Well that's fancy! If it's on the RPD you should be able to view it with a cheap scanner too (well I could've) instead of my elaborate mechanical gauge setup. I trust mine, no puters to deal with.

 

I have ScanXL Pro on my laptop, which does monitor the high pressure PID from the ECM. The cost for the software and the interface cable was about $130. It works great.

 

I couldn't agree more! if I had the Hp tuner and had someone to kind of walk me through it so I could familurize myself with it. I would love that. I love to tinker with my car and that would be the ultimate.
DRLOCK I had them do a test on the pump in the tank it came back ok, but that test is still limited.
I also get a lot of advise from ZZP tuners and they said that it sounds like it is the DI pump. But can't argue with your logic.

 

They did not re install the fuse box correctly and/or they did not get all of the grounds re connected.

 

By "they", that would be all me. Done everything so far. In the process of chasing wires out now. I'll keep you guys updated. Think I've solved ABS/TRAC/and ESC because they are all the same circuit.

@Tim,
I have the photos just need to upload tomorrow!

 

Hey Tim, rather than posting a long set of instructions here. I just made a How-To! That way anyone who needs to can easily replace there DI fuel pump. The whole job will probably take less than an hour. So if you want to save some bucks toward HP Tuners, give it a shot.

http://https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/how-tutorial-library-21/replacing-direct-injection-di-fuel-pump-54230/

 

Changed the DI fuel pump. That wasn't it Still running lean.. Pulled into my garage after it started running bad and the turbo exhaust was glowing red hot!! Maybe 25lbs of boost is to much for it. Cause it is steal running lean " Glowing exhaust!" I Just pulled this of the internet, makes a lot of sense to me?


Dialing up the boost pressure is a quick and easy way to increase power in any turbo engine – up to a point. The stock fuel injectors in many diesel engines can safely handle higher boost pressures but that’s usually not the case with gasoline engines.
The flow capacity of the stock injectors in a gas engine can quickly max out if turbo boost is increased more than a few pounds beyond stock levels. This may cause the fuel mixture to go dangerously lean, resulting in detonation, melted pistons or a blown head gasket. To prevent such a disaster from happening, the flow rate of the injectors have to be matched to the boost pressure and airflow delivered by the turbo. Consequently, if you want to dial up the boost pressure for more power, you’re going to need a set of higher flow injectors.
In gasoline engines, more octane is also needed as boost pressures go up. The engine’s knock sensor can back off timing and boost pressure if detonation is detected, but that also kills performance. Most turbo engines recommend premium fuel because the higher octane helps the air/fuel mixture resist detonation. Premium pump gas is usually only available with octane ratings of 91 or 93, so higher octane racing gas or alcohol (methanol or ethanol) may be needed if turbo boost pressures are increased beyond stock.
The bottom end of most turbo engines is strong enough to handle a moderate increase in boost pressure over stock. But for a real killer street or race engine that’s running lots of boost, stronger pistons, connecting rods and crankshaft are probably going to be a must.
Also to be on the safe side i'm running 100 octane unleaded so no detonation but feel on its face and of course the glowing exhaust.

 

I'm at work but I'm going to try and toss some ideas around. My first one is as always. HP Tuners. We need to know what is going on in there. I certainly hope that your knock sensors haven't been tuned out. 25 lbs is a lot of boost, but not more than our fuel injectors can handle.

You need to check for vacuum leaks, they will cause an engine to run lean in no time. But not to the point of glowing exhaust. You are on a fine line there my friend. The car shouldn't ever EVER get that hot. And yes glowing red exhaust will raise you engine temp because right under your turbo is the water pump and coolant flows through that 1.5" pipe right below it. Just downstream a few inches is your thermostat. So high engine temps would be "normal" what temp were you getting?

 

I'm at work but I'll try and help diagnose from here. I had thrown the CE P2187 -too lean bank 1. I figured it was a dirty MAF from my new KN filter. I traced out all my vacuum lines just to be sure I'm not getting any extra air into the mixture. I found a broken nipple on the bypass valve solenoid cleared my CEL right away(on the intake right next to the MAP sensor) it's got 3 lines. I'm not sure how you're turbo is setup. The ZFR kit is pretty much a bolt on I think. So you have another solenoid mounted to it I assume. It's the boost control solenoid and it has 3 lines as well.

Ok so I'm trying to figure out your setup from your signature. That's a LOT of acronyms! I can see you have zzp upper charge piping and intercooler. Do you have the lower charge as well? Is your MAF still located on your airbox? Mine was relocated to the lower charge tube for more accurate readings.
Do you still have a catalytic converter?

Let's get this figured out. If you could list all your mods real quick that would help. And unfortunately it doesn't sound simple. Unless it's your tune, and if you trust your tuner we'll avoid that for now.

 

Tomorrow Im having the stock tune put back on. If that fixes it I'll know, if it doesn't then the search begins. When the dealership put my upper intercooler charge pipe in, that's when if memory serves me right, that's when it started. that's were I will start if the reflash doesn't fix it. think is there some vacume lines that they could have mixed up?
I'm not driving it until I get this fixed. Oh also I'm not really sure now that I think about it if it was the turbo exhaust or the actual turbo that was glowing? The temp. got to about 214,15