oil flow
10-22-2014, 08:26 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: 10-20-2014
Location: tennessee
Posts: 4
oil flow
Can someone explain to me the oil flow to the top of the motor on the 2006 2.2l ecotec. The engine is all sludge up. I was hardly getting any oil flow and now I'm getting oil flow to the back half but not the front. I used a bottle of sea foam the first time but I can't seem to get the front to get any oil! Thanks...how many oil passages ares in the top thanks again.
10-23-2014, 12:41 AM
#2
Deceased
Join Date: 06-30-2010
Location: Kannapolis NC
Posts: 25,739
Yikes! By the sounds of it, you have a very sick specimen on your hands. It takes a serious lack of maintenance to sludge up an engine enough to block up the oil passages. How many miles are on the engine?
I'm wracking my brain right now on how well the FSM(Factory Service Manual)details the oil passages and oil flow patterns. I'm in Chicago right now, and my manuals are in Carolina, so it'll be two or three days until I can check and post something up.
So if our Moderator donbrew has the time, maybe he can post up the info since he is rarely seperated from his FSM's.
But to be depressingly honest, I'm not sure SeaFoam will alleviate the problem. You're going to end up having to tear the engine down I'm afraid, that's the only way to do things properly and assure that the engine is de-sludged.
Plus, there is a risk to using a product like SeaFoam to clean out oil passages, you could clean out one passage only to block another, then you'll be in a bigger bind.
P.S.
to the forum!
I'm wracking my brain right now on how well the FSM(Factory Service Manual)details the oil passages and oil flow patterns. I'm in Chicago right now, and my manuals are in Carolina, so it'll be two or three days until I can check and post something up.
So if our Moderator donbrew has the time, maybe he can post up the info since he is rarely seperated from his FSM's.
But to be depressingly honest, I'm not sure SeaFoam will alleviate the problem. You're going to end up having to tear the engine down I'm afraid, that's the only way to do things properly and assure that the engine is de-sludged.
Plus, there is a risk to using a product like SeaFoam to clean out oil passages, you could clean out one passage only to block another, then you'll be in a bigger bind.
P.S.
to the forum!
10-23-2014, 05:47 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: 12-24-2007
Location: Seville. OH
Posts: 2,873
I did find this tsb that may help some.
#PIP4495D: Cylinder Head Tick Noise And/Or Damage - Possible Plugged Oil Feed Orifice - (Jan 4, 2013)
Subject:
Cylinder Head Tick Noise And/Or Damage - Possible Plugged Oil Feed Orifice
Models:
2010 Buick Allure (Canada Only)
2010-2013 Buick LaCrosse
2011-2013 Buick Regal
2012-2013 Buick Verano
2012-2013 Chevrolet Captiva Sport
2002-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier
2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt, Cobalt SS
2010-2013 Chevrolet Equinox
2006-2011 Chevrolet HHR
2008-2010 Chevrolet HHR SS
2004-2013 Chevrolet Malibu
2004-2005 Chevrolet Malibu Classic
2010-2013 GMC Terrain
2002-2004 Oldsmobile Alero
2007-2010 Pontiac G5
2006-2010 Pontiac G6
2002-2005 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire
2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)
2006-2010 Pontiac Solstice
2007-2010 Pontiac Solstice GXP
2007-2010 Saturn Aura, Aura Hybrid
2003-2007 Saturn Ion
2004-2007 Saturn Ion Redline
2001-2005 Saturn L Series
2007-2010 Saturn Sky, Sky Redline
2002-2010 Saturn Vue
2007-2010 Saturn Vue Hybrid
With any of the following engines:
2.0L Engine (RPO LHU, LNF or LSJ)
2.2L Engine (RPO L61, LAP or LE8
2.4L Engine (RPO LAF, LAT, LE5, LE9, LEA or LUK)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This PI was superseded to update recommended field. Please discard PIP4495C.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern
Some customers may complain of a loud tick/rattle noise under the hood at all operating conditions. In some cases, the noise may have started shortly after an oil change or previous internal engine repairs. During diagnosis, the technician will find that the noise is coming from the cylinder head area and believes that several/all of the valve lash adjusters (lifters) are making noise.
The cylinder head is equipped with oil feed orifice (2) that may become plugged with debris, such as excessive RTV/sealer or broken down oil filter material. If this occurs, this noise may occur as a result of no/low oil pressure to the valve train.
Recommendation/Instructions
If a major valve train noise is encountered that sounds like several/all valve lash adjusters (lifters), it is suggested to compare the lower end oil pressure to the upper end oil pressure as outlined below:
1. Check the lower end oil pressure by attaching an oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure sender port or to one of the gallery plug ports in the engine block.
2. Check the upper end oil pressure by attaching another oil pressure gauge to one of the oil gallery plug ports on the back of the cylinder head (1).
3. Start the engine and note the oil pressure gauge readings from both locations while at the same engine RPM and engine temperature.
4. Turn the engine off.
5. Compare the oil pressure readings.
5.1 If the lower end oil pressure is below SI specification, this PI does not apply so normal SI diagnosis should be followed to diagnose and repair the noise.
5.2 If the upper end oil pressure is near 0 PSI/KPA but the lower end oil pressure is within SI specification, the oil feed orifice (2) is most likely plugged with debris. Please note that it is not uncommon for the upper end oil pressure of a normally functioning engine at idle to measure as much 35% less than the bottom end oil pressure. This is due to the large amount of oil pressure bleed off that normally occurs in the valve train, combined with the small size of the oil feed orifice (2).
If you suspect a plugged oil feed orifice after performing the test above, remove the cylinder head and visually inspect the oil feed orifice (2) for debris. If debris is present, it can normally be cleaned out to repair the noise. Please note that the orifice is not available separate from the cylinder head and cannot be inspected/cleaned without cylinder head removal.
Important: To prevent future concerns, care must be taken not to use excessive amounts of engine sealant during internal engine repairs, use the proper oil filter that is listed in the parts catalog, and change the engine oil/filter according to the schedule in the owner's manual.
Notice: The oil gallery plug port threads (1) on the back of the cylinder head are M12x1.75 and it is unlikely that a related oil pressure gauge adapter will be found at a hardware or auto parts store. The 509376 Kent Moore Fitting that comes with the Engine Preluber Kit (EN-45299/J-45299) will screw into the head and may be adapted to some oil pressure gauges. Or, there are also several online retailers that can supply a fitting that will work as an adapter - the male end has to be M12x1.75 while the female end has to be 1/8"x27 NPTF so a standard oil pressure gauge hose can screw into it. It has also been found that some automotive gauge companies, such as Auto Meter, offer the necessary adapter/fitting (M12x1.75 / 1/8"x27 NPTF) for $5-$20. Some technicians have also reported success in making a temporary fitting out of an oil pressure sender body.
#PIP4495D: Cylinder Head Tick Noise And/Or Damage - Possible Plugged Oil Feed Orifice - (Jan 4, 2013)
Subject:
Cylinder Head Tick Noise And/Or Damage - Possible Plugged Oil Feed Orifice
Models:
2010 Buick Allure (Canada Only)
2010-2013 Buick LaCrosse
2011-2013 Buick Regal
2012-2013 Buick Verano
2012-2013 Chevrolet Captiva Sport
2002-2005 Chevrolet Cavalier
2005-2010 Chevrolet Cobalt, Cobalt SS
2010-2013 Chevrolet Equinox
2006-2011 Chevrolet HHR
2008-2010 Chevrolet HHR SS
2004-2013 Chevrolet Malibu
2004-2005 Chevrolet Malibu Classic
2010-2013 GMC Terrain
2002-2004 Oldsmobile Alero
2007-2010 Pontiac G5
2006-2010 Pontiac G6
2002-2005 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire
2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)
2006-2010 Pontiac Solstice
2007-2010 Pontiac Solstice GXP
2007-2010 Saturn Aura, Aura Hybrid
2003-2007 Saturn Ion
2004-2007 Saturn Ion Redline
2001-2005 Saturn L Series
2007-2010 Saturn Sky, Sky Redline
2002-2010 Saturn Vue
2007-2010 Saturn Vue Hybrid
With any of the following engines:
2.0L Engine (RPO LHU, LNF or LSJ)
2.2L Engine (RPO L61, LAP or LE8
2.4L Engine (RPO LAF, LAT, LE5, LE9, LEA or LUK)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This PI was superseded to update recommended field. Please discard PIP4495C.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern
Some customers may complain of a loud tick/rattle noise under the hood at all operating conditions. In some cases, the noise may have started shortly after an oil change or previous internal engine repairs. During diagnosis, the technician will find that the noise is coming from the cylinder head area and believes that several/all of the valve lash adjusters (lifters) are making noise.
The cylinder head is equipped with oil feed orifice (2) that may become plugged with debris, such as excessive RTV/sealer or broken down oil filter material. If this occurs, this noise may occur as a result of no/low oil pressure to the valve train.
Recommendation/Instructions
If a major valve train noise is encountered that sounds like several/all valve lash adjusters (lifters), it is suggested to compare the lower end oil pressure to the upper end oil pressure as outlined below:
1. Check the lower end oil pressure by attaching an oil pressure gauge to the oil pressure sender port or to one of the gallery plug ports in the engine block.
2. Check the upper end oil pressure by attaching another oil pressure gauge to one of the oil gallery plug ports on the back of the cylinder head (1).
3. Start the engine and note the oil pressure gauge readings from both locations while at the same engine RPM and engine temperature.
4. Turn the engine off.
5. Compare the oil pressure readings.
5.1 If the lower end oil pressure is below SI specification, this PI does not apply so normal SI diagnosis should be followed to diagnose and repair the noise.
5.2 If the upper end oil pressure is near 0 PSI/KPA but the lower end oil pressure is within SI specification, the oil feed orifice (2) is most likely plugged with debris. Please note that it is not uncommon for the upper end oil pressure of a normally functioning engine at idle to measure as much 35% less than the bottom end oil pressure. This is due to the large amount of oil pressure bleed off that normally occurs in the valve train, combined with the small size of the oil feed orifice (2).
If you suspect a plugged oil feed orifice after performing the test above, remove the cylinder head and visually inspect the oil feed orifice (2) for debris. If debris is present, it can normally be cleaned out to repair the noise. Please note that the orifice is not available separate from the cylinder head and cannot be inspected/cleaned without cylinder head removal.
Important: To prevent future concerns, care must be taken not to use excessive amounts of engine sealant during internal engine repairs, use the proper oil filter that is listed in the parts catalog, and change the engine oil/filter according to the schedule in the owner's manual.
Notice: The oil gallery plug port threads (1) on the back of the cylinder head are M12x1.75 and it is unlikely that a related oil pressure gauge adapter will be found at a hardware or auto parts store. The 509376 Kent Moore Fitting that comes with the Engine Preluber Kit (EN-45299/J-45299) will screw into the head and may be adapted to some oil pressure gauges. Or, there are also several online retailers that can supply a fitting that will work as an adapter - the male end has to be M12x1.75 while the female end has to be 1/8"x27 NPTF so a standard oil pressure gauge hose can screw into it. It has also been found that some automotive gauge companies, such as Auto Meter, offer the necessary adapter/fitting (M12x1.75 / 1/8"x27 NPTF) for $5-$20. Some technicians have also reported success in making a temporary fitting out of an oil pressure sender body.
10-23-2014, 10:06 AM
#5
Join Date: 10-20-2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4
Oil is applied under pressure to the crankshaft, connecting rods, balance shaft assembly, camshaft bearing surfaces, valve lash adjusters and timing chain hydraulic tensioner. All other moving parts are lubricated by gravity flow or splash. Oil enters the gerotor type oil pump through a fixed inlet screen. The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft. The oil pump body is within the engine front cover. The pressurized oil from the pump passes through the oil filter. The oil filter is located on the right (front) side of the engine block. The oil filter is housed in a casting that is integrated with the engine block. The oil filter is a disposable cartridge type. A by-pass valve in the filter cap allows continuous oil flow in case the oil filter should become restricted. Oil then enters the gallery where it is distributed to the balance shafts, crankshaft, camshafts and camshaft timing chain oiler nozzle. The connecting rod bearings are oiled by constant oil flow passages through the crankshaft connecting the main journals to the rod journals. A groove around each upper main bearing furnishes oil to the drilled crankshaft passages. The pressurized oil passes through the cylinder head restrictor orifice into the cylinder head and then into each camshaft feed gallery. Cast passages feed each hydraulic element adjuster and drilled passages feed each camshaft bearing surface. An engine oil pressure switch or sensor is installed at the end. Oil returns to the oil pan through passages cast into the cylinder head. The timing chain lubrication drains directly into the oil pan.
Thanks donbrew!
Thanks donbrew!
Last edited by SholtC; 10-23-2014 at 11:42 AM.
10-23-2014, 11:17 AM
#6
Technical Moderator
Join Date: 01-23-2009
Location: Fredericksburg, Virginia
Posts: 24,694
Upload it to your gallery here, then paste the bb code into your post.
Top left of the title bar "gallery". I'm on my stupid phone right now, use the search phrase "how to upload and post pictures".
Top left of the title bar "gallery". I'm on my stupid phone right now, use the search phrase "how to upload and post pictures".
10-24-2014, 11:58 PM
#8
Platinum Member
Join Date: 04-09-2006
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 7,032
I've never used it before, but maybe some of the other old-timers might know: would an engine flush help in a situation like that, or would that be looking for more trouble with the "crud" floating around into other areas that it shouldn't?? (Like what 843de mentioned in regards to Seafoam - I've never used Seafoam either))
10-25-2014, 12:15 AM
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: 10-20-2014
Location: tennessee
Posts: 4
oil change
The first oil change I did after seafoam there was a lot of chunks of oil in the oil pan after drained. Ran another can and changed the oil again a little bit more came out. Ran a dr. Medic flush? Though it and drained it again..no debris this time but still not getting oil to the back right corner lifter areas. Put 2 brand new lifters in that back right corner and still no oil.