Alignment question
#11
There was another thread on this and I mentioned......
Most shops will align within spec (be sure the shop has GM's most recent spec.'s and not just what the machine is programmed to, for the HHR). IF you have a really good alignment guy he can straighten the pull. According to several different people, the alignment could be in spec and still pull to the left. The alignment needs to be "tweaked" between the setting on the front to eliminate the pull/drift.
I had it on mine....from 2 different alignment shops (one was the dealer that did it before a vacation). I took it to my Corvette people, they indicated the problem and set it perfect.
Most shops will align within spec (be sure the shop has GM's most recent spec.'s and not just what the machine is programmed to, for the HHR). IF you have a really good alignment guy he can straighten the pull. According to several different people, the alignment could be in spec and still pull to the left. The alignment needs to be "tweaked" between the setting on the front to eliminate the pull/drift.
I had it on mine....from 2 different alignment shops (one was the dealer that did it before a vacation). I took it to my Corvette people, they indicated the problem and set it perfect.
#13
There are two schools of thought on HHR alignments, the first is that since "toe" is the only thing that's normally set on the front end, a 2 wheel alignment is OK.
The other school of thought is that a 4 wheel alignment is better in case of the front and rear getting out of line, what we used to call a "thrust alignment" on rear wheel drive cars and trucks.
The rear toe is adjustable with shims, and unless you've really nailed a pothole, its not too likely to get knocked out of spec...but it can happen.
Since you changed out the front springs, there is a change in the basic geometry of the front suspension, so I'd ask of they checked the camber against the specs. You might need to go with "camber kits" on each front corner if the springs and revised ride height have changed the geometry enough to take it out of spec.
I'd take to the shop and have them check it again with special attention on whether they just checked the front toe, instead of looking at the camber too.
The other school of thought is that a 4 wheel alignment is better in case of the front and rear getting out of line, what we used to call a "thrust alignment" on rear wheel drive cars and trucks.
The rear toe is adjustable with shims, and unless you've really nailed a pothole, its not too likely to get knocked out of spec...but it can happen.
Since you changed out the front springs, there is a change in the basic geometry of the front suspension, so I'd ask of they checked the camber against the specs. You might need to go with "camber kits" on each front corner if the springs and revised ride height have changed the geometry enough to take it out of spec.
I'd take to the shop and have them check it again with special attention on whether they just checked the front toe, instead of looking at the camber too.
#14
I did not want to start another thread so here it goes .. Had to replace tie rod ends and lower control arms due to tire wear up front . So had alignment 4 wheels and the front are perfect the rear driver side was in spec but passenger was a neg 17 degree ok I know they use shims but I am wondering if it is the wheel bearing is bad ? I here no noise and is quit in the back and they are the ome bearing in the back close to 200000 miles on them .. I Do remember my wife back into a parking block damage the rim on that side ... So on that thought what would be the best possible thing too do .. Thanks
Seventeen (17) would be huge and have an easily visible lean just looking at it.
It would almost certainly point to a damaged axle assembly.
If it was that bad, I'm sure the alignment folks would have pointed out the reason.
#15
Are you sure that's not 1.7 (1 point 7) degrees ?
Seventeen (17) would be huge and have an easily visible lean just looking at it.
It would almost certainly point to a damaged axle assembly.
If it was that bad, I'm sure the alignment folks would have pointed out the reason.
Seventeen (17) would be huge and have an easily visible lean just looking at it.
It would almost certainly point to a damaged axle assembly.
If it was that bad, I'm sure the alignment folks would have pointed out the reason.
#16
Once again, you're using a wrong number. We're talking degrees. A .17 would be, well, next to nothing, and well within specs.
Here. Take a look at the alignment specs. If you don't understand how to read them, then just leave it up to your alignment shop.
Believe me. If anything was out of spec., I'm SURE the alignment shop would try to sell you on a fix. That's how they make money.
Here. Take a look at the alignment specs. If you don't understand how to read them, then just leave it up to your alignment shop.
Believe me. If anything was out of spec., I'm SURE the alignment shop would try to sell you on a fix. That's how they make money.
#17
Thanks George I understand now and yes it is .17 total toe and the specs are .03 to .28 degrees so anywhere outside of the range then there is a problem .. The only reason for concern was the number was in red is which threw me off on the alignment sheet .. But thanks for schooling me
#18
Sorry, I misunderstood since now for the 1st time you say it's the toe on the rear wheels. I just assumed we were talking camber.
Here's some specs from my last alignment:
Left rear toe: 0.18 degrees
Right rear toe: 0.14 degrees
Total toe : 0.32 degrees
These toe specs show up green on my sheet.
Here's some specs from my last alignment:
Left rear toe: 0.18 degrees
Right rear toe: 0.14 degrees
Total toe : 0.32 degrees
These toe specs show up green on my sheet.