cj krause

i have put 3 m62s on HHRs
2-2.2's and a 2.4 white SS Panel made from a 2.4. he has a TVS on it now

as to install there are some issues w the kit
i bought a 10000 mile s/c off a wrecked cobalt lsj

the intake and water pump fit w no issues cept the intake needs 3 longer bolts and the pulleys will need to be moved. cut off a tab of metal on the engine. lil things
the intake gasket has to have a hole put in it at the top for the top bypass

heat exchanger
i used a CX RAcing dual pass one w tabs. the tabs had to be bent slightly to fit between bumper and frame. the 2 inside bolts had to be removed and outside ones loosened till you could fit it between. once hole is covered tighten the outside bolts and drill a inside hole for bolt and tighten
run the hoses one on each side and add a 1/4 spacer large nut to keep off radiator
you had to trim the lower hole to around an 1/8 inch to keep off the heat exchanger
nothing else needed

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Heat-Exchanger-Air-to-Water-Intercooler-Cobalt-Mustang-/250846927774?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a67a45b9e&vxp=mtr
use the ford cobra blue 39 lb injectors made by Bosch. they are plug and play and nothing needed to use them. 59 lbs on our fuel rail and will support to the 2.9 pulley
http://www.ebay.com/sch/6000/i.html?...ssories&_rdc=2

you will need to make a custom CAI that i put behind the headlight to get out of the heat cause the s/c really makes allot of heat
i used a 3 inch cobra head silicone 90 for the intake and used it right off. there is wiring adjustments and swapping and the wiring harness from zzp will work

i had a 2.5 magnaflow exhaust, long tube headers and a CGS muffler so pretty free flowing. 18 inch resonator too for the tone

i was running a 2.9 pulley but a 2.4 especially can take down to a 3.1. the stock pulley will get you around 8 lbs and it is 10whp per lb

the hose routing was fun and i did a dual waterflow w the extra nipple to make it flow as much as possible

i could do a 82 ft 2 wheel burnout just stepping on the gas w that lil HHR. i got 256 whp and 313 wtq at 3600 rpms. the guys doing the dyno just had no clue on an automatic on how to do a dyno tune

i had to cut a rib off the belt and just used a single edge razor, easy to do
i did not put the lsj water hose on it and i put a filler cap there to make it easier and used the wiper tank as overflow tank. i got the tank from autozone and used the small one and it fits like a champ

wide band afrs are suggested to tune so you really dial it in. you will need a boost gauge and most of the time you are running -10 to -20 lbs

i used a 1 step colder plug i got from OReillys that week. NGK had the only lsj one step colder plug

for suspension i had SS front struts and goldline springs to make it all work

you will need a tune and take a couple days to dial it in. keep the heat out, keep the air flowing and just have fun
once you go boosted and especially the screaming of the s/c it is hard to look back