black Tara

If you remember my detonation problems I was having.. It gave up the codes. it turns out that everything is pointing to the DI fuel pump so it was running out of gas under a load and now has got even worse. Ordered the part from ZZP
It doesn't look like it would be to hard to replace myself. but it requires to much other electrical tools that I don't have.
to many safety factors because of the high pressure and to many other things that need to be checked in the process.
So as soon as I get the part from ZZP, to the dealership it goes.
Have you guys seen this cool tool for detonation problems very smart tool check it out. If you have a tune to your SS turbo, it could save your engines life. Some times the stock knock sensor gets tuned out some how I have heard. I know mine didn't seem to be working exactly like it was designed to do, this tool is a huge upgrade anyway
http://tunertools.com/gizzmo-electro...ert-light.html

kornellred

Are you certain that the dealership is willing to install critical parts that they did not source?

black Tara

Yes I'm sure, I have a good relationship with my chevy dealership.
They installed the new motor I got from ZZP, they installed the upgraded Intercooler I got from ZZP.
They installed the intercooler charge pipe from ZZP. They installed the oil filter I use from K&N. They know that my car has been modified and my car calls for stronger high performance parts. And they know that their parts are very high so if I can beat their price they know I can save money. Also I bring them a lot of business, my family has stuff done all the time. like oil changes , warranty work. Bought new cars from them. So yes their very cool about it.

jmule

I have done research on this system. There is nothing on it that is really that complicated or dangerous, if it done right. A good way to bleed all pressure off the system is to pull the pump relay and start the engine. Run it until it stalls and will not restart. Then the HP pump can be safely removed.

Dbeluscak

Tim,

You are lucky to have a kind dealer. Unfortunately, I do not. Since I've installed the new engine. I've got about 60 miles on it! But I took it over to the dealer to have them look at my DIC. Its like reading a novel with all the service codes! SER ESC, SER TRAC, SER AIR BAG, SER PWR STEERING... can't even access the regular info at all. My dealer "has to flash to factory before they'll even look", NICE! (Sorry, side tracked there a sec)

Anyway, it's great you have a nice dealer. However, doing the HP pump is very easy. 2 bolts(13mm), 2 fuel lines(17mm I think), and no electrical tools required (it is mechanical). You can pull the pump relay as jmule said. Then there is also a bleeder valve just to the left of the pump, after it stalls be sure it's depressurized by pushing in the bleeder with a small screwdriver.

If you want I can shoot you some detailed pics in the morning. I still have the ol gen 2 in the garage.

black Tara

I know I looked at it doesn't look to hard and after I install it How will I know that i'm getting the right pressure? but if you have the time and want to walk me through it so I don't blow myself up. lol
My concern is relieving it of fuel pressure before I take it off and knowing the pressure is with in specs.
I don't want to put you out! are you sure you have the time?
Tim

black Tara

Don't forget the ecu still thinks the old motor is there. and with all the modifications that the new motor has I don't think a reflash is going to do you that much good. your going to do some tuning. Maybe you could send the ecu to ZZP tell them all the things that you modified, and while your at it they can do a tune for you as well. Just a thought?

DrLoch

Since you already have the High pressure pump coming you can try that first, you have nothing to lose at this point. As far as tuning out the knock sensors, responsible tuners don't do that. The knock sensor is there for a very valuable reason, to pull timing if the motor does knock. Sometimes you can get what is called false knock but is generally caused by something else which can be mechanical. With an LNF you can pull or reduce the timing too much which will cause it to knock more/worse.

Less face it you have a lot invested, and continue to invest more, my suggestion is to get HPTuners and log it. That is a sure way to figure out what is going on. With the correct scanning config file you will be able to see what is going on. Standard version will work fine for you with your car. I'm not a HPTuners sales person, I use it with all the cars and truck that I have. It's an invaluable tool for me. In your case you can log and monitor your fuel pressure in real time to know if that indeed is the issue.

How do you know that it isn't the in tank pump not being able to keep up with the DI pump? You are guessing and throwing money and parts at what you think is the issue without knowing the real cause.

If you do go the HPTuners route I can help you with a config file to monitor the fuel pressure among other things.

As I have said in a past post, stop hammering on it until you figure out the problem or your going to really hurt it. I believe you said you are boosting ~25 PSI, correct? Does your engine have the forged piston upgrade?

I have broken a lot of engines over the years and in most cases I have learned from my mistakes. Education is expensive.... very expensive.

Dbeluscak

I sent my ECU and TCU out to ZZP. I'm tuned for everything. It's got to be dirty connections or something of that nature. Without a tech2 it'll be a needle in a haystack. They instantly said there's NO WAY to even look with a factory reflash. Yeah, I don't think so. And I'd have to leave it, not something I'm comfortable with. Haven't even got 100 miles on it yet. All I need is some gm tech having fun with my hard work. I think not!

I'm heading out to the garage so I'll get those pics up real soon. As far as getting a fuel pressure reading, it can be done but not easily(very easy with HP!) I have temporary gauges all over the engine. You would need a 5000psi gauge and would have to T it in right before the fuel rail. In order to do that you would need replace the fuel line with 2 temporary lines.

X2, I couldn't agree more. When it comes to tuning, safety first! We have a ton invested (I know have the cost of my car under the hood now, hence Overboard!) I'm selling my 78 c10 because I want HP tuners running live on an in-dash windows 10 PC. Putting my laptop in the pass seat was just not "cool" enough.

I'll charge up my phone and get you some pics uploaded here Tim. I'd seriously consider HP tuners, it will make everything much easier. And you know your keeping the SS for a while!

firemangeorge

OP has a 2010 SS.
2010 has the RPD unit.
RPD has a high side fuel pressure gauge.

Just saying. May not be able to data log it, but he can at least do a visual on his high side fuel pressure readings while driving.