I saw a few Cold Air Intakes that you could buy. Some of them were not really cold Air at all. If you take air from the engine compartment it is hotter than the factory setup that gets air from the fenderwell. I did try a temporary under hood intake and I got a check engine light because the temp differential was not what the computer liked.

I saw a member who used the fog light grill for the air inlet. I really liked this. I went a different way to "pipe" the air in. I bought a 3" flexible air tube and all the associated parts from Spectre Performance which is a division of K & N.

I used a belt sander to open up the grille pattern on the passenger side fog light grill. Carefully removing plastic material until I had a nice opening.

I ran the 3" tubing through the existing hole in the fenderwell. I then used various parts and pieces from Spectre to complete the system. If anyone would like a list of the part numbers I will dig them up and share them. I bought a number of parts and used about half of them. Wish I could return the "failed experiment" parts!

It ended up very similar to a system offered for a Cobalt that picks up Air in the same area.

It fits well in the fender area and I did have to slightly trim the inner plastic fender panel. The tire clears just fine. I am going to fabricate a "trapdoor" so I can access the air filter easier.

Let me know what you guys think.

 

Looks good, but I would sure watch out for large puddles of water.

 

I agree with the puddles. You might try to use a K&N dry charger filter wrap. I had the same thought as you about the heat, but I routed my air hoses to my grille, and since I have an LT, I still have an air box. I have a dry charger wrap in mine, just in case, but I may be worried about water more with where your filter is located. But it looks good, and hopefully the butt dyno tells you it's working

 

Looks good. Very nice installation.

The bad news is it's not going to improve the cold air abilities of a stock setup. The factory airbox is a very good design. I've compared the inlet temps and ambient temps on my stock airbox/piping. They are usually within a couple of degrees of each other. For me, the stock box setup can't really be improved upon.
In your case, with your mods, that cold air setup may help out.

 

J W, Don't you know, It never rains in Southern California...LOL
I do agree. I will see what happens when it gets wet.

Hey Fireman, I totally agree that this won't be any better or colder than the factory box.
I just thought that the stock one is ugly and hides my red powder painted valve cover!. I do have an iNTAKE AIR GAUGE from Glowshift. I have one sensor in the hose before the intercooler and one in the hose after the intercooler. I also have a sensor in the tube just after the air filter. When I flip a switch it will read the air filter sensor. I want to verify that it's operating accurately before I can see what the temps say.

Suki, I think I will invest in a dry wrap. Thanks for the advice. I can't tell a power difference but at least now you can see my valve cover! BYW..I have a really great cat named Suki. She is small and feisty!

 

GM left the air filter at the carb and just used the dryer hoses to bring in the fresh air from the headlights on the Olds 442






Then under the bumper for the W30 package

 

Wish I had one of those cars!

 

Yeah, hard to find parts, not very great handling, poor brakes.
I had a 64 and a 70, wow at today's fuel prices I couldn't afford to fill it up

 

The last Olds I had was a 72 Cutlass with the Hurst option package. Weird car because it was a regular Cutlass S and not a 442 Hurst. It had a 350 4bbl, the dual gate shifter, Tic-Tock-Tach, and Ram Air hood. No spoiler. All were documented factory installed options.
Had to get rid of the ram air breather when I stuck in a 69 455 that I built for it. The aluminum intake and Carter AFB sat too high for the breather assembly to be put back on.
It looked like this (not mine)