the last month which may have contributed to this.
What I want to know is what can I try before towing it to the dealer? I think it may be the throttle body, but do not want to replace parts at random as I have read this could be caused by many different issues.
I am going to clean the MAF sensor and throttle body tomorrow, but beyond that I am stuck and cannot get it to a parts store to read the codes.
Thanks for your help!
It caught the "Reduced Engine Power" bug this morning. My wife was able to limp to work about a mile from when the problem happened and parked it. No warning light has come on since during restart attempts.
It will crank and start, but runs very rough for 15-30 seconds and stalls out. Not long enough to get it out of its parking space.
I pulled the battery and it tested OK at Autozone, but low voltage. Had them fully charge it, re-installed it, and same problem. That should eliminate the alternator too. I also pulled the fuel pump relay, which prevented starting so I know that is OK too. Also checked that all fuses were "tight".
My wife did drain the battery twice (add-in seat heater) in the last month which may have contributed to this.
What I want to know is what can I try before towing it to the dealer? I think it may be the throttle body, but do not want to replace parts at random as I have read this could be caused by many different issues.
I am going to clean the MAF sensor and throttle body tomorrow, but beyond that I am stuck and cannot get it to a parts store to read the codes.
Thanks for your help!
Deceased
Joined: 06-30-2010
Posts: 25,739
From: Kannapolis NC
to the forum dm31!I hate to say it, but you're in a classic "Catch 22" situation right now. If cleaning the throttle body and MAF allows it to at least refire and enter into limp mode you can get it somewhere to read the code/codes. But any suggestions or attempts at diagnosing the problem would be guesses at best, if it won't refire for you, having it hauled in to the dealer or a good GM tech is your only real option.
Platinum Member
Joined: 12-06-2009
Posts: 11,718
From: Alabama
No answer here either,but I do have a question. Why did the butt warmer drain the battery? Doesn't it only turn on with the car running? If you have it wired up hot all the time,you'll eventually kill the battery:as in kill it so that it won't fully charge back up. Modern day cars and their electronic hate low voltage. Sounds like you may have an issue created by this.
I left the interior lights on in my 1998 Dodge truck: dead battery 2 different times,3 years apart.Both times I had to replace the battery. Neither time would the old batteries charge back up and hold a charge.
I left the interior lights on in my 1998 Dodge truck: dead battery 2 different times,3 years apart.Both times I had to replace the battery. Neither time would the old batteries charge back up and hold a charge.
