That sounds like a 'let's replace everything to be on the safe side' estimate, not an actual diagnosis. But that's just my opinion, your car is 8 hours away from me so I can't see it very well.

 

Ok, but the last time I bought a transmission from GM , it included the fluid, torque converter, harness and TCM .
that was 3 years ago but still.


New transmission, then there’s shipping.

 

The HHR automatic transmissions last a long time. Usually the only issues are solenoids or the pressure switch.

I agree with donbrew, I don't know how they can say you need a new transmission from the information they have.

A transmission shop would diagnose the issue much better (a good shop anyways) and also have some experience with this common transmission.

There are a lot of possible causes for the P0842 code, most of them electrical (wiring, solenoids, pressure switch). It seems the shop is jumping to the worst case ($$) scenario, which is assuming an internal transmission issue is causing the problem.

Steve

 

P0700 means communication between transmission and TCM , wiring, ground wire loose connectors , internal solenoids, low fluid level, dirty transmission fluid, engine coolant temperature sensor problems.
I suggest they investigate that code first!
https://www.autozone.com/diy/diagnos...em-malfunction

 

Ok, just to clarify, the two codes I listed were what *I* got from my OBD scanner and android app. The shop used their transmission diagnostic machine (that every other thread mentioning either of those codes said would be needed for a real diagnosis). It could still be a scam, but I didn't want you to think he was just going by those two codes.

 

Thanks for the update. We’ll wait to see what the dealership has to say

 

Just got the call from the dealership. GM Remanufactured transmission and lower control arms = $5300 + tax.

Considering taking it to a transmission shop and seeing if they can do it cheaper with still a decent warranty.

 

So, if the dealership replacement doesn’t fix the light code, is that a no charge?
Take it to a transmission shop. See what they say, don’t mention you previous two shop diagnosis.

 

I am still confused.
Has a competent mechanic laid hands on the car and diagnosed "your transmission needs to be replaced"? Or, are they just going by OBD codes alone.
I find it hard to believe 120,000 miles can kill a 4T45E transmission; maybe a valve or solenoid. I don't know what sort of abuse could do it.
I know for a fact you can purchase control arms for a lot less than GM charges, the labor hours will be the same but rates vary. Generally a GM shop charges more per hour and parts than an independent shop that gets parts from the local parts store. Ask for estimates based on replacing just the bushings and replacing the assemblies; parts will be hugely less labor may be more.

 

I took it to the local shop. I shared the codes that I had pulled that threw the CEL (shared above). I cleared those codes and wanted to see if the CEL would come on again. It did not.
The local shop connected it to their transmission diagnostic machine and took it for a test drive, and came up with the diagnosis of - replace the transmission and lower control arms.
I then took it to the dealership. Their transmission guy looked at it, and came up with the diagnosis of - replace the transmission and lower control arms. I have to assume that he connected it to their transmission diagnostic machine and took it for a test drive.

For the record, I wrote up the symptoms in a Word doc and printed it off for each shop, along with my contact info to make it easier than explaining everything to them. Pasted below:
---OBD Codes

P0700 – Transmission Control System - check for loose or damaged wires at the TCM, also a loose ground wire at the transmission ground stud. The connector to the TCM should be checked for loose or damaged pins.

P0842 – Transmission fluid pressure sensor switch – could be the switch or loose wire/wiring harness issue.

Symptoms: Transmission runs fine at highway speeds. After driving for a while, getting up to temperature, it becomes sluggish at low speeds, jerking and threatening to stall unless you put it into Neutral at a stoplight. Recently occasional clunk when shifting back into Drive from Neutral.