Will changing the grade of gas cause a CEL
Gas doesn't affect electronic circuits. P0332 means KS #2 circuit low voltage. There are 2 KSs.
My first guess is going to be a 11 year old battery. Second guess is a wire loose/burned/disconnected/bad pin. Third a bad KS.
If you have a VOM and know how to use it the test is rather simple.
My first guess is going to be a 11 year old battery. Second guess is a wire loose/burned/disconnected/bad pin. Third a bad KS.
If you have a VOM and know how to use it the test is rather simple.
Last edited by donbrew; Feb 26, 2020 at 03:32 PM.
You could have someone use a top engine cleaner that, if you have, removes carbon on top of the pistons.
Which really to me isn't a problem being it's a direct injected (DI) engine.
Keep using 93 octane and get out on the highway and beat the snot out of it.
I mean hammer down from zero and get up to 80 a few times.
Using low octane fuel would have given you a knock code before using the correct fuel made for this engines parameters.
In the end you just might have a faulty knock sensor.
"Him" might be in the Twilight Zone.
Which really to me isn't a problem being it's a direct injected (DI) engine.
Keep using 93 octane and get out on the highway and beat the snot out of it.
I mean hammer down from zero and get up to 80 a few times.
Using low octane fuel would have given you a knock code before using the correct fuel made for this engines parameters.
In the end you just might have a faulty knock sensor.
"Him" might be in the Twilight Zone.
Im one of those people that doesn't believe in coincidences. But its possible a faulty sensor, wire or harness issue. Just dropped him off at the garage this morning, so we will see. My Wife and I really appreciate everyone replying to my thread here, thats very kind of all of you. Ill post back once I hear what the issue is, in hopes that it may help others. Thanks, DeVoiD.
Gas doesn't affect electronic circuits. P0332 means KS #2 circuit low voltage. There are 2 KSs.
My first guess is going to be a 11 year old battery. Second guess is a wire loose/burned/disconnected/bad pin. Third a bad KS.
If you have a VOM and know how to use it the test is rather simple.
My first guess is going to be a 11 year old battery. Second guess is a wire loose/burned/disconnected/bad pin. Third a bad KS.
If you have a VOM and know how to use it the test is rather simple.
You could have someone use a top engine cleaner that, if you have, removes carbon on top of the pistons.
Which really to me isn't a problem being it's a direct injected (DI) engine.
Keep using 93 octane and get out on the highway and beat the snot out of it.
I mean hammer down from zero and get up to 80 a few times.
Using low octane fuel would have given you a knock code before using the correct fuel made for this engines parameters.
In the end you just might have a faulty knock sensor.
"Him" might be in the Twilight Zone.
Which really to me isn't a problem being it's a direct injected (DI) engine.
Keep using 93 octane and get out on the highway and beat the snot out of it.
I mean hammer down from zero and get up to 80 a few times.
Using low octane fuel would have given you a knock code before using the correct fuel made for this engines parameters.
In the end you just might have a faulty knock sensor.
"Him" might be in the Twilight Zone.
I have two SSes, one tuned and one not (yet)
I am going to suggest you NOT go back to the "regular" gas it was getting and stick with the +. In fact, if you can - stick with Chevron/Texaco or Shell Nitro+.
The SS really wants to have premium, it just does not perform anywhere near optimal without it.
Even if it is not tuned, it is for the best. If there is no sticker inside the gas flap, someone removed it because they come with the "recommended" one.
When you tune it, you should get a sticker that changes that to "required".
I am pretty sure George (and anyone with an SS) will back me up on this.
It's kind of like buying a purebred dog, then feeding him the cheapest dog food you can find.
He will not be as happy or active as he could be with the right food.
I am going to suggest you NOT go back to the "regular" gas it was getting and stick with the +. In fact, if you can - stick with Chevron/Texaco or Shell Nitro+.
The SS really wants to have premium, it just does not perform anywhere near optimal without it.
Even if it is not tuned, it is for the best. If there is no sticker inside the gas flap, someone removed it because they come with the "recommended" one.
When you tune it, you should get a sticker that changes that to "required".
I am pretty sure George (and anyone with an SS) will back me up on this.
It's kind of like buying a purebred dog, then feeding him the cheapest dog food you can find.
He will not be as happy or active as he could be with the right food.
Agreed, if I'm going on a long, boring drive, I might *might* put midgrade in it. But I know that even on a boring drive, things could get "unboring" in a moment, and I'll want that little extra power.
So it's very rare that anything besides premium goes in the tank. I'm glad Costco has premium for about the same price(or lower)than regular costs at almost every other station(and it's Top Tier!!).
So it's very rare that anything besides premium goes in the tank. I'm glad Costco has premium for about the same price(or lower)than regular costs at almost every other station(and it's Top Tier!!).



