I have a 09 HHR LS. THE only way it will crank is to leave the key in the on position with a trickle charge on it and wait about 6-8 hours! I thought I resolved the issue when I found loose wires going to HVAC blower bc fuse 10 on BCM is HVAC/pk3. I put some dielectric grease, plugged back in, brand new battery, resolved my issues for TWO DAYS. I could treat it like a normal car and turn off when I wanted to instead of leaving running everywhere I go until I get home to an outlet for my charger. My daughter and I have Dr. appointments every week and this is my only vehicle. I love this little car but it won’t crank!! Anyone with any insight is greatly appreciated. Also, the “30 minute” re learn does not work.

 

Try tightening the 4 bolts in the fuse box very tightly. They are 7 mm

 

Go to you local big box auto parts store and have the check you alternator and starter.

 

That #10 fuse in the BCM is also for the PASS-Key. This might be connected to your problem. Sounds like maybe a previous owner has monkeyed with the system. May be a nightmare to fix if you don’t know what was done to it.
Why were you trying to do a key relearn if jumping the battery works ?
Is there more to the story ?

 

I can't decipher this:


The blower has nothing to do with fuse #10. Fuse #4 on the under hood and relay #30 on the BCM controls the blower.

 

I think they misspoke about it being for the blower.
#10 fuse is labeled HVAC PASS-Key though.

 

I have tightened the fuse box bolts last week. I will have the starter and alternator checked again but they are new. I thought maybe those loose wires at the blower motor were the issue seeing as how fuse #10 is labeled HVAC/pk3 but thanks for the info about the blower not being involved with that fuse. I can not just simply jump start it. When I get home and turn engine off it will crank right back up immediately, but turn it off and wait 10-15 minutes and it throws security light again. It will not “ jump “ at that point. I literally have to leave the key in on position, security light showing, and wait 6-8 hours on a 2 amp trickle charge before it will finally go out and allow me to crank the car. It seems to me like a battery voltage issue but at the same time if it were I should be able to jump with jumper cables even if I have to leave them connected to another vehicle for 30 minutes and do a re learn, but that does not work, I have tried several times. I was trying the re learn bc the security light on the dash. Idk, I’m going to have the brand new battery, alternator and starter checked again today and if nothing bad which shouldn’t be, I’ll do a parasitic drain test later. It seems to me, and I’m no professional, but there is something very rapidly draining my battery when I shut the car down. This thing is driving me nuts, it’s my only vehicle and my daughter and I both have Dr. appts every week regularly plus I can never shut my car off unless I’m at home and then it’s 6- hours minimum before it will crank again, unless in immediately crank it back up. Does anyone know what ideal voltage is for the HHR?

 

Above 12.4 volts static and about 13 to 14 volts running

 

Thanks oldblue, I have 13.9 while running so I know my alt. Is good. I’m gonna have to try and figure out what keeps killing my battery with the car off.

 

12.6-12.8 would be a fully charged battery. You will see around 14 volts with engine running depending on load. Could be a little lower or as high as 15+. Again depends on load.
You need to check the voltage after it has been shut down and sits for a while. My guess is it’s not a voltage loss but you are being locked out by security.

How long have you had this car ? How long has this exact problem been going on ? And how did you come up with this trickle charger/key on trick ? ( that’s a 1st for me)
Was the recall done for the ignition ?
My guess again is leaving the key on just keeps it from having to detect the key again. Still sounds like a previous owner monkeyed with it or a used car lot had one of those “shutdown” systems installed.