tomw

sbmike,
Well it has been 2 months now since you installed the Stage kit at Sport Chevrolet.
How is Gas mileage and are you still real happy with it??
I had mine in there yesterday(Sport) to do the Brake fix and a couple other things and I ask Mike Temple about it.......He said they didn't like the Kit that it was a pain to install and that they should have a dedicated wiring harness for the kit so they don't have to do splicing.

harleysshhr

I would recommend that only a good mechanic install this kit. It is a pretty simple kit. It is nothing more than 2 Bosch sensors and 2 wiring connectors that have to be spliced. Simple instructions are included with the kit. That is where the simplicity ends! Keep in mind you are only splicing the connectors, not rewiring them. So if you don't solder them properly and then shrink wrap them, you will eventually end up with fault codes and other related problems resulting in additional costs and repairs.Secondly, the installation instuctions don't take in account for the engine being in the car. <LOL> You need hands the size of a three year old and magician's mirrors to get close enough to get to the bottom sensor. Thirdly, the sensor's mounting holes are not the same spread as the ones on the engine creating still another dilemma. You have to install the sensor without the bushing sleeves. Not a big deal, but is does cost $650 retail from the dealer. It is not supposed to be JC whitney!!I purchased the upgrade wholesale for $560 and installed it myself. Then had to have the ECM reprogrammed at the dealer for $75.00. The kit comes with a download security code on the face of the instructions so that the dealer can access the needed computer reflash program from GM for your exact vehicle by VIN from GM Performance Division. Knowing what I know now, I would have purchased it retail from the dealer and had them install it for their price. Too much hassle for so little gain.Now, with all that said, IT IS BADASS!! I have an Automatic with the performance gauge option---It will give you a snap turbo boost of 25 pds and a steady 20+ pds. The torque will stay with you until you let up. A steady push of acceleration up to 100+ MPH. I have not been able to get the horsepower to register more than 260 with the automatic transmission. I have not had it dyno-ed yet. That will be tale of the tape (HP). I changed the tires on my SS the day I took delivery of the car. My front tires are 265/35ZR18 Dunlops and they can tame the beast with minimal tire spin. One day I put the original Michelin 225/45ZR18's with the factory wheels back on for shizits and giggles--Uncontrollable wheel spin from a hole shot. NO traction, no fun, no tread left either. I recommend a size change with the install. Remember, this upgrade is GM and the vehicle warranty stays intact.

87silver

Not an advocate of compression connectors (crimps), but keep in mind that an idiot burning wire together does not necessarily constitute a good solder connection. Poor heat transfer at the time the flux, then solder is applied will result in the conductors separating at some point. Do it your self or watch the tech closely if you choose this route.

I have not seen this in cars, but have encountered it specifically with mission-critical critical HVAC cooling systems.

millerrdjr

"My front tires are 265/35ZR18 Dunlops"
Does this mean your rear tires are something else?
Will the Dunlops fit with the oem wheels?
Any clearance problems with the Dunlops?
What kind of Harley do you ride? Mine's a '96 Road King.
Your HHR SS looks great!

More_Torque_More_HP

Do not remove the bushing sleeves. It is not necessary and they help maintain the torque required (more so on the Solstice/Sky in aluminum but still should be used on the HHR). The directions are clear because of the slight mismatch in hole spacing on the sensors the directions tell you if you can not start the bolt (most cases you will be able to), to slightly tip the sensor to start the bolt and then drive the bolt to the required torque. The sensor will then be install flat and correctly.

More_Torque_More_HP

The crimps in the kit are designed to flow and seal with a heat gun after they are crimped in place.

87silver

If this is the case, (and indeed it may be) I would assume that the J-38125 terminal repair kit is equipped with a heat gun? Then those pushing solder connections may be trying to solve an issue that is not relevant unless the connection were done improperly in the first place (without the required J-38125 tooling). It may be a workmanship issue that varies dealer to dealer rather than a general proceedure issue.

Thoughts ChevyMgr?

87silver

Check this out. This article implies that the same connectors used with the ST 1 kits are used for restraint system repairs. They require a heat method to properly work. Those who have had problems with the "crimps" not providing a good connection may have had the tech use a common crimp tool and not following the proper proceedure.

As per this article:
When the connectors are heated, they shrink over the wire and make an air-tight seal that protects the connection from the environment. Although these connectors were initially designed for repairing restraint system wiring, because of their superior performance, they are now the recommended splice by GM for all wiring repairs.
http://www.i-car.com/html_pages/tech...5/103105.shtml