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Timing chain broken at 87k

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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 02:41 PM
  #11  
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come on CCS, lets get some support, why would a bolt break due to chain tension and why did they indicate the valve guides are worn at 87,000 miles, I've got 155,000 and no issues. and I know members here have more than that, lets see what the response is.
Old Apr 7, 2014 | 08:52 AM
  #12  
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Not entirely related, but I had a chain brake on a 93 Benz 190E at 130,000 miles. Bent 6 valves. Mechanic said the tensioner failed, he had never seen one fail that soon. (Mechanic was a German specialist for 30 years). Cost me $1800 for the repair, everyone on the Benz boards said that was cheap for what was done.

Point being- don't condemn GM for what sounds like an unusual failure. There's a lot of these engines rolling over 200,000 miles out there.

I am puzzled as to why CCS hasn't popped in yet.
Old Apr 7, 2014 | 07:11 PM
  #13  
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I was contact by CCS today. They requested to contact the dealership on my behalf which I agreed too. Stay tuned.
Old Apr 8, 2014 | 02:49 PM
  #14  
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Daily update and more stuff is bad. I'm about beat to death on this one.

Got a call from the SA. They have everything put back together and noticed the steering wheel was out of whack. She said the 'cradle' had been disturbed and they would include the alignment at no cost. Cool.

Just got another call and the camber is so far out they want to drop the struts and oblong the mounting holes to allow adjustment. $200 more. I'm sick to my stomach right now.
Old Apr 8, 2014 | 03:37 PM
  #15  
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the "cradle' wasn't disturbed. it's the normal procedure. the engine comes out from under the car - along w/ the front frame section - also known as the " engine cradle" - & yes - the suspension & steering get disconnected - so, an alignment is normal procedure. should be part of the job & not an extra expense.
112.Remove the frame bolts using the following sequence:
1.Remove the front frame bolts.
2.Remove the rear frame bolts.
113.Slowly raise the vehicle up away from the powertrain assembly.
114.Slide the lift table out from under the vehicle.
115.Attach an engine lift hoist to the engine lift hooks.
116.Remove the starter motor. Refer to Starter Removal (See: Overhaul).
117.If equipped with a automatic transaxle, remove the torque converter bolts.
Old Apr 8, 2014 | 03:54 PM
  #16  
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tech was supposed to mark where the frame was during disassembly. here is the install procedure.
12.Remove the engine lift hoist from the engine lift hooks.
13.Slide the lift table under the vehicle.
14.Slowly lower the vehicle until it aligns with the alignment marks made during the removal.
15.Install the frame bolts.
22.Connect the intermediate steering shaft
30.Install the left and right lower ball joints to the steering knuckles.
31.Install the ball joint to steering knuckle bolts and nuts.
32.Install the left and right outer tie rods to the steering knuckles
as the last step, I usally see " check alignment" , but on this engine replacement procedure , per GM, taken from Alldata, there was no mention of checking the alignment
Old Apr 8, 2014 | 06:00 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by M.Harper
Daily update and more stuff is bad. I'm about beat to death on this one.

Got a call from the SA. They have everything put back together and noticed the steering wheel was out of whack. She said the 'cradle' had been disturbed and they would include the alignment at no cost. Cool.

Just got another call and the camber is so far out they want to drop the struts and oblong the mounting holes to allow adjustment. $200 more. I'm sick to my stomach right now.
What did they say when you asked them "how did the camber get out of whack?" You basically have to have a pretty bad wreck to do that, has the car been in a bad wreck or whacked a curb real hard? Did they even look at the Lower Control Arm bushings? Camber kits cost around $20.

Either parts of the story are missing or you are getting ripped.
Old Apr 9, 2014 | 01:15 PM
  #18  
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My son bumped the back of a garbage truck at around 5 mph last May but that is all that has ever happened to the car. It drove fine afterwards. No pulling or vibration. No unusually tire wear (I watch that closely). He was following the truck thru a residential street and it stopped to pickup trash and he didn't. Crunched the grill and radiator is all. The SA recommended the fix as she said it is pulling very bad but i was not before all of this. No mention of lower bushing.

I alway feel that I get only part of truth from them. Last time I brought it in was after they replaced the MAF sensor. Got halfway home and check engine light came on. Turned right around and headed back. Asked the SA what code it threw and she said no code. Nothing was wrong. I must have been crazy and just imagined the check light went on.

Then this time with the 40% turning into $1000 copay plus 40% of anything over that. Ya think they like to keep the customer in the dark?

And CCS, so far I can't see where they have done anything on my behalf.
Old Apr 9, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #19  
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"And CCS, so far I can't see where they have done anything on my behalf."

They are the social media department. Don't expect a miracle.

I don't know why they dropped the engine to change the head or the chain. I don't know how dropping the engine could affect the camber. You will have to get somebody to take some time with you to explain everything they are doing, sometimes that is tough to do.
Old Apr 9, 2014 | 02:24 PM
  #20  
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"And CCS, so far I can't see where they have done anything on my behalf."

They emailed me and asked for my permission to contact the dealership on my behalf. Crickets since...



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