all good questions
but no I definentley did not add any race gas
just been running the same gas from the same stations I get my gas from for my other cars.
93 octane 10% ethanol.
I have the file in Microsoft excel document

I did notice one other odd thing is that the car was running at like 200 and by the time I pulled over and it was running rough it was down to 186 degrees
I have never seen that car cool down that quick.

 

I'm thinking that you have an injector failing.
DI injectors fail in an 'open' position'.
So, if an injector is 'sticking' open, lots of fuel, with the O2 sensor 'seeing' it.
Also STFT seeing fuel too, & maxing out, in your log...
Water temp dropping, as lots of fuel has a 'cooling' effect...

But, you had said that you were having misfire codes for all cylinders,
could there be a sensor, or the ECM, 'telling' all the injectors, to go super rich ??

 

opps...

my bad...

Instantly going lean, +30
What sensor would tell the ECM to go instantly lean ??

 

So, does this mean that the O2 is 'flakey', going instantly lean, causing the STFT to instantly to +30, which means telling the injectors go full on to cure the 'lean' reading of the
'flakey' O2 sensor ??
Which would cause the water temps to go down because of the cooling effect of
the fuel dump' ??
His LTFT didn't have time change as quickly, in the log ??

 

I think you hit the nail on the head here. Shorting out these sensitive sensors can damage the ECM as well as the sensor itself.

 

I did purchase an extended bumper to bumper warranty
called dealer again asked if they could check sensors etc.
dealer pretty much said if car is brought in and when they get to it that day if the car is not running bad on the test drive then nothing they can do especially on a warranty issue.
looks like I have to wait till it does it all the time or I am wasting my time since the car does not do this everyday as of yet
if it was a bad ecm shouldnt it be throwing a code for that
not just the p106 and p101

 

I think this might be it. The front O2 sensor has the ability to do this. The rear one is essentially just compared to the front one to check on the cat's performance. The front one, though, is used to set fueling and other values for the engine itself. If it's shorting out, I don't know what it would do, but these symptoms might be possible. I would think it would also throw it's own code, though. Hmmm.

 

So this is the front one that failed the test?

 

Made up a better boost leak* checker and after spraying some soapy mixture on the pipes i did find what may be considered a minor or more* towards* a good size leak.
* On hot side pipe where it is crimped together from the factory where it goes from hard plastic to rubber.
will this cause this mess that I have been dealing with?

 

Quick update
Changed upper and lower tmap sensors which are much cheaper than the stock ones at least
Flipped tmap sensor 180 degrees
changed plugs even though they appeared to be in great shape I am glad that I got them out now at 60k.
Tmaps looked like the yellow part was bigger than the new ones going in.
I figured I would be throwing a code by now but car has been running great besides
throwing a couple of fan codes which I believe I have figured out.
i thought with the boost leak it would still be throwing codes