This is evidently the year the HHR costs me money. Up until this year it's been very reliable and most of the costs were general maintenance. With 162k on it I wasn't expecting the picnic to last for much longer, but everything is hitting it now. A starter back in spring. All new suspension over the summer. I'd still like to have the timing chain replaced.

So the last couple of days I've been hearing a whining sound similar to an old style power steering pump that even oscillated when turning the wheel. Well, not the power steering because it's not hydraulic!

This morning I got the answer! The "Check charging system" message came on the dash. Most likely, but not positively, the alternator. At this mileage I'm going to replace it regardless. I just did that as PM on my truck (157k), but that's because we tow a travel trailer with it. Changing it doesn't look as bad as I thought it was. Just a little patience seems to be in order. And then test the battery, it's less than 2 years old but who knows? At the moment I'll be happy if I can get it home without a tow.

Here's a question that I can't find the answer to. Napa is showing a 140 amp and a 120 amp. Autozone only has 130 amp units. Rock Auto has 110, 115, 120, and 130? Huh? My Sierra was easy because there is an RPO code that indicated what alternator was used. I can't seem to find anything for a 2006 HHR. Thoughts?

 

Are they all the same price or are you asking if too much is possible? Amps is a measure of potential, so the higher ratings will work; it only supplies what is required. It doesn't try to force current down the wire.

The book says
model Denso SCO
rated output 130 A
Load test output 91 A

 

Up here 120 amps is the alternator of choice.

https://xpart.ca/new-denso-alternato...suit-2006-2007

but there’s nothing wrong with more power

 

Different prices, except for Napa which are both $144 for a rebuilt. Oddly enough they are very competitive on this. On my Sierra putting an under rated alternator on can cause problems. The rated output you cite makes perfect sense. I wouldn't think there is any huge deviation in OEM rated output.Thanks guys!

 

You are welcome! There was a thread here about changing the alternator in 25 minutes, that had information about getting the alternator out.
and remember to disconnect the negative cable only at the battery before you start the under hood work.
and place a folded towel over the hatch latch so you don’t have to crawl in the back to open the hatch.
hey, I’ve done it, it’s not fun!

 

Thanks. I watched a couple of videos this morning on it and I did find that 25 minute thread. All were slightly different approaches but were pretty close in the steps. No doesn't look fun but not as bad as some stuff I've done.

 

Also consider a new serpentine belt and tensioner, they are supposed to be changed together.
AC Delco has a kit

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...nent+kit,10660

 

They are!?!?!?!? Wow, maybe I should think about getting a new tensioner.... This one has 260K miles!!!

 

Yep, perfect time to do it right..

 

I looked at the Rockauto - the generator is not cheap at all.
Generators are being repaired in our area, this is justified if the item is rare or from an elite brand of car. And even if the car is widespread - also savings.
If in short - the generator is disassembled, cleaned, the current collector brushes are changed, the bearings are changed, tested and it is ready for work again. Sometimes they change the diode bridge, but this is rare, usually the diode bridge does not suffer.
I do not know if it is possible to buy generator parts in the USA. As far as I know, these parts are universal and they are used not only for generators and even not only for cars. If there is an opportunity and desire - experiment. I know that Americans love to work with their hands.
I ordered repairs for my wife’s Ford Focus generator and watched the process. Everything looks simpler than roasted chestnuts. Talent or special tool No required.
Here's a video