Yeah there are places on mine too that have less than an inch clearance, thats why I am putting on the TTR engine mount, hopefully that will reduce it.
Its hard to tell what parts will have clearance issues unless you see the engine under load. Ive seen an LNF on a dyno with stock mounts and its hard to imagine it not hitting something. Looks like the valve cover moves a couple inches under engine rotation.

 

If you don't hold it back it will hit it again. there are lots of choices, this is what my dealer made. Been a couple years now.

 

Great point ss
When I had my kit installed I brought in the two above pictures you have and told the dealer to add the same so thanks again for that

I believe it was hyper v6 who originally mentioned that there dealer moved intercooler forward which I just did so thanks for that one hyper and as I mentioned thanks to a few others.otherwise I would probably be looking from the outside in driving something else saying I wish I could have kept my hhr

 

The TTR mount is such a great product...

It's also great, in taming Torque-Steer....

Street manners are so much improved too...

Throttle response is awesome, & instant...

Power goes to the road, instead of twisting the engine...

1.78 60' time at the track, because of this mount...

Gets better, with age, some vibrations when new, mostly disappear after one year...

Prevents damage, caused by stock mount, as 'bigjacksauto', just found out...

Pics of hood & intake rub, from launching at the 'green', with the stock mount, at the dragstrip...

 

Looking at the bracket on SS fan's car, it seems that the Tmap and wiring is still very close to the compressor. Not much room for error when the engine torques and rotates.
Mine seems to have a lot more clearance with the bracket setup I made. I know that everyone is not gonna agree with what is the best way to do this. But, I think you really need 1 1/2"-2" clearance to eliminate any contact or rubbing.

Attachment 14944

 

well bad news for me looks like the P101 code will be haunting me soon this is about the fifth day of driving and no problems it even went through its second car wash at delta sonic but unfortunately after about an hours worth of driving on an off driving along in about 55 miles an hour it seemed to buck or misfire quickly then no boost available.
I was data logging at the time with my torque app running.
This was About 30 minutes after car wash.
Pulled tmap harness and tape off looked great no sign of moisture and PlastIdip looked great.
Cleaned MAF disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes.
put back together seemed ok backed out of driveway and it stuttered and shut off limped it back in my garage.
I guess its possible it got hit again or moisture or was it a flook
Could someone look at my data log if so please email or I'm me and I will try and send it.
Getting drag/street car ready for track now.
This code and running rough is getting old

 

Well I was trying to figure a way of turning the sensor 180 degrees then i finally said I will just put the new harness in that I bought from CED
started right up cleared the pending code.
drove for about 30 minutes seemed to run its best in a long time.
Came back pulled apart the old harness it appeared that the plastidip did a great job of isolating the wires.
Just not sure how the old harness could be the issue.

 

Well just an update and looking for some help
car ran great all last week after taping up lower tmap harness that was broken
Friday afternoon car started to run poorly again.
P101 and P106.
Keyed off ran ok for a little bit.
Got it home put in new lower TMAP harness adapter from Crate Engine Depot.
car sat about 4hours before I drove it ran great Friday night.
Saturday
and even Sunday on a trip that was one hour up and one hour down.

This morning ran fine and actually started to die on the highway had to pull over car was barely running keyed off and seemed better but still not exactly right.
I noticed the second car started running rough it was still commanding 14.08
but was measuring close to 21 plus
I have it all data logged. I can probably attach a screen shot here or I can email the whole log to someone. I can bring to dealer but at this point it is an on off thing but getting worse just dont want to get stranded.

Any ideas would be great
Tried different MAF seems to be having the same issues.
are we possibly looking at a bad TMAP sensor or bad O2 sensor or is it time for me to give up on this car. I cannot tell you how many hours I have wasted
trying to diagnos this issue.
Dealer just says bring back when it is happening or when you think it will happen.
Time for another dealer maybe?
I am guessing one of you tuning experts can figure this out.

Having trouble uploading Log and or screenshot but I can email them if someone could help me out

 

Had mine in several times in late '08. Tech was just confounded. Ran their mobile plug-in reader when I drove anywhere for a week. They checked "all" sensors. Found 1 defective, changed it, ran well ,then it went again. Other sensor went defective. Changed it. Been fine since. Ask them to check all of the sensors under the hood. Some techs want the easy route. GL M8.

 

Agree...
You can only do so much.
It's time to let the dealer figure this one out.
They have the proper test equipment, & resources.

Def sounds like a 'flakey' sensor, or ECM.
Water, &/or wire 'shorting issues, WILL degrade sensors.

O2 sensors can become 'flakey', & alot of guys just 'swap' them
out, after so many miles, or every two years.

Also bad gas, or someone putting something in your gas, used to
be a problem decades ago, not so much anymore.
Could you have mistakenly put 'leaded' race fuel, in the SS ?