The window that works is the driver's side window. We bought the vehicle like this. Because it was a 2009, with only 50000 miles. And we got it for 2700 bucks. The only problem we are having is we cannot figure out the windows.

 

Would a bad ground cause the loss of voltage

 

Yes or bad switch, you did replace the driver’s door switches. And the other three door switches? New or used from a pick a part?

 

Yes replaced with all brand new parts.

 

No. but probing the wrong wire would explain it; that is why I posted the pdf. The dark green wires should be 12 V, the light green and purple wires are digital signals. The pins on the motors alternate depending on direction requested. All switches should have 12 V at all times on the dark green wire. The driver master switch has 2 dark green wires one is 12v the other splices to the light green up signal on the left rear; maybe those got switched
I am assuming when you say only 1 works you mean even by using the switches on the respective doors and the front passenger door.
I suspect some electronics genius messed with the wires. Are there any after market electronics; maybe somebody tapped the wrong wire? Do the door speakers all work? ?Have the doors been removed and replaced?
The switches are not simple 3 position switches like last century cars.

 

When I got the car, the windows didn't roll down and none of the speakers worked, but I switched the speakers out, did not change any wiring, just put new speakers and they work fine. But the windows do not go down even if you're trying to use the designated door either. The only window that rolls down is the driver's side driver's window. I'm looking at the electrical schematic. When it comes to the ground, the driver's side and the rears are all grounded underneath the driver's side driver's seat and the passenger side window is grounded underneath that seat. I don't see how the passenger side ground would affect the three that are grounded underneath the driver's seat. This is so damn frustrating. Because if I take it somewhere I know I'm going to get charged an outrageous amount of diagnostic time at a $130 an hour.

 

Take your time, test one side one day and the other side the next day.

 

This thread was apparently forked from another. Don, could I request a link, and/or a repost here of the wiring diagram?

I am right now wresting with a similar problem. RF window only won't go down. It appears it simply won't go down. But it's more complicated than that. The motor and regulator work perfectly, up and down, when hot wired with a 12VDC source.

Here's where it gets weird. Both the local and master switch, when activated "down," will send the window UP instead! Switching for "up" does nothing, again, both switches, even with the window in a down or mid position. Swapped in the back seat switch, same thing. Put the back seat switch back, works perfectly.

Obviously, once the window reaches the top, it won't go down. A click might be heard one or twice, but no more, presumably because something senses overcurrent or something, and shuts down to protect...everything. Wait awhile and it will click again.

I studied the wiring diagram Donbrew posted but it doesn't show the logic inside the switch controllers. I'm hoping the problem is in the master switch. R&R to depower/reset it didn't help.

Expecting a new master switch assy tomorrow. Will follow up with results.

 

The link is in #10. As for logic they don't help, I take it to mean a couple of transistors
And you can get your own free shop manual via a link in my sig.

 

This link?

https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/atta...009windows.pdf