test don't guess ECM 2008 HHR2.2
I recharged the battery first, following every procedure in the manual ( I think ) then replaced it with a new one. Parts house guy said the old one which I took in for them to test, had good voltage but insufficient cold cranking amps. Hmmm?
I have replaced the TCM with a junk yard model from eBay,and a new ignition switch. Next step is to replace the leaky oil pressure switch and starter. I removed starter for bench testing and although it worked , it was time after 130K miles so I had it rebuilt as well. If the command wire to the starter does not have voltage, I will think the problem is between the crank relay (which tests good ) and the starter. How to find it? Open to any suggestions. Thanks,
Sure enough, no voltage to command wire when key is in start position.
I have replaced the TCM with a junk yard model from eBay,and a new ignition switch. Next step is to replace the leaky oil pressure switch and starter. I removed starter for bench testing and although it worked , it was time after 130K miles so I had it rebuilt as well. If the command wire to the starter does not have voltage, I will think the problem is between the crank relay (which tests good ) and the starter. How to find it? Open to any suggestions. Thanks,
Sure enough, no voltage to command wire when key is in start position.
Then you should be looking at the Run relay, crank fuse, park/neutral safety switch. Does the large red wire to the starter have 12V always? Is the ground point on the top of the trans in good condition?
You need to understand cars built since 1996 have "digital" electrical systems. Don't go around assuming that everything has a 12V and a ground. The ignition switch does not have 12 V in it, it sends a hi or low signal to the BCM to tell it whether to "Run" or "Start".
Stop blaming computers, they are very durable. It literally takes touching them with a hot wire and causing a spark to destroy them.
Jump starting directions are in the Owner Manual and there was a sticker on the fuse box cover from the factory.
You need to understand cars built since 1996 have "digital" electrical systems. Don't go around assuming that everything has a 12V and a ground. The ignition switch does not have 12 V in it, it sends a hi or low signal to the BCM to tell it whether to "Run" or "Start".
Stop blaming computers, they are very durable. It literally takes touching them with a hot wire and causing a spark to destroy them.
Jump starting directions are in the Owner Manual and there was a sticker on the fuse box cover from the factory.
My crank fuse and run relay seem ok. Large red wire to starter is hot at all times. I will look at the neutral safety switch and the ground on the transmission. Is the neutral safety switch in the console under the shifter ? Thanks for the info on the computers. Undoubtedly saved me a few wasted bucks.
Donbrew. I am trying to follow your tip on jumping the run/start relay. Where do I find pins 30,86,85? Fuse 5 is hot and there is one hot pin in relay 34 but not sure if it is the right one.
Look on the relay the pins should be labelled. they are standard.
here is a diagram. The pins may be in different locations but the numbers are the same functions.


