Hockey Pucks work just fine. $0.99 at most sporting goods stores.

 

That's what I use.

I tried using my floor jack on the lip where the factory jack is supposed to go, and the lip started to collapse, so I got the floor jack adapter.

 

Kinda was wondering if that would have to be done,,,

Thanks
( My manual is on the table next to my chair,, so i'm always checking it when i think of something to learn up on.)

 

This is an old thread, but what I was looking for. I used my floor jack on my wife's car yesterday and bent the lip. The last time this did not happen. I am going to have to get the jack adapter that was mentioned so I do not do damage in the future.

Does anyone know how I can bend that lip safely back? A pair of vice-grips maybe? I hate working under her car as it is so low to the ground (compared to my Silverado).

Thanks!

 

I think vice-grips should work fine.

I know what you mean about being tough to get under, I picked up a set up ramps at autozone and a couple of jack stands too. Plenty of room now.

 

Where do you put the jack stands?

 

It's good that we are all here to help each other, but use an element of caution here, even if your neighbor can offer you some good advice on the website.
But if you have to ask, maybe you shouldn't be jacking your HHR up with a floorjack.

You're dealing with the dangerous part of physics. Leverage and weight. (others are speed and impact, but that's another story).

If you are someone who owns a floorjack in the first place, you must have some element of mechanical aptitude and understanding stress points and metal fatigue should almost be of 2nd nature.

Honestly, I already rotated my tires on my SS once so far in my shop and it seemed so obvious that I really can't remember exactly where I put the floorjack or the jackstand. Same with my Caddy CTS. I just looked and did it with a careful eye if anything "moved" or became "distorted".

Yes, my doors still work fine, the gaps are still consistent and resetting the TPM was almost fun. The TPM thing was like an electronic toy game to do (it's cool when the car "blinks" to the air release and key fob).

Use caution and keep a watchful eye on the steel if you must.

 

As near to the jack points as I can.

 

Just bought "the tool". I had jacked up the rear earlier with my shiny new floor jack. Glad i didn't mess up the lip. But like 87silver said, I have mechanical experience, so I lined it up well & didn't start lifting hard until everything looked OK. It wont hurt to have the correct tool for the job though.

 

Just got home from work and had a look underneath my SS.

There is an area where the unibody seems to "meld" into a framelike structure that resembles a component of a traditional H frame or ladder chassis. This "frame" area can be identified by beveled "holes" about 1.5" in diameter in the center of each area. If I had to guess from a finger feel, it's about 12 to 14 gauge steel, closer to 14.

It is clear to me by the compound bends of the framework combined by the beveled holes that this was the place to lift the car. When I rotated my tires, this is the area that I used.

I bet that most oil change or tire shops that do not have a GM procedure manual for this (if there is such a thing) would probably do the same.