breds2k

Hey guys, I work at a Toyota Dealership in the Call Center, our employee labor rate is $45/HR and that works out much better than paying $110/HR at GM to get my clutch done. I did have the confidence, tools or time to pull it off in the driveway.

So, I had them install a KY Stage 3 Clutch, stainless clutch line, oil change, and new OEM plugs gapped to .03, figured id just get it all done at once and it only cost me 9.1 hrs total @ $45/hr. All data calls clutch replacement 8 hrs alone so I felt that was more than reasonable.

Here's the problem. Car drives great but.......OVERHEATS! Cooling fans don't kick in, hit 245 in traffic the other day and first noticed it, shut down immediately. Thankfully as soon as I go 25+ mph its fine, due to the big grille on the HHR and my ZZP intercooler.


So, the guy I had do my clutch used to be a GM tech years ago, said hes jumped the fan, works, checked all wiring and everything is fine. There is no pulse width modulation signal coming out of the ECM tell the fans to turn on and the GM dealer will have to see the car because he doesn't have the computer to communicate with it.

Thoughts?


At first I was it must be improper/bent/broken pin connection because the ECM is removed with the fuse box when getting to the transmission. So now the pain in the ass local GM dealership which I don't know anyone at, books a week in advance. So id have to drop the car off and they would work it into the schedule whenever that might be or wait a week for an appointment. My tech's here say there is nothing more to be done with what they have.


HELP!

firemangeorge

Check the ground wires. Almost sounds like something didn't get connected back correctly during the trans. reinstall.

breds2k

All wires/fuses are checking out fine. Fan works just no signal at this time.

donbrew

You DO NOT even check the gap on OE (iridium) plugs, even touching the whisker with a probe cam screw it up.

My money is on a ground, or one of the plugs got a bent pin, or something in the fuse box.

The SS has a module on the fan housing that has been known to cause problems.

I don't know why any competent mechanic couldn't diagnose it, it does not take a Technet subscription. A good ScanTool (like the SnapOn tool) can do everything a Tech2 can do, save download and install firmware. I think he's telling you that he doesn't care enough to fix it ($110/hour might make him care). Might even have to access the Service Manual on AllData or Mitchell, that takes time.


If you turn the A/C on, the fan is supposed to turn on. Does it? That would force it on instead of overheating it.

firemangeorge

Fwiw. Plug gap on the SS is .035. Not .03 as you stated above.

(maybe you just had a typing error...I hope )

Oldblue

I'd recheck all the wiring and ground wires again as suggested above , something got missed or misplaced!

breds2k

2 tuners I have used said go .030-.032 for a gap.

I look into this more this week. 2 tech's have worked on it for a total of 3hrs diag and cant figure out it, and they are being paid full amount. My lower labor rate doesn't affect how they work.

firemangeorge

Hmm. Your post above states you used OEM plugs, which are the iridium kind. These plugs come pre-gapped at .035.
Everything I've read and heard said you should not attempt to adjust or change the gap on iridium plugs. The gap can be checked before installation, just don't try to adjust them. Exchange them if the gap is incorrect.
The electrode area of these OEM plugs are very delicate and can be damaged if you attempt to do so.

Maybe your tuners gap recommendation is for non OEM plugs that can have the gap changed.