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Tools needed to remove air cleaner assembly?

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Old Sep 7, 2018 | 10:53 PM
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Tools needed to remove air cleaner assembly?

Does anyone know where to find a torx set that is short enough to fit into the absolutely tiny area that the screws are in?
I need to replace my camshaft position actuator solenoids and it's seeming that removing the air cleaner assembly is going to be the most time consuming part of the whole job!

I've tried extensions, wobbly joints, even trying to fit hex keys into the torx slot... I can't even find torx sets that are made to fit into such a shallow recess. I'm assuming that there are 90 degree torx sets similar to hex keys, but my hex keys don't even fit into such a tiny recess. I could use a pair of needle nose vise grips, but that's absolutely last resort.
Would a t-25 screwdriver be able to engage enough of the screw/bolt head to allow it to turn? Maybe taking a t-25 bit and cutting it down and using vise grips to hold it?

I'm sure someone on here has taken the box off and can shed a little insight.
Thanks!
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 11:25 PM
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No tools are needed other than a screwdriver to loosen the clamps on the throttle body side and the intake side (wooly-worm as some like to call it) - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...-filter-57663/

Details are also included in the procedure to RE and RE the solenoids - https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-...13-14-a-28779/
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 11:29 PM
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The air box on the 2.0 LNF has torx bolts holding it to the manifold. Just not sure of the correct torx tool to remove them as they are in a really tight spot.




Old Sep 7, 2018 | 11:41 PM
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Well if you had made mention it was for the 2.0 litre............... still no tools needed -
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 11:50 PM
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I didn't realize that it was easily removable after the clips were removed. Thanks for the video, it was really helpful! Though, I thought that 2.0 was implied by being posted in the SS specific forum.
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 11:55 PM
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Yeah, I didn't notice it was in the SS forum - as I just use the New Posts tool - and it leaves the forum name wayyyy off to the right side.

Those clips look like I'd drop them as they came off - and I bet they are not easy to get replacements for. Don't forget to put some grease on the mounting studs and the grommets when you put it all back together.
The grease will definitely make it much easier to take it off next time, as well as lubricate the grommets.
Old Sep 7, 2018 | 11:59 PM
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Do you happen to know if they make replacement grommets? Mine are really beat up. Alldata doesn't show them as a being replaceable part, but it's far from being 100 percent accurate.
Old Sep 8, 2018 | 12:05 AM
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According to https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/comm...-thread-48833/
the P/N = 25920906 (2.0L)

And that is the GM part number - there has been a lot of problems with people getting the right grommets - so I wouldn't swear that the number above is correct.

When I needed a replacement grommet for my 2.4L, I modified one that was for a motorcycle side cover - and it lasted till the car bit the dust.
Old Sep 8, 2018 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by whopper
According to https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/comm...-thread-48833/
the P/N = 25920906 (2.0L)

And that is the GM part number - there has been a lot of problems with people getting the right grommets - so I wouldn't swear that the number above is correct.

When I needed a replacement grommet for my 2.4L, I modified one that was for a motorcycle side cover - and it lasted till the car bit the dust.
That is the correct part number, I've ordered them myself. They should still be available. The clips really aren't needed at all, the airbox is secure without them, if the grommets are in good shape. My new grommets didn't survive the next removal of the airbox, perhaps because the 2.0 runs hotter than the 2.2/2.4. So I'll be ordering some soon.
Old Sep 8, 2018 | 01:28 PM
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Thanks for the p/n confirmation. I'll have to order some soon too. The front two shattered after removing the airbox, I pivoted the box so I didn't have to break the rear one.

BTW, those solenoids fixed my horribly rough idle. Now it's back to how it was when I first got it, still on the rougher side but completely tolerable by not trying to shake my fillings loose.

Side question, would the solenoids going bad (intake threw the code, but exhaust was more clogged) have triggered the fuel performance code p0089? To my knowledge the front fuel pump is cam driven, so it seems possible.



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