how to remove stock bypass valve
It looks pretty straight forward to me. Remove the vacuum line then the 3 10mm bolts from the looks of it and remove it. This pic shows the bolts. Don't mind the metal DV if yours is plastic. They should bolt on the same. I am sure those who have done this can confirm or correct me if I am wrong.
As stated above. Three bolts and the vacuum hose.
Hard part is being able to reach it. If you've got skinny arms, you can get your hands back there. If not, you may have to remove the air filter box and maybe the plastic cowl cover.
A small short handle 10mm wrench will get you to 2 of the bolts OK. For the other one, I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet/socket/extension/wiggler and came in from the right strut tower area.
Not really hard at all. Just a little patience and figuring the best angle to attack it from.
Hard part is being able to reach it. If you've got skinny arms, you can get your hands back there. If not, you may have to remove the air filter box and maybe the plastic cowl cover.
A small short handle 10mm wrench will get you to 2 of the bolts OK. For the other one, I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet/socket/extension/wiggler and came in from the right strut tower area.
Not really hard at all. Just a little patience and figuring the best angle to attack it from.
This should help https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/show...s+valve+spring
Thanks to everyone! Another question though. Is anyone running a dump to atmosphere without a tune? I know I'll be running a little rich until I get a tune, but its my daily driver and would like to get all my bolt ons out of the way before spring and then tune it. Basically I'm asking if I'm going to cause any serious damage running the forge vented diverter valve for a few months?
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badassbowtie
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Nov 23, 2012 04:55 PM



