Well, port 1 is stock, port 2 has about 6-7' of hose and a catch can added. Cylinder 4 does have cylinder wall/ring wear causing more blow-by.

I really can't be sure yet that the filler cap is bad. I should check the added hoses for any low spots that may allow fluid to accumulate. I also want to do more testing on the filler cap. I should probably do another leak down test to see if any cylinders have gotten worse since the last test.

 

Oh, ok. Maybe I should have followed better. Then maybe you do have too much blow by. It would be nice if you could put a tee in line and do a pressure check. That would answer a lot.

What boost are you running?

 

Better yet a gauge on the port 1 not teed. Leave the rest the same.

 

I could probably do that. I would need someone to do the same on a healthy engine to compare. It's the stock tune, about 14-15 PSI max.

I did more testing on the cap, then took it apart. https://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/ss-s...65/#post815243

 

I would be interested in your results of the leakdown tests. My guess is that the blowby had something to do with what you were seeing especially if you had a restriction in the line feeding the turbo inlet.

 

When I put the filler cap back together and installed it, I also changed the oil and filter, and drained the collection tanks. I hadn't driven it that much, so I was surprised when fluid drained out of each tank! Almost an ounce from the turbo side and just over an ounce from the intake side!

Approaching 200 miles on the reassembled filler cap, and not even a hint of vapors escaping! Driven at all different levels of boost, I'm very encouraged so far.

 

Good to hear RJ! You're results are encouraging. I'm in a bit of a pickle with the wife's SS. We drove it here from OH, roughly 1600 miles in 2 days. My catch cans, which were temporary (empty boxes basically) had a little in them. Not nearly enough for the mileage. She drove it for about a week around town (less than 20 miles).

She started it up last week and it was blowing oil out the exhaust and burning it as well...so I pulled the cans, charge pipes, and air filter. Everything had puddles in it. Rented a compression tester to check there first. With only 7,000 miles on the LDK I certainly hope it isn't rings. From the looks of things, I'm going to assume the worst. For there to be raw oil coming from the exhaust, things don't look good.

The car can't be driven anyway because the snow started flying and it's more of a snowplow around here. So the wife stole my new truck!

I basically have 2 plans;

1. The compression checks out good. I'm going to build 1 catch can and install a 12v vacuum pump. Eliminating the valve cover-turbo connection and connecting the intake manifold pcv through the single can.

2. I find low compression on 1 or more cylinders. The engine comes back out (for the...can't remember how many times) replace pistons with forged Weisco's. And add head studs. Probably port and polish (head, intake, exhaust) powder coat the block, and ceramic coat internals (because if it's apart why not!) Finally I'll finish the install with step 1 anyway. I don't like the turbo sucking oil from the valve cover. There's lots of room to sneak a vacuum pump under the hood.

I have the next 5 days off so I'll report back in a few. Wish me luck, honestly I hope to take the motor out anyway. We can't turn up the boost until I get forged pistons. And again, WHY NOT!

 

Glad to see your getting somewhere on your system.

 

Sorry to hear that Dan. If the oil is puddled up in the charge piping, sounds like it might be your turbo is going. Would that be better news than bad rings?

 

No, not really. When I purchased the new LDK from ZZP I got a new Bullseye256 turbo with it. I that hadn't even crossed my mind with 7000 miles. We went to the track once and left the boost all the way down. Only running 18-20lbs. The guys I tuned are running more from their stock turbos! I had the same issue when I drove without a pcv valve for a day from the center of VC to CAI.

I'll check for end-play today. It felt fine when I spun it by hand. The head studs and pistons only cost around 700. At least double for a new turbo...

Question: I don't really feel like slapping it back together to bring it up to operating temp. Since I'm looking for a ring issue, I think I could just get away with testing it cold, if I have a bad cylinder I would think it will show a difference. The readings might all be low, but if they're about equal I think the rings should be okay.
- What do you guys think?