Stage 1 problems :(
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 05-06-2010
Posts: 77
From: MD
Stage 1 problems :(
Well, the dealership had installed 4 or 5 of these kits before so i was hoping it would go well.
Well i take it for a spin and when you floor it, it downshifts for a SPLIT SECOND and then there is zero boost and the car falls on it's face like it's in safe mode. Hell even if i'm driving normal and hit it a tad to downshift and get up a hill it bogs and does it.
The tech reflashed it AGAIN, checked all wires and it's doing it still.
They said drive it around and drop it off in the morning if it's doing it again since it's now closing time for them.
2008 HHR SS Auto, Stage 1 is the only upgrade i have.
Any ideas?
Well i take it for a spin and when you floor it, it downshifts for a SPLIT SECOND and then there is zero boost and the car falls on it's face like it's in safe mode. Hell even if i'm driving normal and hit it a tad to downshift and get up a hill it bogs and does it.
The tech reflashed it AGAIN, checked all wires and it's doing it still.
They said drive it around and drop it off in the morning if it's doing it again since it's now closing time for them.
2008 HHR SS Auto, Stage 1 is the only upgrade i have.
Any ideas?
Senior Member
Joined: 07-05-2008
Posts: 5,464
From: Akron Ohio
If this happens when you step down hard and the boost hits then drops the lower T map may be hitting the AC.
If the engine is under a load the engine torques back and lifts the intake tub in the lower front of the engine. This pulls the tube up and back and if there is not enough space it will make contact and pop the blow off valve and drop the boost. Or Stumble as you note.
They either need to move the intake tube onto the intercooler more to move it forward a little or they need to remove the front bumper and shim the intercooler forward 1/8-1/14 inch. Fender washers are recomended.
Not all SS do this but it has happend on a few. You do not need much clearance as a 1/8 fender washer fixed mine.
If it is hitting the AC it will not throw a code just drop boost. The T map is a Bosch from a Alfa Romeo. GM used it since it could be made to fit. If they had to make one from the ground up it would have added much to the kit price to the point I would guess it may have never been made. That T map is at a 90 degree vs the stock one that went straight up.
Since this is part of th 5 year 100,000 mile warranty they should be able to claim this under warranty and not charge you anything more. My dealer did and even gave me a loaner for the day.
Note if you are on the gas hard and not putting a load on the car the boost will climb like normal as the engine is not torquing back as it is under a load and will gain boost. But a down shift or have low speed load will let the boost hit 8-9 PSI then drop to 0. It will then comeback up as long as you drive it normal.
I had the same issue and the dealer had fits as everything looks normal on the rack and only happens under a load. I kind of figured it out and then had GMPD confim it. They gove me several things to do to fix it.
The fender washers on the IC fix was given to me and the dealer by GMPD group who know this kit not the regular on techs at GM.
It drove me crazy till we figured this out as it would go a little then nothing then take off again. No codes or other visible issues.
I often wonder as the engine mounts start to wear if this will become more of an issue as the SS age. People who never had this may get this issue if the mounts get more give and the engine moves up more under acceleration.
If the engine is under a load the engine torques back and lifts the intake tub in the lower front of the engine. This pulls the tube up and back and if there is not enough space it will make contact and pop the blow off valve and drop the boost. Or Stumble as you note.
They either need to move the intake tube onto the intercooler more to move it forward a little or they need to remove the front bumper and shim the intercooler forward 1/8-1/14 inch. Fender washers are recomended.
Not all SS do this but it has happend on a few. You do not need much clearance as a 1/8 fender washer fixed mine.
If it is hitting the AC it will not throw a code just drop boost. The T map is a Bosch from a Alfa Romeo. GM used it since it could be made to fit. If they had to make one from the ground up it would have added much to the kit price to the point I would guess it may have never been made. That T map is at a 90 degree vs the stock one that went straight up.
Since this is part of th 5 year 100,000 mile warranty they should be able to claim this under warranty and not charge you anything more. My dealer did and even gave me a loaner for the day.
Note if you are on the gas hard and not putting a load on the car the boost will climb like normal as the engine is not torquing back as it is under a load and will gain boost. But a down shift or have low speed load will let the boost hit 8-9 PSI then drop to 0. It will then comeback up as long as you drive it normal.
I had the same issue and the dealer had fits as everything looks normal on the rack and only happens under a load. I kind of figured it out and then had GMPD confim it. They gove me several things to do to fix it.
The fender washers on the IC fix was given to me and the dealer by GMPD group who know this kit not the regular on techs at GM.
It drove me crazy till we figured this out as it would go a little then nothing then take off again. No codes or other visible issues.
I often wonder as the engine mounts start to wear if this will become more of an issue as the SS age. People who never had this may get this issue if the mounts get more give and the engine moves up more under acceleration.
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Joined: 11-23-2007
Posts: 8,210
From: Texas
Senior Member
Joined: 11-15-2008
Posts: 1,599
From: Newburgh, NY
I took this to my local service dept when I had mine installed and they thanked me for it. The tips are toward the bottom of the web page. This was May of '09 though. I'm sure that more have been under the knife since then.
http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2...grade-kit.html
Also, see figure 10 in the instruction sheet for the upgrade. Perhaps the TMAP is not flush on the duct, which is sometimes the case.
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/products...structions.pdf
http://www.sandyblogs.com/techlink/2...grade-kit.html
Also, see figure 10 in the instruction sheet for the upgrade. Perhaps the TMAP is not flush on the duct, which is sometimes the case.
http://www.gmpartshouse.com/products...structions.pdf
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: 05-06-2010
Posts: 77
From: MD
It has 25k on it and i can boost it fine anywhere from 50 and up and it pulls hard.
Below that, it falls on it's face
So pretty much ask the tech to check if the TMAP is hitting the ac and if so shim out the IC or make sure the correct air pump or no air pump flash is in the ECU?
Below that, it falls on it's face
So pretty much ask the tech to check if the TMAP is hitting the ac and if so shim out the IC or make sure the correct air pump or no air pump flash is in the ECU?