1st Problem with the Stage 1
Senior Member
Joined: 04-09-2010
Posts: 192
From: Northern Virginia
I shim seems about the only way to go
I've been through that problem too. When I went to get the GMTU installed....one of the o-rings had a crack in it. So....my car sat at the dealership for about 3 days...because they had to order the correct o-ring. It's an "off the wall" o-ring and they didn't have them instock.
I've been through that problem too. When I went to get the GMTU installed....one of the o-rings had a crack in it. So....my car sat at the dealership for about 3 days...because they had to order the correct o-ring. It's an "off the wall" o-ring and they didn't have them instock.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-02-2011
Posts: 447
From: Chesterfield Indiana
Checked out the O-Ring...looks to be fine.
Started acting up again today..So I fabbed up a bracket out of aluminum to hold the lower IC pipe just enough for the MAP sensor to clear the AC compressor. We'll see if that does anything.
I have talked to 4 mechanics and everyone of them say the same thing.."The connectors are the only way to go....I'd never soldier the wires together". We did check the lower connectors and they are SUPER tight...didn't slide or move around at all.
Anyhow...I test drove it....and it's still not acting like it used to. On the interstate.....I hammered the gas....& barely got 10 lbs. I hate this type of problem because sometimes it boost's up okay...and then sometimes it's just pure sh*t.
I told the dealership that I almost got ran over on the interstate because the car had no power at all. So...they told me to bring it in first thing and they will soldier the lower map sensor wires.
Started acting up again today..So I fabbed up a bracket out of aluminum to hold the lower IC pipe just enough for the MAP sensor to clear the AC compressor. We'll see if that does anything.
I have talked to 4 mechanics and everyone of them say the same thing.."The connectors are the only way to go....I'd never soldier the wires together". We did check the lower connectors and they are SUPER tight...didn't slide or move around at all.
Anyhow...I test drove it....and it's still not acting like it used to. On the interstate.....I hammered the gas....& barely got 10 lbs. I hate this type of problem because sometimes it boost's up okay...and then sometimes it's just pure sh*t.
I told the dealership that I almost got ran over on the interstate because the car had no power at all. So...they told me to bring it in first thing and they will soldier the lower map sensor wires.
Last edited by KissMy08SS; Nov 4, 2011 at 10:55 PM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-02-2011
Posts: 447
From: Chesterfield Indiana
Had all of the connectors soldiered today....
The GMS1 seems to run fine...but the Trifecta bounces around and flutters....doesn't really hold a "direct" lb. of boost. It'll go from 26 lbs...to 15 lbs...to 20 lbs...ect. Any idea's? Could it be the software?
The GMS1 seems to run fine...but the Trifecta bounces around and flutters....doesn't really hold a "direct" lb. of boost. It'll go from 26 lbs...to 15 lbs...to 20 lbs...ect. Any idea's? Could it be the software?
Senior Member
Joined: 05-13-2008
Posts: 2,075
From: Knoxville, TN
I'm just guessing here but...what sounds like is happening is: overboost - cut-back boost - apply more boost? I'd look for a busted diaphram or weak spring in the by-pass. Again just guessing. Pull the vac line and do a compression test, or remove the 3 screws and check visually, the spring in the by-pass doesn't work too well above 22-24lbs this could be your culpret. Or don't do this as I'm just stabbing here. But, Vince has done a ton of HHRs so I don't think its programing. as a side note though our engines have an anti-grenade code, that will cut back power after a few seconds. 26lbs would cause this, normally, and I don't know if it can be tuned out or not. Sounds like a question for Vince. I'm only pushing 24lbs(some guys are claiming 30lbs out of the stock turbo on the cobalt forums) but have changed springs and by-pass(forge), and have never had this problem. Side note number two, my 08 still doesn't have soldered wires, and never a problem there either.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-02-2011
Posts: 447
From: Chesterfield Indiana
sounds like I'm going to have to found out what's wrong with it myself....they basically keep telling me that if the CEL isn't coming on....there is nothing they can do.
I just know 2 weeks ago it ran fine. Every since I lost boost on October 31st.....it hasn't been the same. The only thing that has been done is the GMS1 and a Trifecta Tune. I just got my new intercooler, catless dp, and upper IC pipe today....but I feel like I can't put these new parts on because the car really isn't fixed yet.
I just know 2 weeks ago it ran fine. Every since I lost boost on October 31st.....it hasn't been the same. The only thing that has been done is the GMS1 and a Trifecta Tune. I just got my new intercooler, catless dp, and upper IC pipe today....but I feel like I can't put these new parts on because the car really isn't fixed yet.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-13-2008
Posts: 2,075
From: Knoxville, TN
You know now that I think about it, there is 2 more possibles all Vac line related.
1. The vac line leading from the by-pass to the block has a 3 way connector under the airbox that has been known to crack.
2. The vac line input into the cold-side pipe can crack as well.
a good way to tell if you have a vac leak is to look at vac at idle, anything above -18 would be a clue to a problem.
If your still can't find it look for cracks in the IC endtanks and the pipes too(I see you still have the stock cold pipe) check for any tears on the silicon too, kinda hard to see the front and tops without pulling the bumper. The bottom is easy to get to though, by removing the bottom wheel pan and push clips.
1. The vac line leading from the by-pass to the block has a 3 way connector under the airbox that has been known to crack.
2. The vac line input into the cold-side pipe can crack as well.
a good way to tell if you have a vac leak is to look at vac at idle, anything above -18 would be a clue to a problem.
If your still can't find it look for cracks in the IC endtanks and the pipes too(I see you still have the stock cold pipe) check for any tears on the silicon too, kinda hard to see the front and tops without pulling the bumper. The bottom is easy to get to though, by removing the bottom wheel pan and push clips.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-13-2008
Posts: 2,075
From: Knoxville, TN
Ya know what ignore that last post.
Is your Trifecta tune for your stock parts or the toys you ordered? cuz that would do it. if the Trifecta is tuned for pipes, exhaust, no cats..... and your running it through the stocks parts then there ya go. it wants to run at 26, just won't do it on the tune alone. in other words your choking it
Is your Trifecta tune for your stock parts or the toys you ordered? cuz that would do it. if the Trifecta is tuned for pipes, exhaust, no cats..... and your running it through the stocks parts then there ya go. it wants to run at 26, just won't do it on the tune alone. in other words your choking it
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-02-2011
Posts: 447
From: Chesterfield Indiana
Is your Trifecta tune for your stock parts or the toys you ordered? cuz that would do it. if the Trifecta is tuned for pipes, exhaust, no cats..... and your running it through the stocks parts then there ya go. it wants to run at 26, just won't do it on the tune alone. in other words your choking it
When I ordered the Trifecta....I told him I will be adding a bigger IC, a new Upper IC pipe, and a catless downpipe. He said the tune that he gave me should be fine for my future mods. What doesnt make sense is that it ran perfect and strong with no hesitation for 2 months....
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 08-02-2011
Posts: 447
From: Chesterfield Indiana
Removed the top MAP sensor....there is a big chunk of the O-RING missing....would that affect anything?
Also...let me know if this makes any sense:
I had the car running....and pulled the upper MAP sensor connector...(meaning that I unplugged it.) It runs exactly the same....it doesn't set any codes....I can go out and drive it and it does nothing.
Also...let me know if this makes any sense:
I had the car running....and pulled the upper MAP sensor connector...(meaning that I unplugged it.) It runs exactly the same....it doesn't set any codes....I can go out and drive it and it does nothing.