I believe it did make it into a vehicle, a Cobalt SS, but, it was not run very long. The paint is still on the edge of the rings, which means the rings had not set to the bore yet.

The motor is in pieces right now. Yes I'm making some adjustments to the ports among other things. The casting flashing was not cleaned off very well if at all in some areas. Some of the areas of concern for me were the oil drain back holes. needed to have the casting flash removed and the holes opened up. Once I get the head done I will get the chamber and valves ceramic coated and have oil shedding applied in the valve area.

I'm also changing the pistons and rods, once I get the new ones and get everything balanced I will have the piston tops ceramic coated and oil shedding put on the crank, rods, lower case, oil pan..... anything that has oil flowing over it.

 

Can't wait Doc! I've been tinkering with the Gen 2 head for my HHR. It's tempting to take the SS motor apart and put on the fully ported head. Like I said before, I don't think the wife will belive it's routine maintenance! If I went that far I'd be right where you are and going with forged internals. Just not practical for my budget. My main goals are the pcv system, a true cold air intake, and getting tuned. I can't wait to start tuning. I'm a pretty serious nerd when it comes to data, once I get my hands on HPT it's going to be hard not to live in the garage! I'm hoping through tuning I can keep 22-23 lbs boost and hold it. With its canned ZZP tune the boost is just too much for stock internals. I could easily peg 30 lbs and that spells disaster...

 

Yea the stock pistons and rods won't take 30 lbs of boost, infact they won't take much more than 24 before things start going bad. There has also been a lot talk about the LNF ring gap in that the factory end gap is to tight which causes the rings to butt which breaks the ring lands and at the very least causes the 1st ring not to seal in the bore.... not trying to make you 2nd guess some of your oiling issues..... just something to think about.

I will check the end gap on the factory rings versus what I will be using with the new pistons and let you know what I find.

 

1. Have had it installed about 3 months
2. Don't know (Will drain and measure this weekend)
3. Yes, bought an Ebay "special" and installed the gut's from a dollar store for parts.

 

Doc
Your going to have "oil shedding" applied, what process is that? Use to paint parts with Rustoleum paint to do the same thing (Yeah I know old school stuff).
Also would like to see how the ceramic coating will hold up to the parts you want coated with the chamber heat that will be generated.

 

The oil shedding is another form of ceramic coating. There are many different types each with unique properties and uses. As far as heat goes, it doesn't get any better for keeping temps in or out. Most ceramic coatings are cured near 800*.

I know a bit when it comes to performance applications. What doc is trying to do is get the oil returned to the pan as quickly as possible without sticking around on critical parts. There are even ceramics designed to decrease bearing friction. With a cured thickness less than. 010" it can be used on cranks, rods, pistons, ect.

If you've seen Doc's 94 impala SS you'll know he doesn't take performance lightly. I can't wait to see what he comes up with for his HHR. I can only hope to keep up!

 

Dan
Does the LNF have a windage tray?
Or a scrapper of some type?
Do you feel the oil system is high volume and needs to be shed?

 

The LNF does not Have any sort of windage tray or scrapper. It does have oil squirters that sprays oil towards the bottom of the piston. It's directed toward holes that are drilled into a chamber of sorts. My guess is that during casting there is a cast in pocket below the dome, oil is sprayed at that hole/pocket to keep the piston head cooler.



That being said there is a lot of oil mist in the crankcase area, the oil shedding coatings will help prevent any oil from sticking to any surfaces that it is applied too. I.E. Rods, crank, lower crank cradle, oil pan....

 

What is your gain besides quicker oil return to the pan?
Possibly quicker RPM reponce?

 

On my DIRT engines( 468 c.i. BBC ) I would coat the oil area of the block, the rods, the lifter valley, the rocker area of the heads with Glyptal, it promoted the oil to run back to the oil sump faster, it also kept the oil cleaner, as it didn't pick up anything from the raw castings.





Some may say no don't do it but if Smokey Yunick did it then it's fine for me!!

Don't tell that to Smokey Yunick. He pioneered painting the insides of engines. Seems he made so much power doing it they wrote a rule against it. A properly cleaned engine that is painted with glyptol will NOT flake the paint off. Glyptol was designed for high heat conditions.