Reviving 2009 HHR LT 2.2 after sitting 3 yrs
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Joined: 01-23-2009
Posts: 26,536
From: Fredericksburg,VA
That's why I blamed the bar stops. Mine definitely was the links hitting the LCA when turning lock to lock.
Like I meant to say: I don't know if it is cause or effect, the bar stops were not doing their job. Could have been something else. The links stopped hitting the LCAs after I changed them to 10".
Like I meant to say: I don't know if it is cause or effect, the bar stops were not doing their job. Could have been something else. The links stopped hitting the LCAs after I changed them to 10".
Senior Member
Joined: 04-03-2018
Posts: 249
From: Florida
That's why I blamed the bar stops. Mine definitely was the links hitting the LCA when turning lock to lock.
Like I meant to say: I don't know if it is cause or effect, the bar stops were not doing their job. Could have been something else. The links stopped hitting the LCAs after I changed them to 10".
Like I meant to say: I don't know if it is cause or effect, the bar stops were not doing their job. Could have been something else. The links stopped hitting the LCAs after I changed them to 10".
Wish I had them,.... next time.
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 08-04-2021
Posts: 29
From: MI
Any body ever come across a wheel bearing that has been jbwelded in?
It was super tough to pull... and came out in pieces (sheet metal outer portion with speed sensor stayed in the steering knuckle with the JB weld...
Had to drive it out and over the drive shaft then cut it to get it off drive shaft... and then the moog wouldn't go in cause the bore was too small.
The JB weld was a bit tough to remove (wire brushed, PB blasted dust away, scraped any chunks that would come off, repeat)...and all the while working around the drive shaft... try to put the put the new moog in.. nope too tight... repeat....that was nuts!
It was super tough to pull... and came out in pieces (sheet metal outer portion with speed sensor stayed in the steering knuckle with the JB weld...
Had to drive it out and over the drive shaft then cut it to get it off drive shaft... and then the moog wouldn't go in cause the bore was too small.
The JB weld was a bit tough to remove (wire brushed, PB blasted dust away, scraped any chunks that would come off, repeat)...and all the while working around the drive shaft... try to put the put the new moog in.. nope too tight... repeat....that was nuts!
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 08-04-2021
Posts: 29
From: MI
Since I wire wheeled and PB'd and picked out all the JB weld from the steering knuckle and put the new hub in, and the ABS ESC and Traction control warnings went away, its been driving fine.
My dad says he bought it used with 3,200 miles on it (yes 3,200). He replaced the right/passenger wheel bearing but has no idea who would have replaced the drivers before he bought it (and used JB weld on it). He says the dealer said an older lady bought the car from them, drove it a few months, brought it back and traded it in for a different car... that's why it was on the used lot with so few miles on it. seems some one hit a curb or something to damage the wheel bearing and replace it so quickly.. then dumped it on the used market.?!?!?
Put new wipers on it. 18" is what the book said... but it didn't list a rear wiper. Are the rears the 11" rear type?
ETA: Mods, can you please change the title of the thread.. I made a typo.. its an LT not an LS...
Oh and on those pictures of the 11.8" end links... if you look closely I think you will see where the end of the stud hit the lower arm and made some scoring marks... that is what happened when I put the 11.8 on the passenger, with the original 9.8 on the driver & removed the jack. I'd bet when those 11.8" arms move to an extreme the bolts impinge on the lower A arm
My dad says he bought it used with 3,200 miles on it (yes 3,200). He replaced the right/passenger wheel bearing but has no idea who would have replaced the drivers before he bought it (and used JB weld on it). He says the dealer said an older lady bought the car from them, drove it a few months, brought it back and traded it in for a different car... that's why it was on the used lot with so few miles on it. seems some one hit a curb or something to damage the wheel bearing and replace it so quickly.. then dumped it on the used market.?!?!?
Put new wipers on it. 18" is what the book said... but it didn't list a rear wiper. Are the rears the 11" rear type?
ETA: Mods, can you please change the title of the thread.. I made a typo.. its an LT not an LS...
Oh and on those pictures of the 11.8" end links... if you look closely I think you will see where the end of the stud hit the lower arm and made some scoring marks... that is what happened when I put the 11.8 on the passenger, with the original 9.8 on the driver & removed the jack. I'd bet when those 11.8" arms move to an extreme the bolts impinge on the lower A arm
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,087
From: Welland,Ont Canada
If there is a 11.8 inch long link on one side and a 9.8 inch short link on the other , then yes, that will cause interference somewhere.
The rear wiper is specific to the HHR , a Trico 11A fits , or AC Delco 8211A
The rear wiper is specific to the HHR , a Trico 11A fits , or AC Delco 8211A
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,087
From: Welland,Ont Canada
This mark on the aluminium lower control arm is from the wrench to hold the ball stud, while torquing the 18 mm nut to 59 ft/lbs
For the top, it’s clear there’s lotsa room, that mark looks more like from the 8 mm wrench to hold the ball stud to torque the nut to 59 ft/lbs
Up high from the rear, it’s clear it’s a mark from my 8 mm wrench
Last edited by Oldblue; Sep 20, 2021 at 09:21 AM. Reason: Housekeeping