chonface

Hello all,

first thing is i havent been on in a while ...miss this site

anyway ive done lots of different work on my cars but i always suck and take forever to change brakes...anything special i should know about these cars or little quirks that may save me some time....im just changing out front pads for now


T.I.A.

Musicguy

If you have Brembos it's possible your retaining pins have seized up in there. Hopefully where you live that is not the case. Rear brakes required a special tool to compress the pistons. Other than that, simple.

chonface

i dont think there brembos , did they come on the 08?

Snoopy

I THINK if they are Brembos, it says it right on the face of the caliper.

See this thread for illustrations/photos


https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...=brembo+brakes

donbrew

BASIC disc brake job is: remove the wheel, remove the lower caliper slide bolt, flip the caliper up, remove & replace the pads, use a C-clamp to push the cylinder back into the caliper, flip the caliper back down, install slide bolt, put the wheel back on. 10 minute job, if you have not gone too far and got something really messed up.

sleeper

I like to rinse off the caliper puck, prior to pressing it back in..So as not to press brake dust back into the dust seal..

& Clean & re-lube the slide bolts..

Now on the rear disc brakes on the SS, do NOT try & press the puck back in, it is a very different proceedure..

esmarkey

Huh.... I guess an old dog can learn new tricks. I've always removed both slide bolts. Didn't even know you could replace pads by only removing one!
Thanks Donbrew, you just saved me some time in the future

esmarkey

Sleeper, would you mind explaing the rear puck thing. Haven't changed my rears yet, but want to be prepared.

Thanks in advance.

sleeper

Fronts: Just removing one slide bolt, & loosening the other allows the caliper to hinge back outta the way.. (But I prefer removing the top bolt, it allows gravity to hold the caliper back down outta the way)..


SS rear disc pads: I do believe the rear pucks get rotated back in. But would look into the details further..
Perhaps an SS owner can chime in here.

donbrew

I had done maybe 20 front pad jobs before I realized only one bolt was needed. I sure made my life easier.

The reason I remove only the lower bolt is that it is not actually a slide bolt it is a short on that needs no lube, and thus no worry about contamination. You do not need to touch the top on at all, it freely rotates in the mount, just watch the dust boot for cracking and dislocating. That is for the LT & LS variety anyway, I've never looked at SS/Brembo.

As I said that is the BASIC procedure; lube, rotors etc. may not be needed, but should be inspected. Some people always do some things, some people never do the same things, some people inspect and replace if needed. I was just demonstrating how quick and easy it can be, if you change the pads out regularly, I try to change them when the groove disappears, no further. I inspect mine for evenness about every 5,000 miles looking for signs of hanging calipers etc.

Now to start a new thread about the new 2011 rear drums.