Supercharging 2009 HHR 2.2L VVT
We did some more testing with the VVT timing curve. If it is straightened out- like one would do with a VVT V8, the motor actually suffers with loss of performance, misfire in low RPM, and poor fuel economy. GM really did a nice job with the VVT table in the programming. There is no performance gained by messing with this table. On to the next step- Wideband installation along with ZZP Long Tube header. CAT pipe, 3" all the way back.
ZZ Performance DOT com
Stainless HHR Catback Exhaust ZZ-HHRCB-3A-15
Option 1: 3"
Option 2: Bolts to Automatic LE5 downpipe
Option 3: No Resonator
Option 4: Standard Magnaflow muffler
1 $439.99
ZZP Long Tube Header Package ZZ-LTHDRP-AC-3-O2W
Option 1: Automatic
Option 2: With Cat for 3" ZZP Catback
Option 3: Add extra O2 bung for wideband
1 $594.99
ZZ Performance DOT com
Stainless HHR Catback Exhaust ZZ-HHRCB-3A-15
Option 1: 3"
Option 2: Bolts to Automatic LE5 downpipe
Option 3: No Resonator
Option 4: Standard Magnaflow muffler
1 $439.99
ZZP Long Tube Header Package ZZ-LTHDRP-AC-3-O2W
Option 1: Automatic
Option 2: With Cat for 3" ZZP Catback
Option 3: Add extra O2 bung for wideband
1 $594.99
Sorry for the delay everyone. The supercharger business has been extremely busy this year. Customer cars and or supercharger rebuilds come before any of our own cars.
Here is the start of the project today. Look for more to get done before the end of the day!
Installation of ZZP Full length header, cat pipe, and 3' tail pipe with no resonator.
Parts required:
Tools required: skunk piss (WD-40), 15mm socket and ratchet, hacksaw, impact, 13mm deep socket, torque wrench, 13/16 O2 wrench, anti-sieze, screwdriver, c-clamp, lift or a jack on driver's side rear with safety jack.
Remove 2 cat back nuts just after catalytic converter. Remove 2 rear muffler rubber grommets and progress towards front of car removing 2 more. Cut tailpipe just in front of rear axle where it is straight and flat. This is an easy spot to weld and or reassemble should the pipe be usable on another car. Slide out muffler assembly from axle.
Install muffler by attaching to grommets. Install 2 curved bent pipes over axle with band clamps. Leave band clamps loose so that it can be adjusted. Do not install cat-back just yet.
I am not sure what is up with the pictures, but if you right click and 'open in new tab', it works. Maybe someone can chime in. I am too busy to troubleshoot this right now.

Remove air filter box by loosing two hose clamps, remove air filter bracket (2 bolts), remove exhaust heat shield (3 bolts), unhook 02 sensor wires and remove out of heat shield, remove 10 exhaust manifold nuts. Slide manifold all the way down to allow removal of catalytic converter from exhaust manifold (3 bolts), remove exhaust manifold from car out the top. Remove both O2 sensors- note which O2 sensor was closest to the header. Make sure exhaust gasket is removed from cylinder head. Clean up exhaust manifold with parts cleaner.

Install both O2 sensors- don't forget to put anti-seize in the threads and locate the correct sensor to the correct locations in the new pipes. Install the exhaust gasket onto the cylinder head studs- black side facing out. Install long tube header from the top. Install all 10 nuts and torque to 9ft lbs. Start in the center and work outward. Install CAT pipe and band clamp. Use a long Clamp to pre-clamp band clamp into place and start the nut. Install CAT back pipe and gasket. Don't forget to put anti-seize on all of the band clamps and bolts. Tighten and align the exhaust. Hook up O2 wires and wire tie any out of the way. Test for noises.
Comments: Over all good kit with quality construction. No modifications were necessary and everything bolted right up. Very loud drone at highway speeds. I will be ordering the resonator pipe to see if this helps. If it does not, I will be cutting the muffler off and installing a 3" 3 chamber muffler.
Here is the start of the project today. Look for more to get done before the end of the day!
Installation of ZZP Full length header, cat pipe, and 3' tail pipe with no resonator.
Parts required:
Stainless HHR Catback Exhaust ZZ-HHRCB-3A-15
Option 1: 3"
Option 2: Bolts to Automatic LE5 downpipe
Option 3: No Resonator
Option 4: Standard Magnaflow muffler
1 $439.99
ZZP Long Tube Header Package ZZ-LTHDRP-AC-3-O2W
Option 1: Automatic
Option 2: With Cat for 3" ZZP Catback
Option 3: Add extra O2 bung for wideband
1 $594.99
1 GM Exhaust Gasket Part # 12622668 $11.30
Removal and installation time: 2.5 hoursOption 1: 3"
Option 2: Bolts to Automatic LE5 downpipe
Option 3: No Resonator
Option 4: Standard Magnaflow muffler
1 $439.99
ZZP Long Tube Header Package ZZ-LTHDRP-AC-3-O2W
Option 1: Automatic
Option 2: With Cat for 3" ZZP Catback
Option 3: Add extra O2 bung for wideband
1 $594.99
1 GM Exhaust Gasket Part # 12622668 $11.30
Tools required: skunk piss (WD-40), 15mm socket and ratchet, hacksaw, impact, 13mm deep socket, torque wrench, 13/16 O2 wrench, anti-sieze, screwdriver, c-clamp, lift or a jack on driver's side rear with safety jack.
Remove 2 cat back nuts just after catalytic converter. Remove 2 rear muffler rubber grommets and progress towards front of car removing 2 more. Cut tailpipe just in front of rear axle where it is straight and flat. This is an easy spot to weld and or reassemble should the pipe be usable on another car. Slide out muffler assembly from axle.
Install muffler by attaching to grommets. Install 2 curved bent pipes over axle with band clamps. Leave band clamps loose so that it can be adjusted. Do not install cat-back just yet.
I am not sure what is up with the pictures, but if you right click and 'open in new tab', it works. Maybe someone can chime in. I am too busy to troubleshoot this right now.
Remove air filter box by loosing two hose clamps, remove air filter bracket (2 bolts), remove exhaust heat shield (3 bolts), unhook 02 sensor wires and remove out of heat shield, remove 10 exhaust manifold nuts. Slide manifold all the way down to allow removal of catalytic converter from exhaust manifold (3 bolts), remove exhaust manifold from car out the top. Remove both O2 sensors- note which O2 sensor was closest to the header. Make sure exhaust gasket is removed from cylinder head. Clean up exhaust manifold with parts cleaner.
Install both O2 sensors- don't forget to put anti-seize in the threads and locate the correct sensor to the correct locations in the new pipes. Install the exhaust gasket onto the cylinder head studs- black side facing out. Install long tube header from the top. Install all 10 nuts and torque to 9ft lbs. Start in the center and work outward. Install CAT pipe and band clamp. Use a long Clamp to pre-clamp band clamp into place and start the nut. Install CAT back pipe and gasket. Don't forget to put anti-seize on all of the band clamps and bolts. Tighten and align the exhaust. Hook up O2 wires and wire tie any out of the way. Test for noises.
Comments: Over all good kit with quality construction. No modifications were necessary and everything bolted right up. Very loud drone at highway speeds. I will be ordering the resonator pipe to see if this helps. If it does not, I will be cutting the muffler off and installing a 3" 3 chamber muffler.
Last edited by Jon Bond; Mar 30, 2013 at 04:33 PM.
Sorry for the delay. I now have installed the full length header, cat, resonator, and muffler from ZZP. They hit me up for another $190 for the resonator section. It is a full stainless 24 inch version and well constructed. The drone is gone completely. I only hear the car running when under throttle. This means when under throttle to scale a hill, you can hear the exhaust, but not a drone. It sounds like an small engine airplane flying past overhead and it is low enough to handle cell phone calls to.
I did have to clearance the pipe just over the axle where the exhaust hanger is welded to the chassis. It had a tendency to vibrate against it on cold mornings. I could not go the other direction with it as it would hit the gas tank. I also had to heat the driver's side muffler strap and bend it to the correct angle to keep it from hitting the frame as well. All in all, I am very satisfied with the $1,000 plus purchase. Time to add the supercharger!
I did have to clearance the pipe just over the axle where the exhaust hanger is welded to the chassis. It had a tendency to vibrate against it on cold mornings. I could not go the other direction with it as it would hit the gas tank. I also had to heat the driver's side muffler strap and bend it to the correct angle to keep it from hitting the frame as well. All in all, I am very satisfied with the $1,000 plus purchase. Time to add the supercharger!
Just wondering since you seem to know a lot on the subject of superchargers, where would I tee in a vacuum line for a boost/vacuum gauge? I installed one and teed into the line from the manifold where it meets the bypass valve and the gauge doesn't read boost only vacuum. Thanks,
Michael
Michael
Pressure side only- any place after the discharge. To be specific, the intercooler manifold has one that should be between the supercharger and the head. You can find this between the supercharger and head- down in the valley - towards center. Hope these directions helped.
Pressure side only- any place after the discharge. To be specific, the intercooler manifold has one that should be between the supercharger and the head. You can find this between the supercharger and head- down in the valley - towards center. Hope these directions helped.


