2.0L Performance Tech 260hp (235hp auto) Turbocharged SS tuner version. 260 lb-ft of torque

Correct hook up Tial Q BOV

Old Feb 27, 2011 | 01:18 PM
  #1  
HHRSSouth's Avatar
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Correct hook up Tial Q BOV

Thought I would post this here in case any future HHR SS members decide to go the BOV route. This is for a Tial Q and may or may not be the same for other BOV's.

Here are the 2 ways way I had my BOV (VTA), only 1 way would work for me. I DO NOT have a MAF relocate.

Correct way (without MAF relocate)
1. Block off plate for the BPV on the turbo or a turbo that doesn't have a BPV.
Use the line on the vaccum block (In top of the intake manifold) that is pointed toward the passenger side its the one you want to use as the signal line for the BOV (the line that went to your PBV).


Initially I hooked up my Tial Q BOV with 8 psi spring and hooked it straight to manifold vacuum (do not). This is a no no, as the 8 psi spring will not keep the BOV shut at idle with it hooked to the Manifold directly.

Incorrect (unless you have a MAF relocate to tune)
2. Use the correct Tial Q BOV spring in correlation with the vacuum your car has, which is the unpainted/silver spring (for the LNF) for the Tial Q and hook it straight up to manifold vacuum. Now your BOV will stay shut at idle.
But there is a problem with this set up, you NEED a MAF relocate. Reason being is the BOV will not react fast enough without popping a code P0101. MAF out of its effeciency range.


I originally tried/ran #2 with BOV 8 psi spring, 11 psi spring and then finally 10 psi spring (lightest you can use with #2 to keep the BOV shut at idle). We could not tune the BOV at all, its just to slow to react. Need MAF relocate and re-tune.
The VTA is loud with this set up, good luck get it working properly without MAF relocate.

#1 is the correct way to run a Tial Q BOV (VTA), you get to use a lighter 8 psi spring, which makes for a much faster reaction time, the solenoid can be controlled via tuning and no P0101 code.
VTA event is pretty quiet, you can hear it on mild revs, but if your reving the engine out you won't hear it.
After hooking the car up this way, I have not had 1 single code pop and car drives awesome wit the BNR K04-GT2871.
Old Feb 27, 2011 | 11:21 PM
  #2  
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From: Hayward, Ca.
HHR-SS: When are we to expect some hard numbers on H.P. and torque, to see if going down that road with your setup, is both doable, and practical?
I personally am very intrested in the final outcome of this project. "Moon"
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 07:07 AM
  #3  
HHRSSouth's Avatar
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When ever I have the extra money for some dyno time. I still have a clutch that needs put in.

Its not a matter if I've gained any power, its a matter of how much I gained over the old set up. I've definetly gained alot in the mid and upper power band. I would just like a dyno to see the power curve.

Luckily when I dyno'd the first time, I dyno'd the GMS1 tune and Trifecta tune. I would like to go back to the same dyno for a comparison.
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 07:21 AM
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Thats the way mineis hooked up. Blockoff plate and the line straight to the BOV
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 10:24 PM
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hhrssouth. i can get you some dyno time in montgomery if you want it.
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 03:27 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by bodywerks
hhrssouth. i can get you some dyno time in montgomery if you want it.
I might take you up on that, my wife is going down to Montgomery to be on a comittee for the Board of Education at the end of March.
She was just saying last night how she wishes I could go. So let me talk with her and see whats up.
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 03:41 PM
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I google map search South Duh and I couldn't find that town
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