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-   SS Specific Service Issues/Repairs (https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/ss-specific-service-issues-repairs-61/)
-   -   Timing Chain Jumped Tooth (https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/ss-specific-service-issues-repairs-61/timing-chain-jumped-tooth-59807/)

1ksprint 01-05-2018 10:12 PM

I have 2008 HHR SS with turbo 2.0 with VVT and 175,000 miles with no start and checked codes and got P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor. Looked up the codes and decided it might be time to look at timing chain due to some noise on cold starts. I guess I should have replaced the cam tensioner when I first read about the startup noise.

After removing front cover, there was the left side cam guide in pieces. Finding top dead center, and making sure crank key is at 12 and the timing mark is at 5, the exhaust cam position is at 12 o'clock when the intake is at 2. The exhaust should be at 10 per the manual.

The engine turns over smoothly so I am hoping there is no internal damage.

My question is can I rotate the exhaust cam to the correct location without damaging anything after removing the timing chain?


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d710739c83.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...f31cc8dfdb.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...e2debf54b5.jpg

Just a coincidence that the original timing chain colored links came up fairly close to where they should be.

DrLoch 01-06-2018 06:33 AM

Suggestion, replace all the chains, guides and water pump while you're in there. Before you reassemble get a compression reading from all cylinders to see if you've bent any valves. You may have gotten lucky.

Oldblue 01-06-2018 07:39 AM

You can turn the camshaft to line up the teeth, be gentle now!
And X2 about both chains, all guides and the water pump, and install one of these


Even Dorman has these now
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-86802-917-954.aspx

donbrew 01-06-2018 09:21 AM

DO NOT turn the crankshaft Counter-Clockwise.

DrLoch 01-06-2018 09:36 AM


Originally Posted by donbrew (Post 836126)
DO NOT turn the crankshaft Counter-Clockwise.

That too

1ksprint 01-06-2018 12:44 PM


Originally Posted by DrLoch (Post 836128)
That too

Is the camshaft directional or can I turn it counter clockwise


Originally Posted by 1ksprint (Post 836137)
Is the camshaft directional or can I turn it counter clockwise

Also would it be better to take off top dead center and lower the pistons on each cylinder to prevent valve piston contact

Oldblue 01-06-2018 01:40 PM

Just gently move the exhaust cam in the direction to line up the timing marks.
Just be gentle and don’t go trying to Crank it a full turn .

RJ_RS_SS_350 01-06-2018 01:56 PM


Originally Posted by 1ksprint (Post 836115)

The engine turns over smoothly so I am hoping there is no internal damage.

My question is can I rotate the exhaust cam to the correct location without damaging anything after removing the timing chain?



Originally Posted by 1ksprint (Post 836137)
Is the camshaft directional or can I turn it counter clockwise

Also would it be better to take off top dead center and lower the pistons on each cylinder to prevent valve piston contact

Since you've already been turning it(unless you mean by hand, not cranking), if it were far enough off to cause damage, it would already be damaged.

Moving it off TDC, there are valves open at any given time.

Don't beat yourself up for not changing the tensioner. Your engine should have come with the new style, and even if you had put a new one in, it would have done nothing to save the guide.

Oldblue 01-06-2018 02:07 PM

Leave the crank shaft as you say it is positioned in you first post. As you stated it’s correctly in place at 5 o’clock for the timing mark.
You stated the intake cam is at 2 o’clock, leave it there.
Gently move the exhaust cam until its mark is at 10 o’clock, even if that means counter clockwise.

Never ever move the crankshaft CCW as this will allow the tensioner to compress and can cause the timing chain to skip a tooth or two.

If you haven’t ordered any chain kits yet Cloyes offers a great kit for the balance shaft/ waterpump chain includes guides, tensioner and new oil spigot.
They also have a timing chain kit, includes new tensioner and chain but no cam sprockets, you have VVT so you won’t need to change them.

1ksprint 01-06-2018 02:28 PM


Originally Posted by Oldblue (Post 836146)
Leave the crank shaft as you say it is positioned in you first post. As you stated it’s correctly in place at 5 o’clock for the timing mark.
You stated the intake cam is at 2 o’clock, leave it there.
Gently move the exhaust cam until its mark is at 10 o’clock, even if that means counter clockwise.

Never ever move the crankshaft CCW as this will allow the tensioner to compress and can cause the timing chain to skip a tooth or two.

If you haven’t ordered any chain kits yet Cloyes offers a great kit for the balance shaft/ waterpump chain includes guides, tensioner and new oil spigot.
They also have a timing chain kit, includes new tensioner and chain but no cam sprockets, you have VVT so you won’t need to change them.

Thanks after pulling the block plug to access the guide bolt, which is not there, I guess I will be removing the oil pan if I can’t sneak it out with a magnet. I used my borescope and don’t see any valve marks on the tops of the pistons. Once almost back together I will check compression and if there is a problem this HHR might become my project for installing small block v8.

aradmahogany 01-08-2018 10:04 AM

I dont mean to stray off topic, but is it true that the early production model years have different/beefier chain guides? and sometime in 2008 or so they changed them? I dont remember where I got this info from, thought I read it on here once.

Oldblue 01-08-2018 12:04 PM

You need to research more, the Ecotec engine has used the same guides, no upgrade in 2008

Blue_SS 01-11-2018 06:25 PM

when this happened to me, my chains were stretched. Tech noted that, but re-assembled the chains with new guides and tensioners. 700+ miles later, the chains jumped more than one tooth. Engine went boom. hole in oil pan for counting stars...

REPLACE BOTH CHAINS. I was at 143k miles. And, best of luck. I miss the old gal...

McB_HHR 01-12-2018 12:23 AM

I'm in the middle of this now. Had some "noise" that is resulting in chain/tensioner work. I'll ask about the water pump if the job isn't done yet.

The good news is that my Ally warranty was still valid at 140k. Woo!

Oldblue 01-12-2018 08:03 AM

Make sure they replace all of the parts not just the chain or chains.
The guides and both tensioners should be changed along with the sprockets

McB_HHR 01-15-2018 11:30 PM


Originally Posted by Oldblue (Post 836391)
Make sure they replace all of the parts not just the chain or chains.
The guides and both tensioners should be changed along with the sprockets

For archive search (and thread hijack)...

Job done. My noise was minor and not easy to hear, nor on every start so I'm glad to have it sorted. I had both actuators replaced, though approval by warranty pending on the second. Other items that may be common and cheap to do while "in there" were added such as:
*INSULATOR. Air Cleaner. Air Cleaner and Silencer. Air Cleaner Intake. Part Number: 12563914
*DUCT. Air Cleaner Intake Part Number: 15865168 ; 15210106


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