Dj Miller

So, about 4 months ago I bought a 2009 Chevy HHR LT 2.4 with 156000 for $1700. There was a very faint hum when driving but as this was the first HHR I've owned, I didn't think anything of it, maybe it was tire noise. As the time went on, the noise grew into a deafening roar that could be felt in the steering wheel, gas pedal and seat. I am somewhat mechanically inclined and was able to narrow it down to one of the front wheel hubs. As I researched how to find which it was, ultimately came to the conclusion to change both, considering the age and milage. I did so, with practically no trouble at all. The most trouble I ran into was getting jack stands. I even replaced the axle nuts for both. I ensured hub bolts we torqued to 85ft.lbs. and the axle nut was 155ft.lbs.
I took the car for a test drive and the roar was now a whisper. But, a different issue not noticed before arose. Now there is a small wobble or shaking in the front end, I believe at the drivers side wheel area. Best I can tell it doesn't start until around 40mph. And it isn't constant. It'll wobble/shake for a few seconds then fade out and after about the same few seconds it fades back in, so on and so on. I live and work in a small town with highest speed limit reaching 45. The shaking reminds me of an unbalanced tire but it isn't constant, it fades in and out every few seconds, consistently. Since I bought it I have only had to repair both rear shocks. I don't know if the problem was always there and didn't notice due to wheel hubs being bad or not but I love this car and want to keep it running. Please help.

donbrew

Do this:

Dj Miller

It's hard to say for sure from the video if that's it, though it's with a shot. Now, I hadn't noticed if the car lurches forward when bringing it to a stop but I can say for sure that when you're driving a cruise speed and hit the brakes to come to a stop or even just slow down, pressing the brake doesn't influence the wobble in any way except that it doesn't do it anymore when the vehicle is stopped. And it doesn't wait for hitting the brakes to wobble the steering wheel.
But, I am going to do the little test he performed by pushing backwards on the wheel to see if I have any try results because frankly, when I noticed the issue I wasn't looking for the other signs. So when I get off work this evening I am going to try the moving tests and then the other when I get home. I will update with results after. If you or anyone else has another suggesting, I'll hear any that y'all have to give. Thank you for the suggestion, I am definitely going to follow this one.

Oldblue

DJ , welcome to the site, X2, it’s the LCA’s! Change both, get aluminum one’s not the stamped steel, Moog or AC Delco.

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Dj Miller

I raised the car and put it on jack stands. I removed the tires and on the inside wall of the passenger tire is a lump about the size of a golf ball sticking out about 2 inches from the tread. Could that be causing the problem? I am getting that tire replaced either way tomorrow I am just wondering before I drop$200 on the LCA's.

donbrew

A bit of testing will save you angst.

Oldblue

Change bulged tire, test drive, if noise is gone, don’t order LCA’s.
If noise remains, order LCA’s

Dj Miller

I know doing the tests helps eliminate a lot of headache. I work 6 days a week and
all day and so on Sundays when I get all my honey do list and other housework done, I am trying to squeeze that in too. I have 8yr old twin girls who want me to themselves on Sundays and they aren't afraid to get down in the dirt with me to work, I just don't like them around raised cars (I've had my right ring finger ripped off from a falling jack). So I'm trying to get as much information as possible how I can. I searched all over the internet and this forum before I ultimately created this thread to ask about it. I really appreciate everyone's information. I have been thinking about getting the most likely to fail components of the front end replaced, preventative maintenance, and get it over with. I can do all the work myself except for anything that requires pressing bearings. Would that just be better? And if so, which components should I replace? I'm trying to only do the ones most likely to fail and dangerously fail. I will look through the forum again to get idea of the ones most mentioned failing by members. Thanks again

Oldblue

You can just remove the rear lca bushing and press new ones in with a ball joint clamp press , most parts palaces rent them .


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donbrew

OK, pay for unneeded repairs if you can't spare the minute it takes to attempt rolling a tire. Your time is awfully expensive. But, you have the time and money to throw parts at the car.

I don't get it, maybe it makes sense to you.