Cold Start Noise
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 55
From: Maryland
Cold Start Noise
Hi, so I'm noticing an unusual noise when I first start the car during cold mornings. Temp is around 30F after parked for hours. The noise is like a metal to metal and it lasts for about a second and then it continues to idle fine. This has been going on during cold winter months since I got the car but I am noticing of late that its getting worst. It drives fine with no CEL or other engine issue at this time. I have been thinking that it is normal but I'm now a bit concerned since its getting a bit louder.
Senior Member
Joined: 12-05-2014
Posts: 3,368
From: Northern Ohio
Classic chain noise, that it goes away quickly suggests that one of the tensioners is not functioning as it should.
How many miles? How good is the oil change history?
2008 has the old style timing chain tensioner. I had a 2008 2.2L that got very frequent oil changes yet did this way before 100k miles, don’t remember when. I concluded that it was probably a malfunctioning timing chain tensioner and took a chance and just replaced it with the newest design. That was a gamble because if the timing chain fails completely, the valves crash into the pistons. But it worked. I understand this tensioner was redesigned twice after the version in 2008’s.
Oldblue’s suggestion to remove the valve cover is good advice. You need to remove it to replace the timing chain tensioner anyway.
Apparently, another change is an oil squirter that new has a bigger orifice, so it doesn’t just provide more oil to the chain, but is less prone to clogging, too.
If you find the chain to be loose, there’s a really strong case for doing a complete chain job, especially if the car has much more that 100K miles and/or it has a poor or uncertain oil change history.
BTW my 2010 SS got a full chain job at a little over 100K, because noise did not quit at all after starting. The (new design) timing tensioner was fine, but the front guide was broken and the balance chain tensioner was not working correctly.
Due to geometry, roller chains just can’t operate very smoothly at high speed and can vibrate fiercely, especially when turning on a sprocket with a small number of teeth, as is the case with Ecotecs. The nice thing about the turbo is that you can stay away from the redline and still have fun. The newest Ecotec has an inverted tooth chain, finally!
How many miles? How good is the oil change history?
2008 has the old style timing chain tensioner. I had a 2008 2.2L that got very frequent oil changes yet did this way before 100k miles, don’t remember when. I concluded that it was probably a malfunctioning timing chain tensioner and took a chance and just replaced it with the newest design. That was a gamble because if the timing chain fails completely, the valves crash into the pistons. But it worked. I understand this tensioner was redesigned twice after the version in 2008’s.
Oldblue’s suggestion to remove the valve cover is good advice. You need to remove it to replace the timing chain tensioner anyway.
Apparently, another change is an oil squirter that new has a bigger orifice, so it doesn’t just provide more oil to the chain, but is less prone to clogging, too.
If you find the chain to be loose, there’s a really strong case for doing a complete chain job, especially if the car has much more that 100K miles and/or it has a poor or uncertain oil change history.
BTW my 2010 SS got a full chain job at a little over 100K, because noise did not quit at all after starting. The (new design) timing tensioner was fine, but the front guide was broken and the balance chain tensioner was not working correctly.
Due to geometry, roller chains just can’t operate very smoothly at high speed and can vibrate fiercely, especially when turning on a sprocket with a small number of teeth, as is the case with Ecotecs. The nice thing about the turbo is that you can stay away from the redline and still have fun. The newest Ecotec has an inverted tooth chain, finally!
Last edited by PulpFriction; Jan 7, 2022 at 08:10 AM.
Administrator
Joined: 10-13-2011
Posts: 40,083
From: Welland,Ont Canada
Check and make sure the serpentine belt tensioner is in the middle of the access slot.
This loose chain was 9 months old , the front guide failed! Thankfully, I’m handy and could change the chains . This was a cheap EBay chain kit, you get what you pay for, then you pay again for the good parts, and anything that gets damaged when the chain slips or breaks!
Senior Member
Joined: 08-26-2008
Posts: 1,488
From: Sequim Washington
Classic chain noise, that it goes away quickly suggests that one of the tensioners is not functioning as it should.
How many miles? How good is the oil change history?
2008 has the old style timing chain tensioner. I had a 2008 2.2L that got very frequent oil changes yet did this way before 100k miles, don’t remember when. I concluded that it was probably a malfunctioning timing chain tensioner and took a chance and just replaced it with the newest design. That was a gamble because if the timing chain fails completely, the valves crash into the pistons. But it worked. I understand this tensioner was redesigned twice after the version in 2008’s.
Oldblue’s suggestion to remove the valve cover is good advice. You need to remove it to replace the timing chain tensioner anyway.
Apparently, another change is an oil squirter that new has a bigger orifice, so it doesn’t just provide more oil to the chain, but is less prone to clogging, too.
If you find the chain to be loose, there’s a really strong case for doing a complaint chain job, especially if the car has much more that 100K miles and/or it has a poor or uncertain oil change history.
BTW my 2010 SS got a full chain job at a little over 100K, because noise did not quit at all after starting. The (new design) timing tensioner was fine, but the front guide was broken and the balance chain tensioner was not working correctly.
Due to geometry, roller chains just can’t operate very smoothly at high speed and can vibrate fiercely, especially when turning on a sprocket with a small number of teeth, as is the case with Ecotecs. The nice thing about the turbo is that you can stay away from the redline and still have fun.
The newest Ecotec has an inverted tooth chain, finally!
How many miles? How good is the oil change history?
2008 has the old style timing chain tensioner. I had a 2008 2.2L that got very frequent oil changes yet did this way before 100k miles, don’t remember when. I concluded that it was probably a malfunctioning timing chain tensioner and took a chance and just replaced it with the newest design. That was a gamble because if the timing chain fails completely, the valves crash into the pistons. But it worked. I understand this tensioner was redesigned twice after the version in 2008’s.
Oldblue’s suggestion to remove the valve cover is good advice. You need to remove it to replace the timing chain tensioner anyway.
Apparently, another change is an oil squirter that new has a bigger orifice, so it doesn’t just provide more oil to the chain, but is less prone to clogging, too.
If you find the chain to be loose, there’s a really strong case for doing a complaint chain job, especially if the car has much more that 100K miles and/or it has a poor or uncertain oil change history.
BTW my 2010 SS got a full chain job at a little over 100K, because noise did not quit at all after starting. The (new design) timing tensioner was fine, but the front guide was broken and the balance chain tensioner was not working correctly.
Due to geometry, roller chains just can’t operate very smoothly at high speed and can vibrate fiercely, especially when turning on a sprocket with a small number of teeth, as is the case with Ecotecs. The nice thing about the turbo is that you can stay away from the redline and still have fun.
The newest Ecotec has an inverted tooth chain, finally!
SF
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 55
From: Maryland
Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I don't know much about cars. Took it to a mechanic and he keeps telling me to replace the entire chain which cost a lot of money. Will try somewhere else.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 12-29-2020
Posts: 55
From: Maryland
Classic chain noise, that it goes away quickly suggests that one of the tensioners is not functioning as it should.
How many miles? How good is the oil change history?
2008 has the old style timing chain tensioner. I had a 2008 2.2L that got very frequent oil changes yet did this way before 100k miles, don’t remember when. I concluded that it was probably a malfunctioning timing chain tensioner and took a chance and just replaced it with the newest design. That was a gamble because if the timing chain fails completely, the valves crash into the pistons. But it worked. I understand this tensioner was redesigned twice after the version in 2008’s.
Oldblue’s suggestion to remove the valve cover is good advice. You need to remove it to replace the timing chain tensioner anyway.
Apparently, another change is an oil squirter that new has a bigger orifice, so it doesn’t just provide more oil to the chain, but is less prone to clogging, too.
If you find the chain to be loose, there’s a really strong case for doing a complaint chain job, especially if the car has much more that 100K miles and/or it has a poor or uncertain oil change history.
BTW my 2010 SS got a full chain job at a little over 100K, because noise did not quit at all after starting. The (new design) timing tensioner was fine, but the front guide was broken and the balance chain tensioner was not working correctly.
Due to geometry, roller chains just can’t operate very smoothly at high speed and can vibrate fiercely, especially when turning on a sprocket with a small number of teeth, as is the case with Ecotecs. The nice thing about the turbo is that you can stay away from the redline and still have fun. The newest Ecotec has an inverted tooth chain, finally!
How many miles? How good is the oil change history?
2008 has the old style timing chain tensioner. I had a 2008 2.2L that got very frequent oil changes yet did this way before 100k miles, don’t remember when. I concluded that it was probably a malfunctioning timing chain tensioner and took a chance and just replaced it with the newest design. That was a gamble because if the timing chain fails completely, the valves crash into the pistons. But it worked. I understand this tensioner was redesigned twice after the version in 2008’s.
Oldblue’s suggestion to remove the valve cover is good advice. You need to remove it to replace the timing chain tensioner anyway.
Apparently, another change is an oil squirter that new has a bigger orifice, so it doesn’t just provide more oil to the chain, but is less prone to clogging, too.
If you find the chain to be loose, there’s a really strong case for doing a complaint chain job, especially if the car has much more that 100K miles and/or it has a poor or uncertain oil change history.
BTW my 2010 SS got a full chain job at a little over 100K, because noise did not quit at all after starting. The (new design) timing tensioner was fine, but the front guide was broken and the balance chain tensioner was not working correctly.
Due to geometry, roller chains just can’t operate very smoothly at high speed and can vibrate fiercely, especially when turning on a sprocket with a small number of teeth, as is the case with Ecotecs. The nice thing about the turbo is that you can stay away from the redline and still have fun. The newest Ecotec has an inverted tooth chain, finally!
